Boyd's Stock for Lee Enfield

Ganderite

Ganderite

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 99.7%
355   1   0
Location
Farm south of North Bay
I have accumulated a number sporters over the years. I also have some old target rifle barrels, some of which are not too heavy.

I think I will make a nice sporter, using an old 308 barrel, but using a 303Brit reamer (no throat). I made one once before, using full wood, and it works well. The regular magazine and extractor work perfectly. I call it a 308British.

Boyds offer some real nice laminate stocks for a sporter. Their website shows the wood, but no completed rifle.

I am imagination challenged. Can anyone post a picture of a completed sporter? They offer two colors, too.
 
Thank you. That is the Boyds laminate thumb-hole? I like the forend style, but not so sure I like the butt. This is why I would like to see pictures of rifles.

The wood looks gorgeous. I assume you finished yourself. Tru-Oil? Tung Oil?
 
tru oil The barrel is a new button rifled 6mm chambered to 240 flanged with a WR tapper .The t/h stock was made-finished carved from an uninletted blaster carved blank in nutmeg and finished .We went this way as t/h stocks are very hard to find and when we did they were not as wanted to fit older arthritic hands of a leftie

Cheers Peter
 
Last edited:
Would be nice if Boyds made some full military stocks, like they do for the Garand.

I also like the idea of the ".308 British" round. Wonder how much it would cost to have one turned from a .308 barrel blank.
 
LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1 said:
Would be nice if Boyds made some full military stocks, like they do for the Garand.

I also like the idea of the ".308 British" round. Wonder how much it would cost to have one turned from a .308 barrel blank.
Click to expand...

Target rifle shooters only get one or two seasons form a match barrel. The wear is the first 2" of the throat. If the barrel has a non-tapered shank section, it is easy to cut 2 or 3" from the chamber end and can then rechamber in the caliber our your choice.

I have a nice blued barrel that is fairly light by match barrel standards, so I reckon I can make a nice 19" sporter that is accurate bit not too heavy. Sticking with the 303 case will solve so many problems.

Thinking of using a #1 action because they make nicer sporters.
 
Ganderite said:
Target rifle shooters only get one or two seasons form a match barrel. The wear is the first 2" of the throat. If the barrel has a non-tapered shank section, it is easy to cut 2 or 3" from the chamber end and can then rechamber in the caliber our your choice.

I have a nice blued barrel that is fairly light by match barrel standards, so I reckon I can make a nice 19" sporter that is accurate bit not too heavy. Sticking with the 303 case will solve so many problems.

Thinking of using a #1 action because they make nicer sporters.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of getting a replica military barrel made up in ".308 British" and doing up a full wood rifle. would not be hard to round up a sporter with a good action. Just wonder haw hard it would be for a machinist to pump out a No.4 barrel? biggest problem I can see is the threads. They are a very unique thread are they not?

Biggest issue for shooting .303 is finding bullets. Im getting set up to cast but would be nice to have the option to use match .308 bullets.
 
I have two Rosses that shoot that exact cartridge because of .300 bore diameters. It is a GREAT round. I really enjoy shooting the 220gr pills out of them. Deadly accuracy, not bad for recoil or noise.
 
LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1 said:
I was thinking of getting a replica military barrel made up in ".308 British" and doing up a full wood rifle. would not be hard to round up a sporter with a good action. Just wonder haw hard it would be for a machinist to pump out a No.4 barrel? biggest problem I can see is the threads. They are a very unique thread are they not?

Biggest issue for shooting .303 is finding bullets. Im getting set up to cast but would be nice to have the option to use match .308 bullets.
Click to expand...

Not difficult to cut the threads for a #4 or #1. The gunsmith would cut off most of the chamber section, if starting with a 308Win barrel, then proceed like he would with any barrel. Cut a chamber and thread the shank. The only extra step, compared to other rifles, is to cut a small notch in the breech face for the extractor.

I had a replica barrel made, complete with bayonet lugs, to install in a #4 I all my pseudo-sniper. It was a fitting use of a used match barrel that might otherwise have been thrown away. After cutting 4" off the chamber end, it was like new inside.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom