Glass for lightweight bushgun - and mounts

ez8

ez8

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i just picked up a Tikka T3 Lite Compact 20" light barrel. overall i think it weighs a little more than the full size on the spec sheet (which is surprising) but real life i held a t3 light stainless and the T3 Compact and the compact was lighter to the feel, and better balanced.

anyway, im trying to shave every oz possible to keep her slim.
i was looking at the leupold mounts for cost, i know everyone goes with Optilock on the Tikka but reallyive never heard a complaint about Leupold mounts on other rifles so i dont see how the tikka would be diferent?
opinions?

as for the glass, ive been eying the
Leupold VX–2, 2-7x33mm which is $450 (plud $50 mail in rebate)
Weight 9.90 oz
F.O.V :at actual magnification
44.60 ft at 2.4x
17.80 ft at 6.7x

VX–3, 2.5–8x (36mm) $599
• Weight: 11.4 oz. • Length: 11.4”
• F.O.V.: 37.5’ at 2.6x, 13.7’ at 7.8x

VX•R, 2–7x (33mm) $686
• Weight: 12.7 oz.
• Length: 11.3”
• Field of view:
43.7’ at 2.5x
17.8’ at 6.6x

i have a VXR 1.25-4 on another setup, absolutely love the scope but disappointed with the red dot (which i dont really need for hunting.) and the little added weight probably isnt a big deal for the added FOV.
overall, looking at the actual spect the VX-3 probby has the better range of magnification and most likely the best glass, not sure where th VXR glass fits in.

any suggestions, or something else i should look at? i dont buy used glass, new from stores only.
 
Personally I think glass is over-rated for a bush gun, too easy to get dinked out of kilter scruffling through the bush, but that said, I'd go with the biggest FOV I can afford... using your choices, the VX-2 is the largest FOV but enough mag for when you want to go for some distance. Crispness of focus and color preservation of the optic is another thing- having an image that is crisp and allows you to quickly acquire your image against a low contrast background. I really like my Nikon for that. But, good irons with shrouded front and low profile rears to not snag easily are what I prefer. Not really shooting far in the bush anyway.
 
I'm with machanist... for the bush a heavy reticle is nice if shooting fast (its amazing how easy it is to lose the thinner reticles against the brush/branches)... Leupold seem to have the lighter scopes but open sights can be best...of course as I get older seeing the sights is tougher and scopes are very helpful. Used to be the lightest ring/base combo was the aluminum 2 piece base Weavers and their cheapy rings with aluminum saddle and steel band. They are not elegant and can scratch scope tubes but they are light , work well, can be removed quickly and arent too bad for returning to near zero fwiw
 
Leupold ultra light 2.5x. Only 6 ounces. Has held up well on the 45-70. 4.9" of eye relief. You won't find anything lighter... 39' FOV

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mechanist said:
Personally I think glass is over-rated for a bush gun, too easy to get dinked out of kilter scruffling through the bush, but that said, I'd go with the biggest FOV I can afford... using your choices, the VX-2 is the largest FOV but enough mag for when you want to go for some distance. Crispness of focus and color preservation of the optic is another thing- having an image that is crisp and allows you to quickly acquire your image against a low contrast background. I really like my Nikon for that. But, good irons with shrouded front and low profile rears to not snag easily are what I prefer. Not really shooting far in the bush anyway.
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although i agree, irons would be better for this application i dont have the best vision. glasses help in some situations but cause issues in others so i generally dont wear them.
some days i can see great, some days i cant...the more moisture in the air the better i can see actually, after it rains at night my vision is best (obviously a dry eyes issue).
 
although i agree, irons would be better for this application i dont have the best vision. glasses help in some situations but cause issues in others so i generally dont wear them.
some days i can see great, some days i cant...the more moisture in the air the better i can see actually, after it rains at night my vision is best (obviously a dry eyes issue).
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sounds like you have pretty mild and easily corrected vision impairment ... it changes as you get older unfortunately. I have found that the scopes with the quick turn/focussing eyepiece seem to work better for me when trying to bring the reticle and image onto the same focus plane. The threaded type that Leupold (and many others) use is more difficult for me. It could be that the multiple threads are slower so your eye adapts making it hard to find the exact correction. You are supposed to stare at a wall or "infinity" and then look back periodically to check focus - anyway if you go with an optic (as most of us do) ensure it focuses ok.
for you.
 
AP said:
sounds like you have pretty mild and easily corrected vision impairment ... it changes as you get older unfortunately. I have found that the scopes with the quick turn/focussing eyepiece seem to work better for me when trying to bring the reticle and image onto the same focus plane. The threaded type that Leupold (and many others) use is more difficult for me. It could be that the multiple threads are slower so your eye adapts making it hard to find the exact correction. You are supposed to stare at a wall or "infinity" and then look back periodically to check focus - anyway if you go with an optic (as most of us do) ensure it focuses ok.
for you.
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yes its a very mild vision issue. i still pass the vision test with 20-20 somehow, i can make out what the letters are but its blurry some/most days. the optometrist says they cant really make a weaker prescription and its mostly just pinpointing my astigmatism that makes the glasses useful or useless(and keeping up with a lot of eye drops). ive had the same prescription for 15 yrs (with minor tweaking for the astigmatism, as the glasses i had a few years back i couldnt even walk while wearing them, made the ground all wavy), and i only really wear glasses for night driving, even just polarized sunglasses during the day make me see very clear...its weird, i know. my new optometrist has it all set bang on though.
 
If you stay with a fixed 2.5x like I show above, you will find a lot less focus issues. When you zoom in from 2x-7x you magnify the issue. I have always found my scopes at the low end barely mattered where I adjusted them, but at the high end showed the reticle out of focus. A low powered usually does not require second thought, when you pull up, its just right there...
 
Geez, 5 inches is a lot of eye relief. You find that causes any grief? Just curious.
Burris makes their MTAC 1X to 4X x24, with 3.5 to 4 inch eye relief, weighing 14.5 ounces. 100' FOV, at 100 yards, on 1X. 32' on 4X.
 
sunray said:
Geez, 5 inches is a lot of eye relief. You find that causes any grief? Just curious.
Burris makes their MTAC 1X to 4X x24, with 3.5 to 4 inch eye relief, weighing 14.5 ounces. 100' FOV, at 100 yards, on 1X. 32' on 4X.
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I have a Leupold 2.5 on a T/C . The eye relief wasnt a problem for me .. but the extraordinary FOV will include a good piece of your barrel which the first few times is a little unsettling till you tune it out.
 
ive got leupold vxr 1.25-4, amazing scope, perfect eye relief but not really what im looking for.


any opinions on the mounts? should i spring for New Optilocks or go wit the Leupold bases and rings? other option is put on a tikka rail and throw on some good quality rings.
i kinda like the idea of a rail, and would love to run QD mounts that return to zero, but they are all usually off a little.
 
DMS1 said:
As you mentioned weight is a concern, nothing would beat Talley Lightweights. 1 pc ring and base, lower mounting for smaller diameter scopes also.
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the mounts dont really add all that much weight. ide take a mount i can rely on over one that i going to keep wondering if its still holding zero.
 
Just bought the VX2 in 2-7 with optilocks. the scope and rings should be i tomorrow, the shop called them in from another location.
 
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