S&W Victory - to repark or not !?!

Country_Younger

Country_Younger

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Hello all,
I recently purchased my first Victory revolver in .38S&W and am looking for some help identifying the markings.
It has a matching "V414###" serial number on the barrel and the cylinder but behind the cylinder arm there is another number under some letters shown in the pic?
2014-10-30200935.png

Also, there are markings under the grips. Im pretty sure the "W" is from the S&W inspector at the time? And the "V" is self explanatory, but the rest I was hoping someone can help with (appears to be 2 "L"'s, a "1", a "3", etc.
The serial number has been ground off the bottom of the grip frame aswell. Was this done for any particular reason?
2014-10-30200828.png

2014-10-30201034.png


Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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Your AD 7025 is an ASSEMBLY NUMBER, applied when the Crane and Cylinder were matched-up to the Frame.

All critical parts were FITTED in the white, then the gun torn down, finished and reassembled. Then it was completed and Proofed.

These are nice little guns and they are capable of much better performance than one might think.

Proper bullet for these is a 200-grain .363". You can get them from JETHUNTER on this forum. They do shoot very nicely.
 
many guns are given a number during the manufacturing process, to keep parts matched. I see these numbers on Savage bolt actions, for example. Serial numbers are only given numbers to guns until after they have been assembled and accepted as working guns.

I get the best results with 363 SWC bullets from Bullet Barn. Failing that, I use the 148 hollow base.
 
Thanks for the info Ganderite. Found 100rnds of reloads for $75 shipped. Didnt even ask what grain or details. Just happy to have found some. Love these old revolvers. Wish i could find an Albion No2 Mk1.
 
Have one as well, nice piece of history. There is a guy in the states who can trace the gun via the serial number and tell you more about it. S&w will do it but they charge. He has the book that covers the same information. Mine was made in September of 1942. Mine doesn't have any import markes, the fella said the soldier most likely kept it. Message me and I'll try and dig up his email for you.
 
I have one as well. It wasn't expensive. In fact it was a bit ugly as it had a big rubber Pachmayer grip and the parkerized finish. Both are very functional, but lack elegance.

My first shot at 10 yards was as dead center as can be. I remember walking up to the target and thinking. "I couldn't have drawn the center any better on a drafting table."
I imagine what I felt is similar to what you would experience, scoring a hole in one in golf. Needless to say that this revolver is a favorite! It has 3 sets of grips now. None of them correct but at least 2 are wood.

Too bad 38 S&W is in short supply. I might be very disappointed if I didn't reload.
 
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Proper plain/uncheckered wooden grips are available from Numrich. So is the lanyard ring/base.

As mentioned, these are nice pistols and very accurate when you use the proper diameter bullets.
 
Country_Younger said:
Found 100rnds of reloads for $75 shipped. Didnt even ask what grain or details. Just happy to have found some.
Click to expand...

I'm a little late on the draw here, seeing this was posted in November, but shooting someones reloads (not made by yourself) in your own firearm is unwise. Check into reloading for yourself for these odd ball cartridges. It really is dirt cheap once you're set up.
 
Thx guys.
I would definitely like to do my own reloading. Makes sense using random reloads in the old girl could go bad.
Thanks

You cant really tell from the pics but the finish is basically gone and the metal is a bit spotted with very very minor pitting in a few spots.
Now, is it worth having it re- park'd or does that decrease the value enough to be a concern?
Im sure this topic has been beaten to death but, what cha think???
 
The title of the thread says 'to repark or not?'

Are you considering re-parkerizing the pistol and why are you considering that?

A lot of collectible pistols are ruined because someone decided to re-finish them for that 'fresh' look. I personally think it ruins any historical value the pistol had, just enjoy the honest wear on these old guns :)

-Steve
 
I don't really have enough info, but I'd personally go for re-park unless something significant tells me otherwise. The frame does not look look it was prepped for polished blue, so likely originally parked anyways.

The fact that the serial number was ground off of the frame means you will not be bubba. How is it registered? Off of the assembley number under the crane?

Parker Hale and others did a brisk business reaming the cylinders and selling them as compact 38 special to North America. The barrel might even have a soldered on ramp if it is one of these beasts; however, it does nasty things to brass (cylinder ream, not the brazing).

Smooth grips are not always correct and wouldn't spend a dime trying to make it something that it is no longer, nor will it ever be. It is now a shooter, not a collector.

I can probably help with parts if anything needs a tweeked.

More pics would tell a better tale.
R
 
Im bad for checking in on this thread, sorry.
Ya, unfortunately it showed some rust looking freckles so i scrubbed it good and that removed just about all the original finish.
I thought having it re-parked would restore it to its original beauty since the an honest historical used wear is no more.
Yes, i did purchase the relaods from a commercial reloaded and not bubba.
It was registered with the serial # under the barrel.
The grip frame doesnt show significant grinding or tool marks to have removed the serial number IMO and i wish someone could explain how and why it would have been removed at all???
It has not been reamed, and still chambers the wimpy .38sw nicely.

So, it sounds like the majority believe re-parking would be a negative. I appreciate the advice guys !
 
I'll still vote to park it!

Is the serial number on the barrel also on the cylinder and perhaps under the ejector star?
 
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