Show your PYTHONs & Snakes Here +++
- Thread starter bigi
- Start date
Refresher for those of you with snakes!
To check Colt timing:
BOLT RETRACTION AND "SNAP BACK".
Open the cylinder and look at the small "lug" in the bottom of the cylinder window. This is the cylinder locking bolt.
#### the hammer, and watch as the bolt retracts into the frame and pops back out.
The bolt MUST begin to retract THE INSTANT the hammer begins to move.
There MUST be NO (ZERO) hammer movement possible before the bolt starts to retract.
The bolt should retract smoothly with no hesitation until it's fully retracted, then it MUST pop back out with a clean "snap".
There should be no hesitation, and no amount of "creeping" back out.
CYLINDER UNLOCKING.
Close the cylinder.
Use your left thumb or fore finger to again #### the hammer, closely watching the cylinder bolt as you SLOWLY #### the hammer.
As the hammer comes back, the bolt will retract away from the cylinder.
The bolt MUST retract far enough to unlock the cylinder BEFORE the cylinder begins to rotate.
If the bolt is still slightly engaged with the cylinder lock notch, the cylinder will be attempting to turn while still partially locked.
This produces a "catch" or "hard spot" in the trigger pull and will damage both the bolt and the cylinder lock notches.
This often appears as metal "pulled out" of the lock notches, with rounded off and burred notches.
BOLT DROP TIMING.
Continue to #### the hammer, laying your right index finger on the cylinder just enough to prevent "free wheeling".
Watch for the bolt to drop back onto the cylinder. WHERE the bolt drops is CRITICAL.
The bolt MUST drop onto the lead or ramp in front of the actual cylinder notch.
If the bolt drops too soon, (in front of the notch ramp), it will mar the finish of the cylinder.
The bolt SHOULD drop into the MIDDLE 1/3rd section of the ramp.
If the bolt drops late, (farther toward the actual locking notch) the revolver may display "cylinder throw-by".
In this condition, during double action shooting the cylinder may rotate PAST the locking notch, and fire in an unlocked condition.
It's the nature of the Colt action, that a hesitant or jerky trigger pull by the user can induce throw-by in even a properly tuned Colt.
The Colt trigger should be pulled with a smooth, even pull, with no sudden jerks at the beginning.
CYLINDER LOCKUP.
Continue to pull the hammer back and both watch and listen for the bolt to drop into the cylinder lock notch.
The bolt MUST drop into the actual lock notch BEFORE the hammer reaches full ####.
The most common Colt mis-time situation is the hammer cocks before the bolt drops into the lock notch. (Hammer is cocked, but cylinder isn't locked).
In this condition, with the hammer fully cocked, you can push the cylinder slightly, and you will hear the "CLICK" as the bolt drops into lock.
In my experience, most Colt's leave the factory with the bolt dropping a little late into the lead, but usually wear in to correct timing.
If the bolt drops onto the cylinder early, no real problem, but there will be extra finish wear.
If the bolt drops late (closer to the lock notch) the cylinder may "throw by" or rotate TOO far in double action and this can cause off-center primer hits and firing while unlocked.
Each of these checks should be done on EACH chamber. All of these checks are better done individually. In other words, do the bolt retraction check on all six chambers, then do the bolt drop test, and so on.
A properly tuned Colt will:
Have a smoothly functioning bolt with no sticky or hesitant movement.
Unlock before the cylinder begins to turn.
The bolt will drop onto the middle 1/3rd of the ramp.
The bolt will drop into the lock notch before the hammer reaches full ####.
Have a smooth trigger pull, which does "stack", or get heavier toward the end of the pull.
To check Colt timing:
BOLT RETRACTION AND "SNAP BACK".
Open the cylinder and look at the small "lug" in the bottom of the cylinder window. This is the cylinder locking bolt.
#### the hammer, and watch as the bolt retracts into the frame and pops back out.
The bolt MUST begin to retract THE INSTANT the hammer begins to move.
There MUST be NO (ZERO) hammer movement possible before the bolt starts to retract.
The bolt should retract smoothly with no hesitation until it's fully retracted, then it MUST pop back out with a clean "snap".
There should be no hesitation, and no amount of "creeping" back out.
CYLINDER UNLOCKING.
Close the cylinder.
Use your left thumb or fore finger to again #### the hammer, closely watching the cylinder bolt as you SLOWLY #### the hammer.
As the hammer comes back, the bolt will retract away from the cylinder.
The bolt MUST retract far enough to unlock the cylinder BEFORE the cylinder begins to rotate.
If the bolt is still slightly engaged with the cylinder lock notch, the cylinder will be attempting to turn while still partially locked.
This produces a "catch" or "hard spot" in the trigger pull and will damage both the bolt and the cylinder lock notches.
This often appears as metal "pulled out" of the lock notches, with rounded off and burred notches.
BOLT DROP TIMING.
Continue to #### the hammer, laying your right index finger on the cylinder just enough to prevent "free wheeling".
Watch for the bolt to drop back onto the cylinder. WHERE the bolt drops is CRITICAL.
The bolt MUST drop onto the lead or ramp in front of the actual cylinder notch.
If the bolt drops too soon, (in front of the notch ramp), it will mar the finish of the cylinder.
