Reloading 38 Special Question

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Hey guys whats up!

I have a question about loading 38 special. Can I get away with the lee 3 die set or do i need the factory crimp die.

I heard some people say its fine and some say no u need to use the tamper crimp die

This is going to be shot through a Ruger GP100.

Thanks
 
I've got a factory crimp die (4th die in the 4 die sets) and never use it. I seat and crimp with the bullet seating/crimp die without any issues. I also do the same for 357mag and all rounds are shot in my Smith 586 or ruger Blackhawk.

Load away!
 
For stout loads, use the taper crimp to put on a firm crimp. The 3 die set should be fine. I find the 4th die very handy in pistol (not revolver) ammo, to make sure they will all chamber.

ya i usually always buy the 4 die set...but right now its hard for me to get and the 3 die set I can get right away.

Thanks
 
Hey guys whats up!

I have a question about loading 38 special. Can I get away with the lee 3 die set or do i need the factory crimp die.

I heard some people say its fine and some say no u need to use the tamper crimp die

This is going to be shot through a Ruger GP100.

Thanks

You're good to go with the 3 die set for revolvers. I only use the factory sizing die for pistol ammo since one barrel I have is pretty picky.
 
If you shoot plated bullets in your revolver you will wish you had the four die set, plus a taper crimp die. You get better results when seating and crimping in separate operations and light and mid-range loads do not require a roll crimp.

"A carbide sizer inside the Carbide Factory Crimp die post-sizes the cartridge while it is crimped so every round will positvely chamber freely with factory like dependability. The adjusting screw quickly and easily sets the desired amount of crimp. It is impossible to buckle the case as with a conventional bullet seating die. Trim length is not critical so this extra operation takes less time than it would if cases were trimmed and chamfered.

Revolver dies roll crimp with no limit as to the amount. A perfect taper crimp is applied to auto-loader rounds. The crimper cannot be misadjusted to make a case mouth too small to properly head-space. A firm crimp is essential for dependable and accurate ammunition. It eliminates the problems of poor ignition of slow burning magnum powders."

http://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/lee-carbide-factory-crimp-die/

crimp-4_zps7b8c9848.jpg


Crimps-3_zps15b1fd66.jpg


I taper crimp all my revolver cases when loading light and mid-range loads, "WHY" over work the case mouth and increase the chances of splitting the case mouth with practice loads.

Example below, 95% of the powder is burnt in just a little over 2.5 inches and all burnt at 4.2 inches of barrel length. Hard roll crimps are for the slowest burning powders and not required with medium and faster burning powders.

44231_zps745df461.jpg


Squeeze Play: How to Properly Crimp Ammunition
http://www.handgunsmag.com/handguns/squeeze-play-how-to-properly-crimp-ammunition/
 
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The .38 Special cartridge was introduced to the reloading world 116 years ago. The Lee Taper Crimp die came out about 10 years ago. Do you really think people were making crap reloads for 100+ years?

The Lee die may be beneficial in some situations, but it is never necessary. And sometimes it creates bigger problems than it solves.
 
The .38 Special cartridge was introduced to the reloading world 116 years ago. The Lee Taper Crimp die came out about 10 years ago. Do you really think people were making crap reloads for 100+ years?

The Lee die may be beneficial in some situations, but it is never necessary. And sometimes it creates bigger problems than it solves.

THE WINNER, of all of this same theme of threads which appear on here with great regularity!
 
The .38 Special cartridge was introduced to the reloading world 116 years ago. The Lee Taper Crimp die came out about 10 years ago. Do you really think people were making crap reloads for 100+ years?

The Lee die may be beneficial in some situations, but it is never necessary. And sometimes it creates bigger problems than it solves.

The Lee Factory crimp die may have came out approximately 10 years ago but cartridges have been taper crimped longer than the .38 Special has been around, and I said nothing about crap reloads. The Lee factory crimp die is VERY useful for people too lazy to trim all their cases to the same length and prevents buckled cases from over crimping. It is favored by competition shooters who constantly pick up and use range pick up brass fired by other competitors in matches.

The biggest problem reloaders have is seating and crimping in the same operation and getting good crimps that don't bulge the case mouth. I use two dies and seat and crimp in separate operations to keep from readjusting my seating dies which many reloading manuals recommend. In the past I just placed a washer under the seating die to keep it from crimping, then removed the washer to crimp the case. I for one like the factory crimp die and have no problems with its use.

If you are having a problem with the Lee factory crimp die then you have the die setup incorrectly or your shooting over sized cast bullets which the die was never designed for. I stopped casting my own bullets and now use plated bullets in my revolvers and semi-autos and prefer using a taper crimp on all but maximum loads. I'm 65 years old and have been reloading for over 46 years and this old dog still has the ability to learn new tricks.

Is the Lee factory crimp absolutely necessary, the answer is no but I still use them.

Is a runout gauge absolutely necessary for rifle cases, the answer is no but I still use one.

Is a micrometer and a vernier caliper absolutely necessary for reloading, the answer is no but I use and have several.

Is a Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge absolutely necessary, the answer is no but I still use one.

gauge002_zpsd2792ffa.jpg


And I now use my Wilson case gauges for paper weights and pen holders.

penholder_zps4213e7d3.jpg



And the best thing about reloading is it isn't a team sport and when I sit at my reload bench I do it my way and enjoy it without being grumpy about what other people use.



How to select the right die set for your needs (and teach old dogs new tricks)

"All Lee Handgun Dies feature a Carbide Sizing Die. Carbide dies are simply the best way to resize straight walled handgun cartridges.

The Standard Three Die Set works fine when using a quality controlled source of gun brass like cases fired only in your gun. More care is required when adjusting the bullet seat and crimp die as seating and crimping occur simultaneously.

Select the 4 Die-Deluxe Pistol Die Set when using mixed range brass or brass that was fired in other guns. The Deluxe Set includes the Carbide Factory Crimp Die. This die allows you to separate the bullet seating from the crimping operation. It makes setup much easier and the die has the added feature of a carbide resizer that does a finishing sizing pass on the completed round. This final sizing guarantees that any case that passes through the die will freely and reliably chamber in any gun."


http://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/
 
Better to load .357 brass to .38 velocities, but no crimp is required unless you're using a hot load or loading for a lever action rifle. Target loads don't need or want a crimp.
Loading .357 brass makes the need to clean the cylinders after shooting .38's go away. Isn't a big deal either way. The lube gunk ring comes right out with a .45 calibre brush. Your GP won't care one way or the other. Been loading .357 brass for mine since the GP first came to Canada 30 some years ago.
 
Yes, I have loaded 38 Special class loads in 357 cases many times. Have also loaded full blown 357 power loads in 38 S cases, when using the Lyman 358429 mold, which is too long OAL to work in many 357 revolvers.
Any damage to the cylinders in using the shorter cases is pure hogwash.
Far too much is made of crimping the 38 Special, especially with target loads. I don't ever recall a 38 bullet creeping forward from recoil of others being fired. Usually, I just used the seating/crimping die to take the belling out of the case, put there for loading cast bullets.
 
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