Want to hit 1000 meters

[Schecter 81]

Not sure you need to factor in spin drift at 1000 with anything. Maybe at a mile or futher. 1000 really isnt that far. It starts to feel that way with something like a .308 and 168s, but it is definately doable. With something nice and slippery like the 6.5, a 7mm, or a big .30 1000yards shouldnt be too hard. Just need a good spotter to get you ringing the steel and learning your dope.

.308 is a great place to start, just make sure you start with 175s or 178s if you want to stretch it out. It will help you with the wind and carrying out that far. I really like my .284 for that distance. Makes 1000 feel like 600 for a .308. Your come ups are easy, wind is what you need to learn on a .308. It is one of the easiest to load for and you can find a load super easy on any of the forums. Components are everywhere, powder a little harder. Good quality rifles readily available and comfortable to shoot. Had my old Savage 10FP with Hornady 178 Amax and 44.7g Varget print a 7in group at 1000m. Had a hell of a time stretching it out to 1300 yards so I build a .284 and a .338 improved. Long Range is like crack, once you get a little, you always want more!!

Here we go
ok built a custom 6.5 x55
Kreiger medium varmint 24 with break
on mcmillain ultra light sporter
running as hot as I can to get the most energetic out at a 1000
we have been practicing at a 1000 for well over a year now
this takes a lot of time and energy to get the right dope for your scope
there is a lot of variables to play with
spin drift for a 300 not so much for my little 264
the big boys have to contend with more flinch and drift and wind .
Its a lot of range hours and loading time to get there all of the time

 

[Willybuch]

Start at about 3:45 and begin, I think this video series has helped most of us. I think when I started getting into rifles and long range I was same boat you are... What do I get, where do I start, etc. etc. The info is out there and these videos will help you a LOT! Also 8541 tactical is a good youtube channel to subscribe to. With your budget I would suggest remington 700 of some kind in 243 or larger, and bushnell fixed 10 power scope with tps rings and weaver tactical 20 MOA base. That should get you close at 1000.

 

[Gillis2]

I agree with the choice of a Sightron scope. Quality is definitely there for a moderate price. But for shooting that far, I would go with a 8X32X56. It is about the same price as the 6X24 (see Hirsch precision). I have used both the 6X24 and the 8X32. Both are great but for big distance, I think the 8X32 would have an advantage.

Gilbert

 

[K0na_stinky]

I agree with the choice of a Sightron scope. Quality is definitely there for a moderate price. But for shooting that far, I would go with a 8X32X56. It is about the same price as the 6X24 (see Hirsch precision). I have used both the 6X24 and the 8X32. Both are great but for big distance, I think the 8X32 would have an advantage.

Gilbert

The 8-32 has 30 MOA less internal adjustment then the 6-24 so I would say the 6-24 has the advantage.

Also on both the 8-32 and the 6-24 the retical is accurate at 24 power. So if your holding for wind you will need to have both on 24 power.

 

[K0na_stinky]

Not sure you need to factor in spin drift at 1000 with anything. Maybe at a mile or futher. 1000 really isnt that far. Just need a good spotter to get you ringing the steel and learning your dope.

In my opinion what you said there goes against everything that is precision LR rifle shooting.

If there are things that I can adjust for, I will. In todays conditions at 1000m spin drift was 0.8 MOA and coriolis, another 0.3 MOA. That is 13.32" at 1000m. So why would you not adjust for things like spin?

There is a very good chance that you are a lot smarter then I am. I like to keep things simple.

 

[No Fear in Accuracy]

You only need about 25 to 30 MOA to reach to 1,000 yards therefore add 20 MOA rail and 15 to 30 MOA elevation scope is all you need. I have an amazing Sightron III 10-50x60 which only has 50 Elevation MOA. Means 25 up and 25 down.
8-32x56 is plenty for you to reach to 1,000 yards.

 

[Schecter 81]

In my opinion what you said there goes against everything that is precision LR rifle shooting.

If there are things that I can adjust for, I will. In todays conditions at 1000m spin drift was 0.8 MOA and coriolis, another 0.3 MOA. That is 13.32" at 1000m. So why would you not adjust for things like spin?

There is a very good chance that you are a lot smarter then I am. I like to keep things simple.

