T3 Terminator installed

Remington country

Remington country

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Hey guys

just looking for some quick advise, There are no gun smiths in town and I have ordered a T3 Terminator Muzzle brake the brake will be coming with a .25" hole and need to make it large enough for my .30 Cal bullet. What do you guys suggest starting with smaller bits and working my way up to a final size.

Thanks what size bits do you recommend?
 
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Since there is a hole there already the next drill will drill on size, how much clearance do you need in a muzzle break? Go slow and use oil to lube drill,
 
Drill it with a 5/16 bit which is .315 and hope its straight and centered. Drill bits aren't reamers so they are made to drill the complete hole if you could get a reamer for your job that would be best.
 
Remington country said:
Hey guys

just looking for some quick advise, There are no gun smiths in town and I have ordered a T3 Terminator Muzzle brake the brake will be coming with a .25" hole and need to make it large enough for my .30 Cal bullet. What do you guys suggest starting with smaller bits and working my way up to a final size.

Thanks what size bits do you recommend?
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You should end up with a hole of about 11/32 (0.34375") - that gives you a bit more than 15 thou clearance around the exiting bullet. This assumes that the threads and hole are perfectly concentric, which is left to you. Depending on the material, you should use at least two sizes - 19/64" then 11/32".
 
Because of the internal shape of the brake drills will not follow the hole as accurately as you need.

The barrel needs to be set up in the lathe concentric with the bore as close to a ten thousands of an inch as you can do.

Then it needs to be threaded so the brake will thread on by hand but not loose ... once you have achieved that it then needs to be indexed and installed with permanent Loctite.

Then you can drill the hole about 30 thou undersize and finish the hole diameter by using a boring bar... a few thou at a time until the hole is concentric and 25 thou larger than the bullet diameter.

This is the way it should be done for the best accuracy and efficiency.
 
READ what guntech wrote very carefully. Unless you have a lathe, which it doesn't sound like, you will be ruining a brake and throwing away your money.

It really sounds like you intend to use a tap and die set to thread your barrel end and the internal threads on the brake. REALLY BAD IDEA. It will be almost impossible to keep everything true to the axis of the bore. When it comes to installing a muzzle brake, concentricity is EVERYTHING. Unless you are extremely lucky because that is the only way it will happen, you will just bugger up a good barrel and brake. Don't even attempt this if you don't have a lathe and know how to do the work.

By the way, there are some very good clamp on brakes available as aftermarket products. Do a Google search.
 
I'm not sure where u get the idea I'm going to use a tap and die set my barrel is currently threaded with a Christensen arms muzzle brake already. The new brake had the matching threads to my rifle the only problem is its been bored to.25" and I need it to handle my. 30 cal bullet
 
Remington country said:
I'm not sure where u get the idea I'm going to use a tap and die set my barrel is currently threaded with a Christensen arms muzzle brake already. The new brake had the matching threads to my rifle the only problem is its been bored to.25" and I need it to handle my. 30 cal bullet
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Well it is a simple but precision procedure. Boring it while indexed on the barrel.

Done this way eliminates the inaccuracies in the threading and shoulder fit of the barrel and brake.
 
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Why would you need the barrel with the break indexed? Assuming the break is already concentric, just indicate off the bore of the brake, and bore (as in boring bar) to size. The new hole should have enough tolerance built into it that you should have no issue - especially if the hole is oversized by 25 thou. This would have to be done on a lathe though.
 
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StylinMike said:
Why would you need the barrel with the break indexed? Assuming the break is already concentric, just indicate off the bore of the brake, and bore (as in boring bar) to size. The new hole should have enough tolerance built into it that you should have no issue - especially if the hole is oversized by 25 thou. This would have to be done on a lathe though.
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I don't assume the brake is concentric... The unfinished brake (not break) when indexed to the barrel is not always concentric. (inaccuracies in the threading and shoulder fit and in the brake itself)... so the most accurate way to to machine the bore of the brake is when it is indexed on the barrel it will be used on... as described in post 5.
 
Guntech gave great advise. Just because one brake has been installed and made concentric to the barrel/bore, it does not mean a new brake which happens to be the same thread will be concentric to that barrel/bore until placed in the lathe and measured up.

I remember doing two exact same factory guns with two identical brakes. Both barrels and brakes were slightly different.
 
Remington country said:
Thanks for all the great info I contacted a machine shop in town he's going to do it on his lathe for me.
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Make sure the machinist understands what needs to be done. If they don't normally do this sort of work them may not understand the importance of boring out the brake while on the bbl. Print out guntechs's instructions. Doubt they will dial the barrel in correctly either
 
juanvaldez said:
Make sure the machinist understands what needs to be done. If they don't normally do this sort of work them may not understand the importance of boring out the brake while on the bbl. Print out guntechs's instructions. Doubt they will dial the barrel in correctly either
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X2 ^^...The day I decided to buy my own lathe was the day I returned to a local machine shop to retrieve an Enfield P14 action. I had asked for the barrel to be relieved at the action ring so it could be removed. When I picked it up the barrel had no relief cut so I enquired how he had removed the barrel without doing the work asked for....his reply...."It was just quicker to heat the action ring up red hot and just spin it off by hand".
 
According to Terminator, the through hole requires opening up to 0.025-0.030" over calibre size. That'd be .333" to .338".
The maker posted about 'em on another forum back in 2012. Backward facing ports (so it'll be really loud when shooting) and "These are CNC machined from 420 or 316 stainless steel & are available with various thread sizes from 9/16 to 20mm." Don't think concentricity will be an issue.
Add the W's. .nzhuntingandshooting.co.nz/f45/t3-terminator-muzzle-brakes-704/
 
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