De activation question.

lupothebutcher

lupothebutcher

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Hi,
I have a question for the experts; I've tried looking but cannot find the info.... can someone please explain, "in a nutshell" kind of way, or link me to the info....What is the difference between the old style deactivation and current deactivation criteria? In particular relating to light full auto and sub machine guns.I gather that old style is more desirable because it is #### and click and not so un sightly.

thanks for any help.
 
Old style, some parts moved. New criteria, a solid welded piece of metal
The sad thing is, the old style dewat was trashed as far as bringing it back goes but that just wasn't good enough.
 
Most who have handled new style deacts (welded up solid) will agree....a gun on which you can't rack the action at least isn't worth the same.

As in close to worthless IMHO. Might as well have a picture of it on the wall.

Look at the succession of AK74's that have gone through the EE. People got them, tried to rack it....damn, welded up solid. On the EE it goes.
 
its funny they keep making new rules and stuff harder to do when it comes to firearms. I think the government would be happy if someone wanted to deactivate a prohibited weapon? why make it so its not appealing to anyone anymore.
 
I own four Dewat firearms, 2 are #### and click, one has a movable charging handle and trigger, and one is solid except trigger and magazine. Of the 4, the last one is my favourite. The novelty of #### and click is great at first but eventually you stop playing with it. The condition of the firearm and quality of the deactivation welding, etc is more important in my opinion. To put it another way: a good quality solid deactivation is better than a hack job C&C.
 
Tom E Gun said:
I own four Dewat firearms, 2 are #### and click, one has a movable charging handle and trigger, and one is solid except trigger and magazine. Of the 4, the last one is my favourite. The novelty of #### and click is great at first but eventually you stop playing with it. The condition of the firearm and quality of the deactivation welding, etc is more important in my opinion. To put it another way: a good quality solid deactivation is better than a hack job C&C.
Click to expand...

I agree. These 'guns' are just collectible paperweights, couldn't care less if it 'cocks n clicks' or not. Just a display piece and nothing more.

I never understood the big deal about being able to move the action but that's just me.

Regards,
-Steve
 
I perceive a big difference in value....I'll give you $200 for any desirable deact that is welded up solid. (desirable as in something I'd want to own)

Early spec? Worth a lot more...to me.

Not all will agree.

As for ugly, visible welds...they ruin the gun.

Some very careful deacts have virtually invisible welds.
Most of the welds are hidden inside and you might see a pin through the chamber from the bottom with a very neat Tig weld only.

Now you're talking.
 
Again, Vickers, Bren, Lewis, STEN, and they ALL work! Nice part about living in Arizona:d
However I don't have any live ammo for the PIAT or the 2 inch mortar (just dummy rounds)
 
John Sukey said:
Again, Vickers, Bren, Lewis, STEN, and they ALL work! Nice part about living in Arizona:d
However I don't have any live ammo for the PIAT or the 2 inch mortar (just dummy rounds)
Click to expand...


WELL, a good day it's will be a BBQ in your erea.

AND, you will have to bring your guns.

We will pay the ammo. LOL
 
The whole subject of deactivated sub-guns and light machine guns is very personal subject.
Some people consider them as ‘useless paper weights’ and others consider them historical collectable pieces.

The ‘#### and click’ older deactivation may be more popular because of the moving action however I believe that original clear markings with original finish is also important.
You will not sit and ‘#### and click’ a deactivated gun for very long.
It is possibly a ‘mind thing’.

Given our Canadian laws---if these guns were ‘live’ you could not shoot them.

They are display pieces in a collection as examples of guns that were used in full auto ‘once upon a time’.

I have recently sold a 12(3) and a ‘#### and click’ MP44----same price.
(For they that think that deactivated guns are worth more that 12(3) s)

I still have two 12(3)s left in my collection and I currently feel that they will eventually be sold as 12(3)s and not be deactivated under the current deactivation requirements.

Just my thoughts.

The '#### and click' MP44.



The 12(3) converted auto MP44.



My two remaining 12(3) converted autos to semi-automatic smgs.

Russian WWII PPSh-41 smg dated 1943.



British Lanchester Mk 1* smg manufactured in 1942 by Sterling Engineering Co. Ltd.

 
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I don't really see a difference I just don't like to see the welds but the prices are unrealistic id pay about half of what a live gun cost that said id much rather have pieces of history deactivated then sent to the smelter
 
John Sukey said:
Again, Vickers, Bren, Lewis, STEN, and they ALL work! Nice part about living in Arizona:d
However I don't have any live ammo for the PIAT or the 2 inch mortar (just dummy rounds)
Click to expand...

yeah and how much did all those guns cost I could start a business tomorrow get the proper license($$$$$) and still come in cheaper I bet
 
drm3m said:
British Lanchester Mk 1* smg manufactured in 1942 by Sterling Engineering Co. Ltd.

Click to expand...

That Lanchester would look very nice with my Commonwealth collection, and I have my 12(3). If you are planning to get rid of it, I am always open to Christmas/birthday/anniversary gifts from people I don't know! I would even pay the shipping.
 
antiqueguy said:
yeah and how much did all those guns cost I could start a business tomorrow get the proper license($$$$$) and still come in cheaper I bet
Click to expand...

And how much do you think they would sell for in the US? I would suggest that they are worth a LOT more than what John paid for them.

Why don't you start your business tomorrow? And if you can get the appropriate licence, what would you do with the things? John can take his out and shoot them when and where he pleases.
 
myenfield,

I you want to sent me a pm with your e-mail address I will know where to find you.

I want to keep one 12(3) in order to maintain my licence in this converted auto category.

In as much as I have not given it very much thought, my first inclination would be to part with the PPSh-41 and hold on to the Lanchester.

I am going through a bit of ‘collector’s whiplash’ as I have made deals on three guns recently.
The buyer of the ‘#### and click’ MP44 just received his new gun today.

This 12(3) MP40 is going to the same purchaser as the 12(3) MP44.

 
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here is a couple of my deacts. the FAL was an old #### and click. done over 10 years ago. the AK I had deactivated for me about 6 years ago and the bolt moves but does not #### or click. also the mag with it is pinned so its not deactivated.

to AnGuy I agree about the prices being abit high on the deacts. it only cost me $100 to get the AK deactivated. if you add that to the price of the gun fine but with some guns guys want way way to much. you better off to find a guy with a prohib licence to buy you a gun and then get another guy to deactivate it.



 
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