Tried to pound off my flash suppressor tonight.

there are instructions on the web by Gunsmith Rod Hendrickson on how to make a tool to remove the flash hider via screw power. I will see if I can find it again.

I would be very interested to see this. Paired with drilling the welds, this would be a much nicer way of doing it. Gonna be taking o e of for a buddy soon as his parts come in.
 
Bro I have a couple spares, one is off center so your front iron sight post will be crooked. The other one is slightly crooked and the bullet makes slight contact with it.

The first one you could just chop off the iron sight if you're using a scope, the second one could be bored out I'm guessing.

I have no use for these and I can ship it on my dime if you're willing to tinker to make them work.
 
Jesus Chrust man, drill the spot welds a bit!
Don't go through obviously. but use a nice big metal cutting bit and drill straight into the weld spots.
Even if you just go into them 1/32 of an inch or less it will drastically weaken them.
That's what I had to do and then it just took one or two good solid hits with a normal hammer to break them.

screw 2 2x4s together....use hole saw to drill through center of 2x4s....remove screws and clamp around barrel.....put in vise to support...orient barrel upside down and look for spot welds....use 1/4" bit and drill in center of spots ...dont go through to barrel...flash hider should come off with hammer and piece of flat iron bar very easily..back nut up as you go....go slow
 
I took mine over to one of the last clinics .45ACPKING held down here in the LMD. We ALL tried to get mine off, but couldn't get it to budge. Tried heat, bigger hammers, chisels etc.... Finally had to carefully cut it with a cutting blade on the Dremel and then whacked it off. What an embuggerance!
 
I'm having flashbacks of Barney yelling "now put your purse down and hit it for real!" ;)

Last clinic in Owen Sound we had some mixed results. A lot popped right off but one guy's rifle had about 1/4 the circumference of the FH still stuck to the barrel. Someone had a dremel and some metal files and luckily the guy had a SA flash hider to go on so he was fixed before he left. The thing a clinic really does is encourage you when the going get's tough.

I think I'll stick to my Garands. No pounding required.

Yes, glad your rifle costing 2 - 3x more didn't required 1 hour max. of work. :nest:
 
I used a dremel tool and carefully ground material above both spot welds. It came off after a few whacks with a BFH. I did however put the barrel into a barrel vise to hold it steady and supported the barrel so it would not move or bend when I whacked the suppressor. It came off easy. BFH big F###en hammer
 
These days I prefer to use the air tool flex cable and a 1/8th round nose reamer bit. It's like a dremel on steroids and makes quick work of removing the welds.
The "use a bigger hammer method", tho mocked on the practical machinist forum, is the down n dirty method which is effective and suits the clinic environment perfectly. That and 100's of flash hiders have been removed this way and nobody's #### fell off. LOL
 
Man, I'm kinda glad that I got out of the M305 game years ago.

:runaway:

It only gets crazier! :)

Ha ha ha

Truth be told, the M14 journey for all of us just does not seem to end. Here's why I say this... Thomas or 45acpking is brilliant. He convinced me (all subconsciously, of course) that the LRB is eventual and inevitable. He was right. I have one now! It was just a matter of selling off all kinds of other firearms I have not got time for, you know, those safe queens; then once I sold them off, the LRB appeared! My wife likes that idea, fewer firearms, but the really desireable ones remain... :)

In all my cross country journeys over the years (I am heading out this August once again 2015), I've learned to improvise and step up the Bubba and Welfare approach to busting off these welded on FS units. I finally bought a Mac's Trail DVise for the business and it attaches to my 2" receiver hitch. Works really well on the back of my Tacoma... even screwed on several barrels at the Burlington and now Port Elgin Clinic. Yeah, it was minus 12 degrees, but we got 'er done! :cool:

We really have tried all kinds of simplistic approaches to removing the FS units, many of them have been uber simple and others have been quite destructive (angle grinder ... CFB Petawawa and cut off saw ... that was in Edmonton's Spruce Grove Clinic 2008). And some of them have been really illegal: piece of birch from Fort MakeMoney clinic that I smuggled into Dundurn, SK clinic back in 2012. Oh yeah, I've used this same piece of birch at the Owen Sound clinic and burned that piece of birch. :)

Yeah, it's bubba gunsmithing at it's best but it sure was funny. It's been a great journey over the years and it ain't gonna end for a while! :wave:

Thanks and warmest regards for all those laughs over the years.... oh yeah, I'm over the 50 clinic mark this winter....

Barney
 
:runaway:

Truth be told, the M14 journey for all of us just does not seem to end. Here's why I say this... Thomas or 45acpking is brilliant. He convinced me (all subconsciously, of course) that the LRB is eventual and inevitable. He was right. I have one now! It was just a matter of selling off all kinds of other firearms I have not got time for, you know, those safe queens; then once I sold them off, the LRB appeared! My wife likes that idea, fewer firearms, but the really desireable ones remain... :)

I'm not surprised you eventually bought an LRB. They make a fantastic rifle and it's extremely close to mil-spec, unlike the SAs.

I'm excited to hear if you have a clinic in Edmonton soon. I'm hoping to build a Vietnam era M25 clone. If you have any suggestions on where to get a nice walnut stock please post it up! I've built a couple of M14s, but would always appreciate tips!

I'm working on that with my guns too, trying to get down to the following:

  • M14
  • Tactical Precision Rifle (ideally a Mausingfield if I can ever import one - I'll build it as a 260)
  • Pistol (M&P Compact)
  • Sporting Clays Shotgun
  • Hunting Shotgun (CZ Ultralight)
  • AR15 (Aero Precision 16")
  • .22lr rifle to train new shooters with

Back to topic: I've found that on new M305's I've been able to use my hand built castle nut wrench and turn the threads to pop the flash suppressor welds off. The angle grinder works good too, but it's destructive if the flash hider is going to get reused.
 
I'm not surprised you eventually bought an LRB. They make a fantastic rifle and it's extremely close to mil-spec, unlike the SAs.

I'm excited to hear if you have a clinic in Edmonton soon. I'm hoping to build a Vietnam era M25 clone. If you have any suggestions on where to get a nice walnut stock please post it up! I've built a couple of M14s, but would always appreciate tips!

I'm working on that with my guns too, trying to get down to the following:

  • M14
  • Tactical Precision Rifle (ideally a Mausingfield if I can ever import one - I'll build it as a 260)
  • Pistol (M&P Compact)
  • Sporting Clays Shotgun
  • Hunting Shotgun (CZ Ultralight)
  • AR15 (Aero Precision 16")
  • .22lr rifle to train new shooters with

Back to topic: I've found that on new M305's I've been able to use my hand built castle nut wrench and turn the threads to pop the flash suppressor welds off. The angle grinder works good too, but it's destructive if the flash hider is going to get reused.


Pics of wrench & idea of what was used in design please!!
 
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