Advice Regarding Tacticooling Tavor...

'Looks', highly overrated, KISS, add stuff that works, besides, when it comes time to sell, who wants your custom bits? I want my own custom bits.......which LOOK even kewler.
onetwentyish said it all 'lol'
 
For all the money you are throwing at all these cosmetic stuff, get a match trigger instead. That will be something that actually makes a difference.
 
For all the money you are throwing at all these cosmetic stuff, get a match trigger instead. That will be something that actually makes a difference.

This. The Tavor's weak point is the trigger. It is terrible. The only trigger I've experienced that's worse is the VP70. Get a good drop in trigger, and there seem to be a number of options now, and the rifle is pretty HSLD out of the box.
 
This. The Tavor's weak point is the trigger. It is terrible. The only trigger I've experienced that's worse is the VP70. Get a good drop in trigger, and there seem to be a number of options now, and the rifle is pretty HSLD out of the box.

And the T97, that is a horrible trigger.
 
It's difficult to determine exactly when the trigger on the T97 will break without practice, but it's very light and very smooth. I actually prefer it to the stock trigger on the Tavor.

Keep in mind that when we talk about "stock triggers" in the Tavor, we're all talking about different things. The trigger you get in a gun off the shelf today is a very different creature than the one in my early import gun. Beyond the trigger pack assembly and springs, even the physical trigger is different.

If you look at the biiig version of this image you can see the flat faced trigger that was part of the original imports. Compare that to the rounded one that's likely in your LGS.

 
Forget the tacticool crap. If you got money to burn, spend it on an upgraded trigger, a quality optic like a Leupold MK IV, Elcan Spectre, S&B Short Dot, etc.(no cheap POS Chinese crap) Add a half dozen reliable magazines and as much American black eagle ammo as you can afford and hit the range. Look to the IDF, their rifles aren't festooned by pounds of superfluous accessories.
 
Dunno, I don't think a compensator or a forend is necessarily tacticool crap. I agree that a optic and then a trigger should be the priority tho.
 
Does a flash hider also help with muzzle rise if one of the three prongs is facing downward and the other two prongs are on the left and right on top?
 
I find the fore end helps at the range gives me more space up front to get bags underneath in a comfortable position. If the man wants lights and lasers let him get them, I'm a paper puncher and on occasion gopher hunter so lights and muzzle breaks seem unnecessary. Same could be said for the 3000 dollar rifle To shoot gophers but to each their own.
 
Does a flash hider also help with muzzle rise if one of the three prongs is facing downward and the other two prongs are on the left and right on top?

If it a flash hider is what it was designed to be, that is likely 90%+ what it will do.

If its a designed as a brake, thats what it will do 90%+.

If its disigned as a comp, thats about 90%+ what it will do.

Imagine a triangle diagram, each point represents a particular design feature (Brake, Comp, Flash Suppression). Now draw a point in the center of your triangle as a marker of the capability of your bare barrel with no muzzle device. Now take the marker and mark where on the Diagram you want to be to determine what your looking for.

Its largely give and take. Brakes spit fire but reduce recoil, flash hiders dont give much (if any) added control but con almost completely mitigate muzzle flash, comps dont flash suppress or really help recoil but does certainly mitigate muzzle movement.
 
It sounds like for crown land daytime shooting a compensator is my best bet. I don't need recoil reduction on a .223.

Will a compensator make it much loser like a brake would? What do you guys recommend for available compensators that also look good?
 
I am currently running a Ares Armor Effin-A MKII Tuneable comp, but I look forward to trying a Lantac Dragon or Surefire brake at some point.

Its important to note that my above explanation isn't entirely correct, there are some exceptions, but it helps you kind of figure out the general direction you want to go.
 
Yeah, there is some brake/compensator overlap, and there are hybrids... But flash suppression is best done by a dedicated suppressor.

The surefire sure looks ###y but isn't cheap!
 
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