I suppose...if coriolis and spin drift is keeping it simple....

Maybe the calculator tells you that, maybe it doesn't. All I know is what my ballistic calculator tells me and what the ring of steel tells me once I get there. I have had my calculator tell me that I needed 3moa of wind at 1000m when I got there I was at 1/2 moa. I have found that shooting the conditions and recording the results, then going back to my data book is getting me first round hits the next time much more consistently than the calculator ever did. I have tried several and none ever gave the same answer as the other. They do a good job getting me close, but in the end the changing conditions and learning to read them are more important than what the iPhone tells me.

Coriolis only really impacts you when shooting East/West or West East. We only see very minor L/R shifts at that distance when shooting N/S and your wind dope is going to have WAY more impact. I have played with spin drift a bit, but have never found it to be more significant than trying to read the wind conditions and factor for that. My .284 reaches a mile pretty comfortably without calculating for spin or corialis. Ups and Wind. And a good stead hold.

Maybe that goes against every you define as long range shooting. I define long range shooting as successfully putting lead on steel at very long ranges. So far 1900m is my furtherst. How about yours?

 

[K0na_stinky]

You only need about 25 to 30 MOA to reach to 1,000 yards therefore add 20 MOA rail and 15 to 30 MOA elevation scope is all you need. I have an amazing Sightron III 10-50x60 which only has 50 Elevation MOA. Means 25 up and 25 down.
8-32x56 is plenty for you to reach to 1,000 yards.

The OP is looking to shoot 1000m. My buddys 308 needs 44.5 MOA to get there. My 260 needs 36 MOA.

 

[Schecter 81]

I need 50.5moa with my 168gr load. If I remember, I needed 47moa with my 178gr load. Always go with more elevation. Once you start getting 1000y you will want to go further. Plus, 24x is comfortable at 1000y. Unless you are shooting BR or F-Class or something, you don't need more mag.

You only need about 25 to 30 MOA to reach to 1,000 yards therefore add 20 MOA rail and 15 to 30 MOA elevation scope is all you need. I have an amazing Sightron III 10-50x60 which only has 50 Elevation MOA. Means 25 up and 25 down.
8-32x56 is plenty for you to reach to 1,000 yards.

 

[K0na_stinky]

I suppose...if coriolis and spin drift is keeping it simple....

Maybe the calculator tells you that, maybe it doesn't. All I know is what my ballistic calculator tells me and what the ring of steel tells me once I get there. I have had my calculator tell me that I needed 3moa of wind at 1000m when I got there I was at 1/2 moa. I have found that shooting the conditions and recording the results, then going back to my data book is getting me first round hits the next time much more consistently than the calculator ever did. I have tried several and none ever gave the same answer as the other. They do a good job getting me close, but in the end the changing conditions and learning to read them are more important than what the iPhone tells me.

Coriolis only really impacts you when shooting East/West or West East. We only see very minor L/R shifts at that distance when shooting N/S and your wind dope is going to have WAY more impact. I have played with spin drift a bit, but have never found it to be more significant than trying to read the wind conditions and factor for that. My .284 reaches a mile pretty comfortably without calculating for spin or corialis. Ups and Wind. And a good stead hold.

Maybe that goes against every you define as long range shooting. I define long range shooting as successfully putting lead on steel at very long ranges. So far 1900m is my furtherst. How about yours?

Well were getting a little off track and if we turn this into a #### measuring contest then you won.

This will be boarder line on topic but I feel I should correct you, but this is not a personal attack.

If your calc tells you that you need 3MOA wind and you only needed ½ it is due to user error. You have to be able to put the correct speed and direction for the average wind in the bullets flight. Keep in mind that the bullet spends very little time at your location.

As for drop, there is no reason why you can’t get accurate predictions with most calculators. I know for a fact that Byran Litz’s and JBM’s calcs. are very accurate. Keep in mind that you need to have velocities for all temps that you may shoot in or at least a good prediction of your muzzle velocity variation due to temp. change. Not accounting for this will cause huge misses in your elevation.

Horizontal coriolis will always seem to have a right “deflection” and need a left correction when shooting in the northern hemisphere, regardless of your direction of fire. The reason I say “deflection” is because the bullet continues in its original flight path, but your target ends up in a different location due to our earth being a sphere that is rotating under your bullet while in flight.

