There is a good post on making it in the sticky at the top of the bullet making forum
Johnson paste wax
- Thread starter Ruger1962
- Start date
There is a good post on making it in the sticky at the top of the bullet making forum
This is tuesday.
Don't get that confused with Ex-Lax!!! The bullets will turn to liquid and start spraying out of your barrel.
I believe the new reg's started last fall.
maltextract
Regular
- Location
- Rural Manitoba
Lee valley tools
Actual Johnson's Pate Wax is not available new in Canada anymore unless found as very old stock in a store. SC Johnson decided to stop exporting it and Johnson's One Step No Buf Floor Wax to Canada about 10 years ago. Once the old stock dried up, it became unobtanium. I have, as previously posted, used MinWax paste wax for 45-45-10 (Recluse lube) successfully.
I've since moved on to "Ben's Liquid Lube" for lower velocity stuff like pistol ammunition. Also very good for coating fully lubed boollits that use softer lube. It protects the lube and also makes a great lube for the ogive on bore rider designs. I find it works well for Loverin designs that I fill all the lube grooves on but have some exposed after seating. A tumble of "BLL" prevents any dirt or crud from sticking to the exposed lube in the grooves. Ben's Liquid Lube is a 60/40 mix of Alox and Johnson's One Step No Buff Floor Wax. It mixes very well and a tiny amount goes a long way. I really like it. When used properly, you cannot see it on the boolits and it works well enough for no leading in my 9mm CX4 full power loads (Lee 356-95-RF over 8.8gr of Blue Dot-use at own risk, not a max load in my rifle). It dries much faster then 45/45/10 and dries hard. The boolits are not sticky after, just slick and "waxy" feeling, similar to waxed 22LR. I mixed 8oz of Lee liquid alox (2 bottles) with 5.5oz of Johnson's liquid wax which I purchased off of amazon.com (2 x 22oz bottles for just under $30 shipped). I put them in an empty 1L trans fluid bottle I cleaned out with brake cleaner. I dropped one of my culled Lee 9mm boolits in the bottle to act as an agitator. Shalke for 1 minute and it's fully mixed. Every time you go to use it after, just shake for 10 seconds prior to use. I used a pointy pour nozzle like the kind that comes on gear oil bottles for a lid, and poked a tiny hole in the tip with a pin and worked it around to slightly enlarge the hole. The lube comes out in drips with slight squeezing. about 6 drops will fully coat about 100 of the little 9mm boolits described above. When dry, you cannot see it. If you can see any lube on the boolits, you used too much. Some stuff I learned is only use it in a clean tumble container as I used it in my regular tumble container that had lots of dried LLA inside it. Well, the solvent in the floor wax completely emulsified the LLA and I wound up with way too much alox on my forst batch of boolits. You also can't put more than 1 coating on as the subsequent applications re-liquify the first coat and you wind up with excess lube in the container. Also don't try and use it as a second coat over previously tumble lubed boolits as the same result will occur as my first try in a well coated container.
I've since moved on to "Ben's Liquid Lube" for lower velocity stuff like pistol ammunition. Also very good for coating fully lubed boollits that use softer lube. It protects the lube and also makes a great lube for the ogive on bore rider designs. I find it works well for Loverin designs that I fill all the lube grooves on but have some exposed after seating. A tumble of "BLL" prevents any dirt or crud from sticking to the exposed lube in the grooves. Ben's Liquid Lube is a 60/40 mix of Alox and Johnson's One Step No Buff Floor Wax. It mixes very well and a tiny amount goes a long way. I really like it. When used properly, you cannot see it on the boolits and it works well enough for no leading in my 9mm CX4 full power loads (Lee 356-95-RF over 8.8gr of Blue Dot-use at own risk, not a max load in my rifle). It dries much faster then 45/45/10 and dries hard. The boolits are not sticky after, just slick and "waxy" feeling, similar to waxed 22LR. I mixed 8oz of Lee liquid alox (2 bottles) with 5.5oz of Johnson's liquid wax which I purchased off of amazon.com (2 x 22oz bottles for just under $30 shipped). I put them in an empty 1L trans fluid bottle I cleaned out with brake cleaner. I dropped one of my culled Lee 9mm boolits in the bottle to act as an agitator. Shalke for 1 minute and it's fully mixed. Every time you go to use it after, just shake for 10 seconds prior to use. I used a pointy pour nozzle like the kind that comes on gear oil bottles for a lid, and poked a tiny hole in the tip with a pin and worked it around to slightly enlarge the hole. The lube comes out in drips with slight squeezing. about 6 drops will fully coat about 100 of the little 9mm boolits described above. When dry, you cannot see it. If you can see any lube on the boolits, you used too much. Some stuff I learned is only use it in a clean tumble container as I used it in my regular tumble container that had lots of dried LLA inside it. Well, the solvent in the floor wax completely emulsified the LLA and I wound up with way too much alox on my forst batch of boolits. You also can't put more than 1 coating on as the subsequent applications re-liquify the first coat and you wind up with excess lube in the container. Also don't try and use it as a second coat over previously tumble lubed boolits as the same result will occur as my first try in a well coated container.
maltextract
Regular
- Location
- Rural Manitoba
My bad, Lee valley's is blue label paste wax, not Johnsons. It's $23 for a pound.
