Just a question I was hoping someone may have experience with. Have a converted auto M1A1 which I have always wanted to be able to strip. Here is the problem. The usual procedure calls for the selector switch to be set to full auto. The selector is welded in semi position as part of the conversion. When I try to separate the frame/ receiver (carefully as I know this can cause damage) the sear catches the bolt and carries it back compressing the recoil spring thus not allowing it to move rearward enough to go any further. This is while holding back the trigger of course. I have tried to fool the sear by placing a short piece of tubing in the ejection port, keeping the bolt back a fraction of an inch so that the disconnector does not reset the sear. When I try to slide it apart however the sear trips as soon as I get an inch or so back and I am back to square one. Is there some kind of thin shim I can slide in there to keep the sear from catching or am I missing something here? On a side note if there are any of you in the Edmonton area looking to sell any other 12(3) stuff, I am looking so let me know. Any help would be greatly appreciated, regards Al.
Thompson field strip question for any of you 12(3) owners
- Thread starter fantomas
- Start date
I have never encountered that problem, disassembling the frame from the receiver.
When I disassemble. I set the safety to fire, turn the gun upside down, push in the frame latch.
Slide the frame rearwards and upwards, then when the sear contacts the sear notch, I then pull
the trigger. Then the frame and receiver are seperated. I hope that will help you.
When I disassemble. I set the safety to fire, turn the gun upside down, push in the frame latch.
Slide the frame rearwards and upwards, then when the sear contacts the sear notch, I then pull
the trigger. Then the frame and receiver are seperated. I hope that will help you.
To slide the upper off the lower work a thin piece of sheet metal like a feeler gauge between the two to keep the sear depressed (I used a piece of metal strapping but a feeler gauge would no doubt be better)The trick for reassembly was to get the disconnector down low enough to re-mate the upper to lower and that involves using a fine piece of wire (like the locking wire on lead seals) to hold it down and a little brute strength.
Thanks for the replies. Thought about the feeler gauge thing already but figured that one thin enough to fit in between would have to much flex to hold anything down. After seeing this I will have to give it a try. I wonder if all the conversions are done the same. I had already tried upside down, right side up, muzzle down, trigger pulled..... but there was no way I could keep it from picking up the bolt as soon as I started to slide it apart.
The M1A1 Chopper has to be put on FA to field strip. When those were semi'd, long ago, they were welded so that was not possible. Didn't buy one myself for that reason. That one come out of Ontario Sporting Goods(or whatever it was called?). Late of King City then Brampton? Where the owners were murdered about 20 years back.
A feeler gauge is too thin and flexible to pry anything.
A feeler gauge is too thin and flexible to pry anything.
Update. Sunray seems to be right about the feeler gauge thing. The thickest one I could get in there was just pushed out of the way when I released the bolt. I was hoping the bolt would ride over it and the sear as I closed it. So not so much to pry with as to sandwich it in between but no dice. After looking at it again I am unable to see how the fishing line thing could work as the spot where you would need to fish it through is across the frame rails and there is really no openings there. Back to the drawing board.
Get a piece of that thin metal strapping that comes with pallets and such, you have to be able to slide in a piece that can reach the forward arrow head pointing at FIRE. The strapping is stout enough to depress the sear and I seem to recall you had to have about five hands depressing things/inserting things/pulling things apart all at the same time. That is what worked for me and I was able to give the old gun a nice cleaning, cleaned out a outrageous amount of sand also, not dirt, actual sand. Yes and leave the bolt forward when you retry.
i used to use a coat hanger that was about 6 in long with a bend at the end like an L shape.... the long end being 4 in with the bend being 2 in ..the 4 in end i flattened at a small wedge shape about 2 in long and i would work that in from under the ejection port mag well area and this woud get that nasty sear depressed and the gun would come apart .easy peasy
+1. This worked fine with the one I had