The bolt SHOULD drop into the MIDDLE 1/3rd section of the ramp.
If the bolt drops late, (farther toward the actual locking notch) the revolver may display "cylinder throw-by".
In this condition, during double action shooting the cylinder may rotate PAST the locking notch, and fire in an unlocked condition.
It's the nature of the Colt action, that a hesitant or jerky trigger pull by the user can induce throw-by in even a properly tuned Colt.
The Colt trigger should be pulled with a smooth, even pull, with no sudden jerks at the beginning.
CYLINDER LOCKUP.
Continue to pull the hammer back and both watch and listen for the bolt to drop into the cylinder lock notch.
The bolt MUST drop into the actual lock notch BEFORE the hammer reaches full ####.
The most common Colt mis-time situation is the hammer cocks before the bolt drops into the lock notch. (Hammer is cocked, but cylinder isn't locked).
In this condition, with the hammer fully cocked, you can push the cylinder slightly, and you will hear the "CLICK" as the bolt drops into lock.
In my experience, most Colt's leave the factory with the bolt dropping a little late into the lead, but usually wear in to correct timing.
If the bolt drops onto the cylinder early, no real problem, but there will be extra finish wear.
If the bolt drops late (closer to the lock notch) the cylinder may "throw by" or rotate TOO far in double action and this can cause off-center primer hits and firing while unlocked.
Each of these checks should be done on EACH chamber. All of these checks are better done individually. In other words, do the bolt retraction check on all six chambers, then do the bolt drop test, and so on.
A properly tuned Colt will:
Have a smoothly functioning bolt with no sticky or hesitant movement.
Unlock before the cylinder begins to turn.
The bolt will drop onto the middle 1/3rd of the ramp.
The bolt will drop into the lock notch before the hammer reaches full ####.
Have a smooth trigger pull, which does "stack", or get heavier toward the end of the pull.
BS Speak for yourself.
No disrespect to you but I am not even a gunsmith by trade and I consider myself quite proficient at fixing Colt double action revolvers and especially Pythons. So...... I meant that it's not rocket science and any good smith who takes the time (and not much of it) to look at and learn the inner workings of a Python, will have absolutely no problem doing a good job fixing them. They are much easier to work on than a S&W revolver. Simpler in design and less parts. The single one and only drawback is the lack of sources for new parts . I do my own gunsmithing as a hobby ( quite a bit of it actually!) and can fix the timing on a Python in about 1.5 hours using the original parts. It takes me about 3 hours install and fit an oversized hand to correct a timing issue on a S&W. Don't buy into the internet BS that a Python is hard to fix............ it is exactly that............. internet BS
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PS: Pythons are timed very late and even on unfired guns, you will find that the hammer locks extremely soon after the cylinder does .
This business of "laying your right index finger on the cylinder just enough to prevent free wheeling" is not an accurate, real world way a revolver works. There is never any resistance to the cylinder when working the action on a proper working revolver. The proper way to check the timing on any revolver is to #### the hammer back at super slow motion and the second the hammer locks, gently touch the cylinder and try turning it. If there is an audible click, that is the bolt dropping into place telling you the revolver is out of time.
This business of "laying your right index finger on the cylinder just enough to prevent free wheeling" is not an accurate, real world way a revolver works. There is never any resistance to the cylinder when working the action on a proper working revolver. The proper way to check the timing on any revolver is to #### the hammer back at super slow motion and the second the hammer locks, gently touch the cylinder and try turning it. If there is an audible click, that is the bolt dropping into place telling you the revolver is out of time.
Max Owner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Never had a gun that needed work. So far.....
And lots of knowledge has been lost. I've seen people around my neck of the woods (at range and by word of mouth) that claim to be gunsmiths and are really butchers.
And lots of knowledge has been lost. I've seen people around my neck of the woods (at range and by word of mouth) that claim to be gunsmiths and are really butchers.
LOL
Well I'm anything but a butcher having quite a background in mechanics. All of my 7 Pythons here run like tops and so do any of the ones that I have sold to fellow GN'ers. Ask them.
Pythons are insanely simple in comparison to building a 600 horsepower LS Chevy motor or a Harley Twin cam motor that makes 120hp at the rear wheel.
I've done both of the latter.
I've got a Python JellyBean worked on, and the action is every bit as good as my other Pythons (I have 5). The only exception is a 1980 that came out of the Colt Custom Shop after having a Patridge front and Elliason rear sight installed, and the action 'tuned'. It is sublime, noticeably more refined and smoother than the other four. No offense to Jellybean, they are all very nice, but that one is amazing. And, it is my shooter!
- Location
- Some days I really wonder ?
Keep looking on here and have the money ready to go ( and I mean quick ). If one comes up that you really like and want badly grab it. Wait to long and it's gone. More and more collectors and shooters that want & truly seek these fine revolver pieces are getting into them each day. I myself missed the boat more then a few times here on CGN due to waiting and pondering well should I ? The demand is growing much faster then the supply can keep up. That's one of the many reasons why the price is increasing constantly.
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- Location
- Some days I really wonder ?
New snake just slithered through the door..........
WOW ! whata beauty. First time I have ever seen a like new Elite. These are rare Pythons indeed up here to see " They go for more "
