I've faced that very problem and had to order it from the USA, could never find it locally. I searched "Brass stock" on eBay and had a few results of flat brass bars on the first page just now, probably your best bet.
POA-POI for SAA .45 LC 5.5 barrel? Update.
- Thread starter Brianma65
- Start date
I've faced that very problem and had to order it from the USA, could never find it locally. I searched "Brass stock" on eBay and had a few results of flat brass bars on the first page just now, probably your best bet.
That is a really bad way to describe it. It's open to all manner of interpretation.
The proper way to describe the situation is to tell us how many inches high or low the bullets print on the target. This assumes that you aim with the sights right at a bullseye. And that the top of the front blade is even with the upper corners of the rear sighting notch. Doing anything else at all with the sights will mess up any chance of a proper determination.
I like to describe the bullet holes from such shooting as X inches out at Y o'clock. That way it's easy to understand how far from the bull it's hitting and in what direction.
We also discussed in one of your other threads that the POI of the bullets' elevation on the target is highly dependent on bullet weight and muzzle velocity. So if you trim the front blade for this ammo now you are stuck using the same loads from here on in. The trick is to live with the sights for the time being and find out what you're going to do for a steady supply of ammo. Be sure that before you commit to one type that you ensure you will have a steady supply. This applies to the weight primarily. It doesn't matter if it's SWC or round nose or even plated to jacketed. As long as it's the same weight of bullet you can play with the powder charge and obtain a POI for the bullets that match with a bit of testing.
A lot of folks like to settle for 200gn bullets because they cost a little less. It's a popular choice for cowboy action for reasons of both cost and a lower recoil potential from the lighter bullet. But 250gn is a more traditional choice for a single action 1873 style of gun like yours. However there no reason you can split the difference and use 230gn cast, plated or jacketed bullets that are more often seen on .45ACP cartridges.
Once you settle on your bullet choice I'd go for zeroing at 20 to 25 yards. It's a nice in between distance that will give you a good POI to POA matchup for anything from 5 to 40 yards. After 35 to 40 yards bullet drop begins to be a factor.
Other than these longer term and more serious sighting in issues how are you enjoying the new toy? Bloody marvelous or not quite what you were thinking it would be or something in betwee?
The conversion cylinder didn't change a thing. My C&B 1860's did the same thing. I drove out the short little bits of floor litter they use for the front blade and made up some taller sights that are similarly shaped. WORLD of difference.
The front blade is press fitted into a woodruffe key cut like semi circular cutout. It's easy to use a pin punch and a few taps to drive it out in prep for a replacement. If you're handy with a metal file you can work a piece of 1/8 metal down with measuring and trial fits until it just begins to squeak into the cut. At that point cut out the profile for about a 3/16 or a bit more tall front blade. That's 3/16... OK lets say 1/4 inch just so we don't need to make another... tall NOT including the semi circular part that gets pressed down into the slot.
On top of this our old guy eyes can't even SEE that vestigial joke of a rear notch. So I used a thin flat jeweller's file to cut a squared out notch in the hammer down at the middle of the "v". Note that I used a lower case as an editorial comment of what I think of the factory rear sighting.
Anyway... out at the range the proper vertical sided and deep enough to use rear notch in the hammer gave me a lovely view of the new taller front blade. With a slight bit of trimming I had the two guns shooting dead nuts on for elevation. And with a skiff of metal taken off the side of the rear notch on one gun both were shooting spot on for windage as well.
It sounds rather critical to make something to be that precise a fit so that you get a good tap in press fit. But really the only things at risk on such a project are your time and about a dime's worth of steel. Or if you get some brass let's call it a buck worth of brass due to how much of an area you have to file to ensure an even and flat surface. Once you're down near the final size switch to 320 wetordry wet sanding paper on a flat surface to flatten and scuff away the last thou or two.
If you go too far cut off the part you're working on which is still attached to the longer bar to allow easy holding in the vise and start again. It's just time and a few cents worth of material until you get it right. And once you do then the new blade is priceless.
BC , my impacts were all on center of target at 10 yards , POI was POA. I think I've got the sights figured out. ( for 10 yards) 
. I think I want to have it set up for a 25 yrd POA / POI. First I'm going to do as you suggested and try some diff weights. Thanks for all the advice ( I've been listening ). And yes , I'm really enjoying the gun, recoil is not bad at all. I only had 50 rnds with me, and no holster. Next time I'll have a lot more and I've got my new holster I'm really pleased with my first handgun.
. I think I want to have it set up for a 25 yrd POA / POI. First I'm going to do as you suggested and try some diff weights. Thanks for all the advice ( I've been listening ). And yes , I'm really enjoying the gun, recoil is not bad at all. I only had 50 rnds with me, and no holster. Next time I'll have a lot more and I've got my new holster I'm really pleased with my first handgun.
couldn't find unique or trail boss , but did find some CFE pistol. There's load data for CFE pistol , in my Hornady manual. I'm going to try some 230g from higginsons . Not sure what or how to slug the barrel but the rem 250g factory ammo, was very accurate at 10 yards .
