Make up a tight fitting mandrel that is inserted through the front receiver ring and tighten it into place.
There are a couple of ways to do this but the one I like works well.
Make up a mandrel in one set up to keep it true. The end that fits through the receiver to the chuck should be long enough to be clamped into a 4 jaw or more chuck, or be fitted to a center and held in place by a dog leg. Each end needs a center divot to accept a center from the driven and rest end. This will give the mandrel control of center of axis. The threads duplicating those of the receiver will be cut on that same axis. If it will not fit into the receiver, make sure your measurements are correct. If all looks well, the receiver threads are either not true to center or somehow miscut. Usually, If it is only a very slight bind, I just carry on. If it is something more serious, I will reject the receiver outright and assemble it into a working rifle with a factory barrel, test for acceptable accuracy and sell it. Once the receiver is in place, turn the face of the receiver true to the center of axis which is mandated by the mandrel.
This method isn't perfect but it fixes the biggest problem with receivers that aren't true, no matter which manufacturer. It squares off the lock up shoulder between the shoulder of the barrel and receiver. If one or both of those are out of true, it will have adverse effects on accuracy. That's why I like to cut the tenon threads and square off the shoulder between centers or only hold the very end tip of the barrel in the chuck when doing this job. It isn't difficult, it just takes time and patience to make sure it is all true the first time.
Newly manufactured actions are so true, since being machined on CNC equipment that can "almost" be considered as match grade.