Cooey 840 barrels interchangable?

triggerman42

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Are the cooey 840 barrels interchangable between gauges? I have bought an 840 barrel berfore and had to fit it to a reciever ( removed a wee bit of material with a dremel from the lug, a bit at a time + kept checking till it locked up tight + completely) . But this was done to a 12 gauge barrel to fit a different 12 gauge reciever.
I would like to know if the 16 + 20 gauge barrels could also be made to fit on my 12 gauge frame?
Or are the frames (recievers) for the different gauges all slightly different dimensions?
I would assume the .410 is on a smaller frame ?
I understand that sometimes there is shimming needed to take up the slack if there is loosenes.
But the one barrel I have fitted so far, was tight as described earlier , and that is the extent of my model 84 fittings so far.
I stumbled across a picture on the internet that got me thinking this way. It showed an 840 reciever in a fitted wooden case , with 3 barrels of different gauges included in the case. Each barrel had it's own forstock .
There seems to be lots of old beater cooeys + parts guns around. Sounded like fun to me !
 
The barrels are not interchangeable. Sometimes they can be fitted. A Dremel might not be the best tool to fit the lug to the locking bolt. There are better ways to fit a flat surface.
 
Well , a dremel may not be the best tool, but that's what I used , with a barrel type sanding attachment + light grit abrasive tube. It worked fine for me + the gun locks up rock solid + tight as a drum. We're not talking about removing ALOT of material here. And yes . I realize they have to be fitted. I thought I covered that. My question was about barrel compatability between gauges.
You'r saying they are not interchangeable. Thanks for your relpy.
 
I agree that the barrels are NOT directly interchangeable. A dremel tool will certainly remove metal to make some barrels fit other actions. However by using a hand tool the semi-circle on the locking tab attached to the barrel will NOT be ground evenly to fit the pivot pin in the action. It may seem to be tight to start with but it will likely only be touching on a few high spots and a small amount of shooting may "pound "those high spots down until the action is loose. I would suggest that if material had to be removed I would suggest a reamer in a holding jig should be used. To have this done by a gunsmith with the proper tools would likely cost more than the 840 is worth.
 
The barrels are not interchangeable. Sometimes they can be fitted. A Dremel might not be the best tool to fit the lug to the locking bolt. There are better ways to fit a flat surface.
To the OP- Tiriaq has quite a bit of experience repairing all types of firearms.
Good advice above.
 
Yes , he certainly seems very knowledgeable. I just used what tools I had available to me. I'm sure he's right , and once again ,thanks for the responces.
 
I agree that the barrels are NOT directly interchangeable. A dremel tool will certainly remove metal to make some barrels fit other actions. However by using a hand tool the semi-circle on the locking tab attached to the barrel will NOT be ground evenly to fit the pivot pin in the action. It may seem to be tight to start with but it will likely only be touching on a few high spots and a small amount of shooting may "pound "those high spots down until the action is loose. I would suggest that if material had to be removed I would suggest a reamer in a holding jig should be used. To have this done by a gunsmith with the proper tools would likely cost more than the 840 is worth.

Only if you dont blacken the area's being filed to see where they are touching. How do you think the good gunsmiths re fit barrels to shotguns. They use files hammers and steel chissles. When filing you take small ammounts and then blacken thw area and fit it on the gun to see where it is touching and where it isnt. And you make it fit properly by hand. A dremmel is really not the right tool for the job. The uncontrollable.
 
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