Glad you're enjoying it. They aren't for everyone it seems. But for those that lean that way they are a really fun gun to handle and shoot. And unless you are at a cowboy action shoot I suspect you'll get more than your share of curious fellow shooters eyeing your gun. In a semi auto world someone like you that chooses a single action revolver is a rare one.
So now the hunt for reloading supplies starts.....
Remember that lighter shoots lower and faster shoots lower. So if you load up some 230gn bullets you'll likely find that you need to use a lighter and slower charge to make the POI match the POI for the more classic 250gn @ 800fps'ish loads. At least that's the case if you don't want to trim the front blade. But it does give you the option of setting the gun up to shoot the 250's at a closer to the upper limit power level for some recoil giggles then shoot milder 230gn bullets for general plinking and target shooting and the POI for both will match.
CFE Pistol is also listed in the online reloading data center at the Hodgdon website. Since they make the powder this would be a good second source for data to confirm or correct the Hornady book data. It may give you some extra bullet options that are not in the Hornady book.
Slugging the bore is as easy as using a soft lead round ball used for muzzle loading and hammering it into the muzzle with a plastic or brass mallet. When it has a depression in the center with a rim around where the barrel crown is then switch to a 3/8 wood dowel to punch the slug deeper and break away the ring at the crown. Tap it right through to the frame where you've already removed the cylinder. The times I've done this I like to slick up the bore with a bit of oil or grease before hand just for an inch or so in from the muzzle. This helps ensure the slug doesn't try to gall on the steel of the bore.
If you do this the first pass is one which will tell you a lot about your barrel. Once the slug is free of the muzzle ring tap it along with light blows for a couple of inches then switch to moving it by hand. Push it through slowly and feel for the drag. In particular watch as it passes through the frame area for any signs of a little more resistance. Hopefully it'll be free the whole way. But if it has a slight increase in resistance at the frame area just before it comes out the forcing cone you've got a slight bit of bore crush. This isn't uncommon in Rugers. In some cases depending on the ammo and bullet it can lead to a reduction in accuracy. It's not something most of us notice at 10 yards but it may show up at 25. Even there it's not a lot but you may find that it just does not want to shoot as small a group as guns you'll get later on. If you find this to be the case then there are some options. But that's for later. For now you've got plenty enough to do.
So now the hunt for reloading supplies starts.....
Remember that lighter shoots lower and faster shoots lower. So if you load up some 230gn bullets you'll likely find that you need to use a lighter and slower charge to make the POI match the POI for the more classic 250gn @ 800fps'ish loads. At least that's the case if you don't want to trim the front blade. But it does give you the option of setting the gun up to shoot the 250's at a closer to the upper limit power level for some recoil giggles then shoot milder 230gn bullets for general plinking and target shooting and the POI for both will match.
CFE Pistol is also listed in the online reloading data center at the Hodgdon website. Since they make the powder this would be a good second source for data to confirm or correct the Hornady book data. It may give you some extra bullet options that are not in the Hornady book.
Slugging the bore is as easy as using a soft lead round ball used for muzzle loading and hammering it into the muzzle with a plastic or brass mallet. When it has a depression in the center with a rim around where the barrel crown is then switch to a 3/8 wood dowel to punch the slug deeper and break away the ring at the crown. Tap it right through to the frame where you've already removed the cylinder. The times I've done this I like to slick up the bore with a bit of oil or grease before hand just for an inch or so in from the muzzle. This helps ensure the slug doesn't try to gall on the steel of the bore.
If you do this the first pass is one which will tell you a lot about your barrel. Once the slug is free of the muzzle ring tap it along with light blows for a couple of inches then switch to moving it by hand. Push it through slowly and feel for the drag. In particular watch as it passes through the frame area for any signs of a little more resistance. Hopefully it'll be free the whole way. But if it has a slight increase in resistance at the frame area just before it comes out the forcing cone you've got a slight bit of bore crush. This isn't uncommon in Rugers. In some cases depending on the ammo and bullet it can lead to a reduction in accuracy. It's not something most of us notice at 10 yards but it may show up at 25. Even there it's not a lot but you may find that it just does not want to shoot as small a group as guns you'll get later on. If you find this to be the case then there are some options. But that's for later. For now you've got plenty enough to do.
It seems there are only 200g and 255 g lead bullets available . Checked higgensons and budget . I'm satisfied with the the 255 g bullets,so I'll stick with them. I've also found some trail boss. I'm going to keep it stock for awhile, try some hand loads , then maybe I'll do some work on the blade ( I'm in no hurry). Is slugging the barrel a urgent concern for me right now, or can it wait awhile.
BC , my impacts were all on center of target at 10 yards , POI was POA. I think I've got the sights figured out. ( for 10 yards)
IF you are POA at 10 yards, I would expect it to shoot HIGHER at 20 or 25 yards. Hang a sheet of cardboard behind the target, so you can see where the hits are if they miss paper.
