Norinco 7.62x39 Corrosive?

A good friend told me if you think you have shot corrosive ammo in your prized firearm the tear it apart and clean it with Windex or another window cleaner with ammonia D. I had someof the so called Norinco non corrosive stuff back in the 1980ties and it corroded a part of a rifle I had . so now I am sceptic of any ammo that comes from the Orient and I always treat all such ammo as I would with any corrosive ammo.
 
Norinco 7.62x39 Corrosive?


Who cares? Cheap ammo and a few minutes to clean your rifle is half the cost. You're not buying match loads here. Shoot whats cheapest.
 
mpriddle said:
How is a nail test done ??
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You pull the bullet, dump the powder, place the casing over a nail, take a hammer and punch, then strike the primer to get it to go off on the nail, if the nail rusts in a short amount of time then its corrosive. Its best to do the test with multiple casings at least 10. Some people have gotten results where some of them are non-corrosive and some are. Its also best to have a known corrosive case and a known non corrosive case when doing the test in order to have something to compare it too. Also, if the nail is Zinc coated, its best to sand the zinc coating off as this will give mixed results as well. You could do it with a screw too just make sure the screw isn't stainless steal or painted. Its got to be bare metal just like the inside of a non chrome lined barrel would be. The nail is nice simply because its cheap and the casing fits over it easily.
 
before striking the primer , I would cut the casing on one side for gas to escape and dont have the nail head too close to the primer .

make sure the nail is well driven into the wood .

ofcos don't forget your safety google.
 
cement head said:
A good friend told me if you think you have shot corrosive ammo in your prized firearm the tear it apart and clean it with Windex or another window cleaner with ammonia D.
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If I had a dollar for every time I heard this wives' tale about ammonia I'd have enough to supply myself with match grade ammo for a year.

What cleans the rifle when you use Windex is the water, not ammonia.
 
GunsNotPuns said:
If I had a dollar for every time I heard this wives' tale about ammonia I'd have enough to supply myself with match grade ammo for a year.

What cleans the rifle when you use Windex is the water, not ammonia.
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I'm not sure what the primer compound is. But if it was acidic, then the ammonia would neutralize it since its a base. That's only assuming the primer is acidic. Either way, the Windex method, I've done it and it works but, it still doesn't work as well as boiling hot water.
 
I have a question about corrosive ammo. Not the chemistry behind how things rust, but why is some ammo corrosive and others not? does it have anything to do with extended storage? weather differential usage? or just an outdated form of manufacturing? cost to produce? I guess my question would be what is the benefit of corrosive ammo?
 
sclifford said:
I have a question about corrosive ammo. Not the chemistry behind how things rust, but why is some ammo corrosive and others not? does it have anything to do with extended storage? weather differential usage? or just an outdated form of manufacturing? cost to produce? I guess my question would be what is the benefit of corrosive ammo?
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It is not "corrosive" It is "salty". The old style primers leave a salt deposit in the barrel. This attracts moisture and rust follows. A quick rinse with hot water (piss will work) washes away the salt. A normal cleaning and oil will finish the clean up.

I think the reason for the corrosive primers in the 40's was that the primers had a good long storage life, whereas the new non-corrosive did not.

I assume (but don't know) that all military ammo is now made with non-corrosive primers.
 
Mumbles Marble Mouth said:
I'm not sure what the primer compound is. But if it was acidic, then the ammonia would neutralize it since its a base. That's only assuming the primer is acidic. Either way, the Windex method, I've done it and it works but, it still doesn't work as well as boiling hot water.
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Corrosive primers are potassium chlorate based. Their advantage is they less sensitive to environmental factors ruining them, so they were chosen for their long life and high chance of utility after decades of storage. Which of course is good for us who like to shoot ammo various militaries around the world have surplussed for cheap.

When they ignite they make potassium chloride among other salts, essentially all of which are corrosive and hygroscopic (water absorbing). Leave the salts in your barrel, they attracts water from the atmosphere, and bingo you get corrosion happening in a hurry.

Water readily dissolves they salts and is the easiest way to get rid of them.
 
MauserMike said:
Corrosive primers are potassium chlorate based. Their advantage is they less sensitive to environmental factors ruining them, so they were chosen for their long life and high chance of utility after decades of storage. Which of course is good for us who like to shoot ammo various militaries around the world have surplussed for cheap.

When they ignite they make potassium chloride among other salts, essentially all of which are corrosive and hygroscopic (water absorbing). Leave the salts in your barrel, they attracts water from the atmosphere, and bingo you get corrosion happening in a hurry.

Water readily dissolves they salts and is the easiest way to get rid of them.
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Perfect, I just found out a lot about corrosive primers simply by you telling me it was Potassium Chloride. I'm going to mark that down. Its now no wonder the boiling hot water method works so well as its solubility in water is much better at higher temperatures. (50gr per 100ml of H2O at 100 degrees vs 3gr per 100ml of H2O at 0 degrees.) Not to mention the gun drys almost instantly because of the water being so hot. It mentions that ClKO3 is soluble in Ammonia and Acetone but its negligible. Much less than 1.0gr per 100ml.
 
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