Recoil...reduction...help!

No, not glued on. Two screw holes in pad ... installed by making a slit where the screws go and slipping them in with a little Vaseline so as not to chew up the rubber.
Use your fingers to pry at the rubber to see where the slits are, they should reveal themselves easily. After that, grease up a No. 2 Phillips with Vaseline and slip it in.
The gun needs to be held solidly ( i.e. padded vise jaws ) by the receiver. Use two hands on the screwdriver carefully so as not to bugger the screw heads.
 
beretta boy said:
No, not glued on. Two screw holes in pad ... installed by making a slit where the screws go and slipping them in with a little Vaseline so as not to chew up the rubber.
Use your fingers to pry at the rubber to see where the slits are, they should reveal themselves easily. After that, grease up a No. 2 Phillips with Vaseline and slip it in.
The gun needs to be held solidly ( i.e. padded vise jaws ) by the receiver. Use two hands on the screwdriver carefully so as not to bugger the screw heads.
Click to expand...

Gotta love this site! Once I get home and get the pad off, maybe instead of 'pennies' I can cast some wheel weights to size and drop that in there...with a little pad of 'pink foam insulation' at either end, might be just the ticket!

Then again I suppose it might be possible to get too much weight in there and defeat the purpose...end up pounding a quarter sized hole in my butt pad, haha!

Jim
 
jakfrost said:
Gotta love this site! Once I get home and get the pad off, maybe instead of 'pennies' I can cast some wheel weights to size and drop that in there...with a little pad of 'pink foam insulation' at either end, might be just the ticket!

Then again I suppose it might be possible to get too much weight in there and defeat the purpose...end up pounding a quarter sized hole in my butt pad, haha!

Jim
Click to expand...


That won't happen. The pennies/wheel weight will go forward on recoil. That is why you need to put some foam in first and at the rear so it doesn't rattle around. You can try with pennies first and then add more weight as you feel you need, to cut down on recoil.

Let us know how it turns out. My Stoeger M3500 came with a large chunk of steel that you screw into the rear of the buttstock. It really helps with the recoil of 3.5" magnum BB's for hunting geese!

Cheers,

Ian
 
jakfrost said:
Gotta love this site! Once I get home and get the pad off, maybe instead of 'pennies' I can cast some wheel weights to size and drop that in there...with a little pad of 'pink foam insulation' at either end, might be just the ticket!

Then again I suppose it might be possible to get too much weight in there and defeat the purpose...end up pounding a quarter sized hole in my butt pad, haha!

Jim
Click to expand...
I came up with using fishing weights inside a stock of a certain gun to balance out its heavy front end. Would serve same purpose I guess.
 
Roalco said:
You might want to give the EvoShield ShooterShield recoil shirt a try, I did, and I really like it. Simply, It does what it claims.
Here's a write up on them by Chuck Hawks, but just google it. I bought direct from the company, and had it shipped up. Easy.
http://www.chuckhawks.com/evo-shield_shirt.htm
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip/link...I went to the Evo-Shirt site this morning and ordered one, inexpensive shipping to Canada, $10.00...looking forward to trying it out!
I'll advise after the first try-out!!

Jim
 
I made a recoil reducer one time from a bow stabilizer for a mossberg 535. Took about half the recoil out of it. I cut the stabilizer to length and cut equal amounts out of each spring and put weight,springs and fluid back in the tube and soldered the end back on so it wouldn't leak. I than put heavy foam in the butstock and centered the reducer right in the middle so it couldn't move around. Really helped alot with slugs and 3/12" loads.
 
Man this place is way more supportive and helpful then it used to be and other shotgun specializing forums. Not a single post of, "put a Maxi pad under your bra strap."

I would say you now have the perfect excuse to get into reloading for that shotgun.
 