Take different weights of bullets and see if one weight is closer to POA.
Maybe I have it mixed up or am explaining it wrong. At. 10 yards I have to line the top of the blade , up with the v notch , closest to the hammer. When I move back to 25 yards I have to lift the barrel so that the blade is in the center of the v notch. Wouldn't that mean that if I use the same blade alignment as at 10 yards, I would be hitting low? Or am I just not understanding POA/ POI?
Lol , thank god I got that figured out. My v notch and front post looks like a W at roughly 10 yards , when I move back to 25 yards and use the W , I don't know where they're hitting ( low I suspect). Because I have to lift the muzzle up so that the post is half way in the V. So all I'm asking is, if I want to sight in for 25 yards , do I file the blade down to look like a W at 25 yards ? I know I will still have blade left at greater distance but run out of blade at shorter distance . Most of my shooting will be at 15,25 and 50 yards . More so at the 25 yrd mark. So should I file it down for 25 yards , or leave it as it is ? What do most people do? I know what you mean by it looking like W , I get it zeroed at say 25 yards , then aim high at greater distance and low at shorter distance , right. Sorry if I'm a PITA... Lol.
Last edited:
Brianma65,
Slugging means,you drive a lead bullet or ball down your barrel that just wont fit into the bore with a wooden dowel or a brass rod,when it comes out it shows your actual caliber by diameter... and go from there what your bullet diameter for reloading should be.
Tip on the leather: A real good fit can be obtained when you soak it in water,wrap your gun in cling wrap or another thin plastic foil,stick it in the holster and let it dry...slowly. (circulating air oven at lowest setting,or place it on the heater in the basement) That will take more than 24hrs,but it will be a perfect fit and stays that way.Wax it when dry.
CG
Slugging means,you drive a lead bullet or ball down your barrel that just wont fit into the bore with a wooden dowel or a brass rod,when it comes out it shows your actual caliber by diameter... and go from there what your bullet diameter for reloading should be.
Tip on the leather: A real good fit can be obtained when you soak it in water,wrap your gun in cling wrap or another thin plastic foil,stick it in the holster and let it dry...slowly. (circulating air oven at lowest setting,or place it on the heater in the basement) That will take more than 24hrs,but it will be a perfect fit and stays that way.Wax it when dry.
CG
Technically it might. But the difference is more than likely going to be hidden by the group dispersion due to an actual human holding onto the gun instead of a ransom rest. At least I've never seen any noticeable difference between any of my handguns from 7 to 30 yards other than my .38Spl which is only good to 20 to 25 tops then begins to need some rise in the sighting picture. But the .38's are a bit lazy so I'm not surprised.
Brian, if you're noticing bullet drop between a perfect POI to POA at 10 yards and the 25 yard setting I'm thinking that you've got some VERY light cowboy action loads. I know that .45Colt isn't a speed demon but there's just no way you should be seeing any significant bullet drop over that distance.
Anyway you've got the right idea to do nothing with a file until you test some ammo loads. It's easier to take it off than to put it back on after all...
By the way, regardless of anything else you do to a leather holster DO NOT EVER use anything like neatsfoot oil or any other oil on the leather. Same with anything for garments that are saying they'll make the leather soft and supple. Soft and supple is the LAST thing you want for a holster.
This is getting confusing. There is only one way to aim a gun. Aim it properly, tell us where it hits at each distance, then we can talk.
As said above. The sight picture is a W.
Aim properly, shoot it at 25 yards, and tell us where it hits.
I'll do as you said ,with a piece of cardboard. I know that you have to keep the sight the same, (w at all distances). Just saying when I did that at 25 yrds , I don't know what I was hitting, I just assumed it was low. So instead of aiming above the bullseye (holdover),I just tilted the gun until I got on the target ( ( I now understand this is not the proper way).
Anyway I have another box of the rem 250g and I've decided to try the 230g projectiles for my reloads. I'll do the cardboard test you mentioned and let you know how it goes.Thanks ....Brian .. Oh and the lube idea works awesome
255 is close enough to 250 that you can consider them the same.
There's a good chance the 200's will be light enough that their POI will be noticeably lower. But if you can swing it I'd go for some of each to see for yourself and to play with the loads.
There's a good chance the 200's will be light enough that their POI will be noticeably lower. But if you can swing it I'd go for some of each to see for yourself and to play with the loads.
I got out again today,winds were around 70 kmh , so it was pushing the gun around. I was not using the sights correctly , my first time out. After getting advice from here and using my sights correctly , my POA / POI is the same at 10/25 yards . My bad, and thanks for the tips . Here a pic of my target at 10 and 25 yards . The holes with the circle are 25 yards , the others are at 10 yards . As you can see , I need a lot more practice here's one more 5 shot group ,25 yards , arm is rested on a table.Attachments
Last edited:
