Slugging my .338 barrel. w/photos.

[Shooter ----/]

You may have to do some machining to the tang area of the stock. Or shave the tang area of the action. Nothing should be touching the action behind the rear screw.

 

[minniehill2]

Have you shot a group with the brake removed from the gun? I would try this also.

 

[Kelly Timoffee]

Here is a photo of the area, although I cannot say the marks are from recoil or just when I was fitting the action into the chassis and scratched/rubbed the area.

You may have to do some machining to the tang area of the stock. Or shave the tang area of the action. Nothing should be touching the action behind the rear screw.

 

[Chinbullco]

Driving a slug with a wooden dowel is just asking for trouble. You are so lucky you did not cause an obstruction that would be very hard to remove. Wood has no place inside a barrel. I would use a close fitting flat nosed steel rod wrapped with tape every couple of inches to protect the bore.

That being said I would never slug a barrel because I had an accuracy problem. If you managed to successfully drive a slug through the barrel (breech to muzzle) and got an accurate slug to examine, how and what would you do next? You may be able to accurately measure the diameter (bottom of the grooves)? Are you able to measure the bore? (Top of the rifling). And what would that tell you?

Slugging a bore is usually done to determine exact size to determine what you need for shooting lead bullets most accurately.

Quite possibly enough was not removed from the muzzle of the barrel when it was installed.

I've used slugs when barrels that look okay just won't group. I have found open spots in the middle of a couple factory barrels. But driving slug into muzzle will not reveal any answers. Slug needs to travel from breach to muzzle. Barrel needs to be scrubbed clean, slug lubed, and bore needs a light coating of grease. Once slug is fully engaged in rifling it will push through by hand. If slug tension inside bore changes drastically its time for a new barrel. If slug tension is steady then drops off to nothing at the muzzle cutting barrel back might restore accuracy. I know several shooters that shortened factory barrels before slugging the barrel and cut where bore is undersized and had greatly reduced accuracy. What slugging a barrel will tell you is bore diameter consistency and tightness or lack of it at the muzzle. Sometimes that's better than pouring more time into load development on a barrel that will never shoot well.

 

[nanuk]

if anyone doesn't believe you can easily feel the tight spots, try slugging a H&R Handi rifle.... where the forearm lug is welded on, there is almost Always a tight spot easily felt

 

[nw mb]

...cerrosafe? ...i've used in chamber/throat, breech end, and muzzle ...easy to dislodge and will give you 3 slugs with which to compare without all the struggle ???