Tried to pound off my flash suppressor tonight.

leonard

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yea so i got the castle nut loose , the set screw was basically stripped from factory but i figured a way to tap that back out.

those were not the issue.

now getting the welds to pop loose or the flash suppressor to even budge with a hammer and a piece of steel.

Yea that thing ain't budging.

Hopefully a Clinic pops up around here sometime soon that or i figure out a better way to do this.

I have a feeling this is going to be one of those that break before they give.
 
They can be a #####. The last one I did we used a 5 lb sledge, and a price of 2" heavy angle iron to get it off.
Basically, you want the nut loose so you can tell if it is starting to move. Had the rifle cradled in my knees to allow the flash hider to come free from the blows. I held the angle iron so it rested on the hider while another guy pounded it with the hammer. Just held it clear of the barrel so it wouldn't get hit, and pounded away.
It finally broke free, but I was just about to give up.
You can figure it out. It's not hard, just difficult.
 
Jesus Chrust man, drill the spot welds a bit!
Don't go through obviously. but use a nice big metal cutting bit and drill straight into the weld spots.
Even if you just go into them 1/32 of an inch or less it will drastically weaken them.
That's what I had to do and then it just took one or two good solid hits with a normal hammer to break them.
 
All it takes is for you to hit it harder...try a bigger hammer and I found it helps if the barrel is secured facing downwards ...HIT THAT THING >>LOL. Even if the flashider breaks or cracks where it was spot welded you can still use the flashider if you wanted.
 
I couldn't see the spot welds on mine. I ended up securing the rifle upside down, then using a piece of square tubing against the bayonet lug and took some amazingly hard blows on via a 2lbs hammer wailing on the square tube.
 
Back in the early fall I was helping a fellow nutter remove the FH on his '07 m-305. It was a bear!

2"X1"x 48" piece of flat bar, 10# hammer and we had to pre load the FH by turning the castle nut so that it was pushing the FH off. Whacked it 12-15 times with that before we finally broke the welds.

The last one I did, for myself, all I had to do was threaten the FH with a cold chisel and a 16oz ball peen hammer and "pop" off it came......

Consistent they ain't!

If you want to save the FH, get a bigger hammer. If you are planning on tossing it anyway, drill the welds.

Cheers!
 
Just saw a brand new M305 2014 dated, at my local gun store, and there was no spot welds. There was 2 small holes where the spot welds would go but no drilling or welding marks at all. Flash suppressor came right off.
 
I had the same issue with my 2007 Norc. I tried hammering on the FH with a large chisel on the back of the bayo lug stub with the barrel secured in a vice and it would not budge. So I ended up using a bright light to find the two spot welds (if you use a bright light on the bottom of the FH you will be able to see them faintly) and drilling them out. You don't really need to worry about drilling into the barrel as the you will see a line between the barrel and FH when you drill through and the barrel is a much harder steel than the welds of the FH so you will feel the difference when you reach the barrel. After I drilled through the spot welds, I still had a hell of time knocking off the flash hider but it came off with the chisel on the bayo lug in a vice. After I removed the FH, I had two lumps left over from the weld that I had grind down to make them level with the barrel. I cold blued the two spots once I was happy that the spots were nice and flush with the barrel and installed my new FH. As much as I love the Norc's, I despise two parts - the FH (all 8 of the ones I had were canted/uneven) and the stocks - I don't know what Chu Wood is but it just plain sucks.
 
Yea i think ill wait until i have a replacement Flash hider in hand before i do more to this.
I have a feeling its gonna be messed right up.
 
Yea i think ill wait until i have a replacement Flash hider in hand before i do more to this.
I have a feeling its gonna be messed right up.
Go for it man !! The very worst is the bottom area where it is spot welded might crack or break free . After clean up the barrel area a bit if needed with a file the reattach the broken flashider using the original castle nut again.I have changed about 20 of them and cracked 1 .
 
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