drilling & tapping a savage 1899

I can toss it in the river if I like, rifle holds ZERO collector value, barrel has been cut a long time ago, front sight is brazed to the barrel, rear stock is cracked in 5 places
 
I'm sure any qualified smith can do that, but I have no idea of whom to reccomend in your area, I've seen lots of them scoped, so there must be an aftermarket mount for them, I'd say have a peek on google for the scope mount made for it, find one or purchase one, then have a look or post a thread in the gunsmithing section to find someone with the skills closest to you to drill.

If you do decide you don't want it send me a PM, I may be interested to take it off your hands.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

edit: some info regarding it:
http://www.chuckhawks.com/savage_99.htm

williams, weaver and leupold apparently make bases for them.

also, you may be looking at spending $120 + cost of the mount for the rifle, shooters edge locally charges $30 a hole, labour is likely cheaper out west though, it may be easier to pick up an axis scope package when you add costs.
 
You will have to find somebody with a jig. The front is easy because its parallel to the barrel but the rear one is sloped or rounded back towards the grip. If there is a one piece base available it might not be so bad.
 
Yessir - I've seen more than one 99 that has been massacred by a gunsmith D+T. The rear mount is very difficult to do, and would necessitate a jig of sorts.
 
The receiver ring is straightforward, with the correct tooling.
If Weaver type bases are being used, the rear base is more complicated.
I use a Forster jig for these d&t jobs. Last 99 I did, I installed the front base. Applied a straight edge to the top of the base, ran the rear base along under the straight edge, until I knew where it should sit, fore and aft. Once I knew where it should be, I located one screw hole position, and drilled and tapped it using the jig. Installed the base, located the second hole, drilled and tapped it using the jig.
An internal mike can be used between the anvils on the jig to get the spacing; I prefer to work using the actual base.
A one piece base would be easier. Locate and correctly drill and tap the front holes, then install the base and locate the rear hole.

Using a jig like the Forster pretty much guarantees that all the holes will be in a straight line. Unless you do something stupid.
Wouldn't even consider a job like this without the jig.
 
That old rifle was never meant for a scope but the one piece base is the way to go... get the front two holes right first... level and as far back as you can with the rear lining up for elevation. The rear hole can be tough as it is close to the heat treated locking area. You can bed the rear of the base to fit the action better...
 
100% Agree. You want a scope, buy modern.
guntech said:
That old rifle was never meant for a scope but the one piece base is the way to go... get the front two holes right first... level and as far back as you can with the rear lining up for elevation. The rear hole can be tough as it is close to the heat treated locking area. You can bed the rear of the base to fit the action better...
Click to expand...
 
I have a 99, made about 1952, that could almost pass as new in a store if it had hangtags on it. Never drilled and tapped for a scope, nor would I ever d&t it. My eyes cannot handle open sights any longer. I do have a tang sight, but I must make a shim for it, so that it does not touch the stock, and mark it. Lovely classic sporting rifle.
 
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