Savage No.4 Mk1* restore. Update Post #21

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Megaclocker

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I would like to purchase a No4 Mk1. But I would like to know if there's anything obvious I should look for.
Also what is the difference between the No4 mk1 and mk2 wood set. No1 seems easier to find.

Thanks for your time !

EDIT :

TradeEx Order Received (buttstock + buttplate)
Numrich (Small stuff) Ordered on 26th Nov
Sarco Order (Small stuff + 2x foreend) Ordered on 26th Nov
Liberty Tree Order (Sling, tool kit, bayo, swivel, handguards) Ordered on 25th Nov
 
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Mark 2 woodset has a SLOT at the back of the forestock to accommodate the brazed-on trigger assembly. Mark 1 and 1* have a cutout for the sear/trigger instead.

On marks 1 and 1*, trigger is pinned to guard; on Mark 2 it is brazed to the frame and you need a different triggerguard.

Remember, small parts are not SERIALLED but they are marked to manufacturer. Canadian safety is different than English but interchanges.

Download the appropriate Armourers' Manuals if you are serious.

A good Number 4 can be a very sweet rifle out to 600 yards or so.
 
Here is the difference of the trigger.



I do not have a picture of the fore-end though...

Here are the pictures of the restored No4 Mk2. I have to be careful when I say "restored" as I'm not sure of what I did with the bedding... However, I really enjoy the new look of this rifle and can't wait to try it on the range.









 
Very nice rifle !

Soo No4 mk1 and mk2 wood don't interchange. That's what I wanted to know.

Will most likely go the mk1 way since they seem easier to find. (wood also)
 
The fore-end only won't interchange. You have to find a Mk2 fore-end because there is a screw at the back of the fore-end like shown in the pictures below. Of course, the comparison is not the best as the other fore-end is from a No1 Mk III* but it is pretty similar to the No4 MkI. The point is to show the difference... the Mk2 is cut at the back because of the Mk2 trigger design.

So, to make sure you have a Mk2 fore-end when bad pictures are available, you have to look for that screw hole.







Then, the other difference is like smellie said, the SLOT has to be there to fit the trigger.



This is what it looks like with slot and no slot.





 
I'm pretty sure the Mk II forend can be used on a Mk I but NOT vica-versa. For restoration, the proper fitting of the forend is everything. To do it correctly the first time is unlikely so I would suggest buying a second forend for practice. If you buy a brand new forend you'll probably just be removing wood (very carefully) to fit but if you use one that has been previously fit to a rifle you may have to build up certain spots or even patch the "draws" which is certainly not trivial. You'll wonder what you've done the first time you chisel the old ones out of an otherwise good forend. If you join "Milsurps" forum you'll find lots of instructional threads on this.

milsurpo
 
milsurpo said:
I'm pretty sure the Mk II forend can be used on a Mk I but NOT vica-versa. For restoration, the proper fitting of the forend is everything. To do it correctly the first time is unlikely so I would suggest buying a second forend for practice. If you buy a brand new forend you'll probably just be removing wood (very carefully) to fit but if you use one that has been previously fit to a rifle you may have to build up certain spots or even patch the "draws" which is certainly not trivial. You'll wonder what you've done the first time you chisel the old ones out of an otherwise good forend. If you join "Milsurps" forum you'll find lots of instructional threads on this.

milsurpo
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My plan was to order twice every wood piece. To get the best ones and try to match them best.
 
Just secured a sporterized Savage 0C Mk1*.

More to come next week. Wanted a beat up gun to practice parkerizing, but this one seems too nice to mess up.

Anyone got a source for middle and front swivel screws (I think they are the same, aren't they ?)
 
Megaclocker said:
Just secured a sporterized Savage 0C Mk1*.

More to come next week. Wanted a beat up gun to practice parkerizing, but this one seems too nice to mess up.

Anyone got a source for middle and front swivel screws (I think they are the same, aren't they ?)
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0C Mk1* nice early Savage serial number. There are also slight differences between the Mk1 and Mk1* wood, but a Mk1* rifle will fit in the Mk1 stock.

oh and I have a 0C Mk1, a very early savage, on my restoration rack so if your going to order a wack of forestocks and your near Edmonton I'll volenteer to help sort you out for what you really need. I have a small pile of enfields that I can let you see and compare to what your looking at, and may have properly marked parts to swap if needed to get the correct marked ones.