The reason why you need to keep things simple and separate wind from spin/coriolis drift is because wind can vary in direction and spin/coriolis can not.

Think of it like this. Lets say you have a 2MOA wind and 1MOA of spin/coriolis. If the wind was coming from the left you would have 3MOA total drift. If the same wind was coming from the right you would have 1 MOA drift. That’s a 2MOA difference and makes your wind dope useless. Unless your a lot smarter then me and can figure this stuff out in your head out on the range. Again a definite possibility.

Keep in mind that I’m assuming were all shooting right twist barrels.

In long range shooting you need to keep an open mind. It’s a lot of fun to get first round hits, but its even more fun to figure out why you didn’t.

 

[No Fear in Accuracy]

The OP is looking to shoot 1000m. My buddys 308 needs 44.5 MOA to get there. My 260 needs 36 MOA.

I shoot with 6BR, 105gr Berger Hybrid Target and it needs 28MOA to reach 1,000 yards. For 1,000m, I dialed up to 33.5MOA
For 6.5x284 Norma, 26MOA to 1000 yards, 30MOA to 1000m.

You're correct if you are using 260. It needs around 36MOA.

My vote is go for 284. It is an awesome cartridge and it can shoot 1000m with ease.

 

[minniehill2]

savage 6.5 creed with 140gr pills 1000 yards=30MOA and I average 5/8 MOA accuracy.

I shoot with 6BR, 105gr Berger Hybrid Target and it needs 28MOA to reach 1,000 yards. For 1,000m, I dialed up to 33.5MOA
For 6.5x284 Norma, 26MOA to 1000 yards, 30MOA to 1000m.

You're correct if you are using 260. It needs around 36MOA.

My vote is go for 284. It is an awesome cartridge and it can shoot 1000m with ease.

 

[vviking]

savage 6.5 creed with 140gr pills 1000 yards=30MOA and I average 5/8 MOA accuracy.

Very similar results to my heavily tweaked 6.5x55 Swede there minniehill2.
Zeroed at 200yd, it wants 28 moa of come ups at 20C, to center the gong at 950yd.
This, with 140 Amax at 2675 fps mv, from a fresh CG arsenal made M38 mil spec 22.5" barrel.
Groups will hold inside .7moa at that distance ... on my 'better than average' days that is!. lol!

6.5 mm ...

 

[Schecter 81]

I shoot with 6BR, 105gr Berger Hybrid Target and it needs 28MOA to reach 1,000 yards. For 1,000m, I dialed up to 33.5MOA
For 6.5x284 Norma, 26MOA to 1000 yards, 30MOA to 1000m.

You're correct if you are using 260. It needs around 36MOA.

My vote is go for 284. It is an awesome cartridge and it can shoot 1000m with ease.

I will second that on the .284! I only needed 24.5moa for 1000y. 33.4moa to 1200y, 72.5moa to a mile.

 

[mad_machinist]

Thanks everyone for your insights and comments.

With the .284 what grain of bullet are you using? Factory ammo consistently available?

 

[No Fear in Accuracy]

I only use Lapua brass therefore it only sells 6.5x284 brass. Need a mandrel to open up the neck to .284

I believe Winchester does sell 284 brass. Not sure if they sell factory ammo.

I'd choose Berger 180gr Match Hybrid Target due to high BC. The VLD is also good.
``WARNING`` - if you are using a factory rifle then I do not recommend using Hybrid Target or VLD because it is too long and may not fit inside the chamber. The custom barrel is the best way to go.

 

[Schecter 81]

I dont think there is any factory ammo available for the .284 anymore. Definately not anything that would be considered "match". It was originally a short action hunting cartridge that has been readopted as a long action match cardridge.

Winchester does make .284 brass, but I buy 6.5x284 Lapua brass, neck it up with a K&M mandrel and turn all my necks inside and out with a K&M turner. Before turning them I ended up getting donuts inside the neck after a couple firings.

I use the Berger 180gr Match Hybrids. Way easier to find a load than the VLDs. The Sierra Matchkings 180gr also shoot great. Lapua has a 180 Scenar as well.

H4831SC is the go to powder.

DEFINATELY A CUSTOM BARREL ON THIS ONE