The reason for that is simple James. Most target shooters with any intelligence realize that recoil affects shooting ability, as it can develop flinching and poor posture and mount. All of which will seriously affect scores if not remedied. One cannot eliminate recoil in a shotgun, however one can reduce it's effect on your body, the simplest way to reduce your ammo payload, the faster or heavier the shot charge is the more recoil the gun will produce. Adding weight to the gun(in right places), swapping to better recoil pad or having the stock adjusted to fit the shooter properly will help. Two indentical guns can feel different when shot as well. I'll give you example, a couple years I did most of my hunting with a H&R Pardner 28" Modified choke. The gun fit me well, put a pattern at 30yrds a hair over center. I almost never missed a grouse with it. Last year when I started shooting trap more I decided I would order another, 32" barrel Full choke. The gun patterned center at 30yrds(not a good combination for trap). The 28" barrel gun would pratically break my jaw after 2 rounds, the 32" I could shoot all day long comfortably. The two guns were stocked identical, weighed within 6oz of each other. So I figured I'd add 6oz to the stock on the 28" gun. I finished one round with it, my face hurt for 3days. I mentioned this to another member, who pointed muzzle jump was why the shorter gun hurt more to shoot with. When I added weight to the rear of the gun, it allowed it to jump more, not less. A target does have to be heavy, but heavy in right places.
 
I believe Challenger and Remington both produce 12 gauge standard velocity 7/8 ounce target loads that would make a big difference. A gel pad that fits in a vest would work as well. I used to use one with a silver reserve that had excessive felt recoil and it helped. I eventually sold the gun as it was a fit problem more than anything.
 
I'm hesitant to recommend slip on pads and sissy pads which exasperate the LOP problem, on a gun that is probably already too long. LOPs that are too long increase felt recoil, so the first thing to address is getting the gun to fit you and ensure it's fitted with a good quality pad. Once the gun conforms to you, rather than the other way around, you will immediately notice an improvement. Then comes the question of technique, and I'm surprised how many experienced shooters get this wrong. Start with your feet about shoulder width apart, now take a half step forward with the leg on your support side. Push the gun out in front of you, to ensure the butt will not catch on clothing as you raise it, then pull the butt into the pocket of your shoulder. At the same time flex your forward knee slightly, and shift your weight towards it, maybe 60% forward 40% rearward. Your knee can be as far forward as the toe of your boot, but no further. Obtain a good cheek weld, acquire your sight picture, and make the shot. If your position is correct, the recoil will flow across your chest, and down your rearward leg. The recoil will feel moderate and controllable, and if you are shooting a pump, cycling the slide will be very fast, as the recoil will assist the movement. If you shoot with a high elbow, the pocket of your shoulder will be open, which is good for the correct placement of of a gun butt, but if you find the recoil is still uncomfortable, lowering your elbow will close the pocket, and provide a bit of additional cushioning. Just watch that the gun butt does not rise out of your shoulder, reducing the surface contact it has with your shoulder. As the season gets later, heavier clothing will be worn, and for the most part this too will help reduce the amount of felt recoil, but heavier clothing will also exasperate the problem of too long a LOP. Additionally, you should beware of the problem of bulky materials which create an airspace between the butt of your gun and your shoulder, there's nothing like giving your gun a running start before it hits you.
 
I would like to have someone 'fit' my shotgun, if possible, to me...but have no idea whom to ask to perform such a task. I assume if I were able to find a reasonably large shooting, asking for information there would get me pointed in the right direction.

Is it expensive to have this kind of expert advice? Would/could it involve physically modifying my stock? As in potentially sawing off an inch or so? Or tacking on a bit, as the case may be.

I'm assuming there are shotguns made to be readily adjustable, but I have never seen one...probably for good reason, I imagine they are expensive :). I guess I'll start with seeing if the gun can be 'adjusted' first...my stance is pretty much exactly as you suggest, and that came from mimicking the 'good' shooters that I have seen.

Thanks for the good information!

Cheers,
Jim
 
The best advise I can give you is to take your guns to a shotgun specialty gunsmith and have them correctly fitted to you. While there's the old tried and true method of matching the LOP to your forearm length with your arm bent at 90 degrees, which is quick and dirty enough for an inexpensive pump gun, or even replacing the factory stock with an adjustable model, these techniques are incomplete for a classy and reasonably expensive gun like a Winchester 101. I don't know enough to be able to provide you with the information you need, and if one of the experts doesn't reply to your question, perhaps give Bilozir Fine Guns a call and ask them to recommend a quality shotgun gunsmith who can correctly fit your guns to you.
 
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