.50 BMG Help

Father Hood

Father Hood

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Hey guys, looking for some help on some .50 BMG reloads I just started. I am puzzled why I am getting primers (CCI 35) backing out after just test firing them alone without any powder or projectile. I was doing this to test the seating of them as I am trying to learn the best way to remove the crimp and uni-forming the primer pocket. As some primers seated quite easily, I was curious if I could get them to seat a little tighter by not working the pocket too much and taking less crimp material away. But no matter what I did, whenever I test fired to just check the firing pin contacting the primer, I noticed the primers were backing out of the case?? I have never had this happen with any other caliber so not sure what is up. The rifle I am using is a LAR Grizzly 50 BMG or some close variant I believe. Not too familiar with these so thought I would mention it in case that had something to do with it.

thanks in advance
 
It happens in most guns because the primer naturally unseat itself when there is no pressure build up from a loaded round. The primer will normally unseat then get released when the case seals and repeats the primer. Absolutly nothing to worry about.

Bidedp51 will be along with animated pictures of what happens.
 
The best way to remove the crimp is with a deburring tool. The test is how easily the new primer goes in.
Sounds like you're over complicating the whole process. A .50 BMG is just big. Isn't any different than a .30-06 to load.
 
sunray said:
The best way to remove the crimp is with a deburring tool. The test is how easily the new primer goes in.
Sounds like you're over complicating the whole process. A .50 BMG is just big. Isn't any different than a .30-06 to load.
Click to expand...

No a deburring tool is not the best way to remove primer pocket crimps. You can purchase reamers or swagers build for this purpose that do a much better job.
 
Primers always pop out when there is no powder charge in the case..
My .45acp does this with primers as well.. It's normal.
 
stubblejumper said:
No a deburring tool is not the best way to remove primer pocket crimps. You can purchase reamers or swagers build for this purpose that do a much better job.
Click to expand...



swagers are not good for precision match brass your much better off using a debur tool or pocket reamer and just take enough of the crimp out so you have a pocket on the tight side. Now you use a cupped seater plug to seat your primers after this you perform a second operation using the flat plug to crush the primer 2/3rds to arm the primer this will ensure consistent ignition. Your primer pockets will also stay tight longer so you can get more reloads out of your brass. You can uniform your pockets but I usually do not just debur the flash hole this is very important. Oh anneal every firing will make the brass last a long time even after multiple times through a Barrett M-82 (brass muncher)
 
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DG Photography said:
swagers are not good for precision match brass your much better off using a debur tool or pocket reamer and just take enough of the crimp out so you have a pocket on the tight side. Now you use a cupped seater plug to seat your primers after this you perform a second operation using the flat plug to crush the primer 2/3rds to arm the primer this will ensure consistent ignition. Your primer pockets will also stay tight longer so you can get more reloads out of your brass. You can uniform your pockets but I usually do not just debur the flash hole this is very important. Oh anneal every firing will make the brass last a long time even after multiple times through a Barrett M-82 (brass muncher)
Click to expand...


If I wanted match brass for precision shooting, I would buy match brass, rather than removing the crimp from military brass.
 
stubblejumper said:
If I wanted match brass for precision shooting, I would buy match brass, rather than removing the crimp from military brass.
Click to expand...

Well that's you most guys are not willing to pay $6 ea. For Lapua Match brass. They can prep cheaper brass to work just like Match brass . I have reloaded for many different .50s including semi autos with excellent results using even the cheapest PMC crap just took more prep.
 
Great feedback guys. I was assuming the .50 was just a big 30-06 so didn't expect this as I don't recall having it happen any other time. I appreciate everyones help and will go forward with completed rounds.

thanks again :)
 
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