The extra stocks you can sell on the EE or to guys looking for wood locally ;)
 
If you guys get the all wood you're looking for, I'm looking to get my #4 mk1 back to full wood.

It doesn't matter if the finish is rough, I'll be refinishing. I need everything except a butt stock.
Shoot me a PM if you have spares... I'm in Calgary.

I'll be wandering the Thornecliff gun show (Jan. 10th ?) looking for some.
 
woodchopper said:
0C Mk1* nice early Savage serial number. There are also slight differences between the Mk1 and Mk1* wood, but a Mk1* rifle will fit in the Mk1 stock.

oh and I have a 0C Mk1, a very early savage, on my restoration rack so if your going to order a wack of forestocks and your near Edmonton I'll volenteer to help sort you out for what you really need. I have a small pile of enfields that I can let you see and compare to what your looking at, and may have properly marked parts to swap if needed to get the correct marked ones.

The extra stocks you can sell on the EE or to guys looking for wood locally ;)
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I am located in Québec, Will most likely buy 2-3 woodset from Numrich and TradeEx. Hoping at least one will ''match''.
 
Updates !

Got my used Enfield.

The Good :
Matching bolt
Good (very) bluing

The Bad :
2 Groove Barrel (looks new but groove don't seems to be cut quite deep ??)
Buttstock will need to be replaced
Cheap buttplate
Funny packing job

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Metal work looks good and looks like it has had a bedding job done to it. And 2 groove barrels are not bad and shoot just as well as any other. The 2 grooves do appear not as deep but they are fine and they usually shoot well longer that the other groove barrels, Alloy butt plate is correct for Savage Lee Enfield too.
 
Nothing seemed bedded (at least to me)

Metal cleaned up real nice.

Two band screw showed up in the mail today (One is a bit longer then the other, normal ?). I also have a TradeEx package at the post office. More to come in the next few days !
Almost everything is stamped with the Savage ''S''.

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woodchopper said:
0C Mk1* nice early Savage serial number. There are also slight differences between the Mk1 and Mk1* wood, but a Mk1* rifle will fit in the Mk1 stock.

oh and I have a 0C Mk1, a very early savage, on my restoration rack so if your going to order a wack of forestocks and your near Edmonton I'll volenteer to help sort you out for what you really need. I have a small pile of enfields that I can let you see and compare to what your looking at, and may have properly marked parts to swap if needed to get the correct marked ones.

The extra stocks you can sell on the EE or to guys looking for wood locally ;)
Click to expand...


ACTUALLY this is a 1944 , very late Savage. I assume it has a 5-digit serial number after the 0C ? They started out as Mk 1 in the original 0C###X range, changed over to Mk 1* spec sometime later (can't remember, but thinking around 10C series? ) Then at the end after 99C , went back to 0C again (though maybe "OH" instead of a "Zero" ?) with 5-digit serial numbers until manufacture ended at Savage. The earliest 0C###x ones would have a date stamped (1941 0r 1942) , Savage later stopped stamping the dates.
 
vinver said:
ACTUALLY this is a 1944 , very late Savage. I assume it has a 5-digit serial number after the 0C ? They started out as Mk 1 in the original 0C###X range, changed over to Mk 1* spec sometime later (can't remember, but thinking around 10C series? ) Then at the end after 99C , went back to 0C again (though maybe "OH" instead of a "Zero" ?) with 5-digit serial numbers until manufacture ended at Savage. The earliest 0C###x ones would have a date stamped (1941 0r 1942) , Savage later stopped stamping the dates.
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After some reading that's what I figured out. (indeed there's five number there).

Got some wood today + buttplate. A Short birch wood buttstock.

How to fit the buttstock properly to remove that gap ? (Was thinking rubber hammer on buttplate, but I find that kind of crude.)

rcTkdFf.jpg

Bticke4.jpg


Thanks !
 
granite said:
The butt plate on the gun as received is the correct one - not the steel LB one in the last. Look on the inside the first one - there should be an S on the trap door and below it. Savage used the Zamac plates, not steel.
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There's the ''S'' on the Zymac one. I'll keep it, don't worry.

Since it's pretty beat up, I just wanted to freshen things with a 2$ new buttplate.
 
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