Is this barrel repairable? (Auto5)

C

Chris_E

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Hey fellas, Iv got a Japan made auto5 3", that has a very questionable history.
Long story short the barrel was cut down about 1/2" with the invector choke still installed. Because of this the choke was basically bore Dia and was no longer removable. That is until I got fedup and tack welded a bolt to the inside of the choke to get enough strength to unscrew it.

Because iv lost so much of the barrel the standard invector choke now looks like this.
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I think it's safe to say that currently this is no longer safe to shoot considering the choke is exposed where it probable experiences most of its stress. And no longer has the barrel to help support those pressures.

Does anyone have any ideas on what can be done to salvage this barrel?
This guns only purpose will be as a waterfoul gun so I really won't require to constantly change out the chokes once I find one that patterns well.
 
Well that's what I was thinking. I know win Meg chokes are half the length but the threads are located at the top rather then the bottom like the invector system.
 
I would say shoot the bugger there is usually a lot of clearance around that area , there is on my browning anyway. What have you got to lose? The barrel looks belled out at the end for the choke so not sure how far it could be chased down.
 
It would be save with lead with steel hard to say . It's not a simple as having the treads re cut it u look At all factory shotguns with screw in chokes the last 2-3 in he's of the muzzle is flared that makes it easy to accommodate the choke on you's that has changed and to recut it u would have to cut the rest of the thread away and use a aftermarket system
 
struff55 said:
It would be save with lead with steel hard to say . It's not a simple as having the treads re cut it u look At all factory shotguns with screw in chokes the last 2-3 in he's of the muzzle is flared that makes it easy to accommodate the choke on you's that has changed and to recut it u would have to cut the rest of the thread away and use a aftermarket system
Click to expand...
Yeah, aftermarket posibly , depending on just how thick that barrel is.
Epps threaded a barrel for me for my Dad's 1100 , put in a Colonial choke, and I used to have a Browning superposed that had one barrel threaded with a Carlson thin walled choke.
I would get it fixed for sure, butt ugly the way it is!!LOL!!
Cat
 
It should be fine as is, if I'm reading correctly and the threaded area is not expanded. The choke tube contains the pressure in that area, not the barrel.
 
What about finding a new tube that has the choke diameter you want at the cut off length , cutting it and cutting new removal notches and installing it? An inside micrometer can measure a tubes inside diameter at the cut length . Any machine shop can measure the inside diameter at any point before cutting it . A normal full or modified choke tube may just be an IC or mod when cut back to match the barrel.
Pete
 
catnthehatt said:
Now THAT is thinking outside the box, Pete!
I should check some of the Trulocks I have for my O/U guns, it might possibly work.
Cat
Click to expand...

If we consider a choke is tapered , and the tube is cut about half way up there just might be a chance that a tighter choke than we want could be close to what we want at mid way. It would be interesting to see what a full or extra full / turkey choke measures half way. To make it meaningful we would need to measure the choke tube at both ends and in the middle to know how much restriction it is . Not all bores are the exact same size. By knowing the diameter at the tube to bore end, muzzle end and mid way we know the degree of restriction we are getting and that translates to choke.
 
Now we're talking Pete!

These are all great ideas. I have a nice mic so I could just go into the local shop and open up a box and try it out. Or perhaps the father inlaws browning A500R has the same choke system so I can go through his and measure them out first.
 
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