Reloading .303 Enfield No4 "T"

Great Crouton

Regular
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Location
Calgary
Can someone remind what the method is for determining if case head separation is beginning in a case?

I've been led to understand that some Enfields can do this to a case as early as the first firing.

Bit of a drag as I have 200+ pieces of Federal brass (1x fired) for this old war vet and I really don't want to take any chances with it as it's a complete rifle with matching serial #'s all the way down to the scope and scope rings.

I had hoped to find another Enfield at this point but they are becoming rare it would seem.
 
I have just had a couple enfields rebuilt and I am new to reloading .
On my 1st reloads I had a couple separated casings and was told I should only neck size instead of full length resize them.
After visually looking for a ring near the base I straighten out a paper clip and have the end at a right angle. I rub that on the inside of the shell to feel for a ridge building up .
 
As I do with mine, if you buy once fired, as every chamber is slightly different, is to do a full resize once so it conforms to your gun and then neck size after that. Should not be an issue unless you have headspace issues, then you need to get some headspace gauges and see what's going on. I have never had any separations to date.
 
In the past, I have been lucky enough to get up to 5 reloads out of a case that has been full length resized. I NEVER go to the range to shoot .303 without ensuring that I have a broken case extractor with me. Cheap insurance!
 
Instead of having you FL die adjusted so it hits the shellholder, back it out a couple revs so it clears the shell holder by about the thickness of a nickle.

Size a handful of brass at that setting and make sure they all chamber easily. If they do, use that setting. This will avoid setting the shoulder back and will reduce case stretching.
 
You should also look up the o-ring trick for getting new brass to fit your chamber well. Basically, you put a little rubber o-ring over the case, slid all the way down to the rim. This way, when you close your bolt, it makes sure the case is seated against the boltface. This forces the brass to stretch in the shoulder/neck, which minimizes stretching in the web area.
 
...

Bit of a drag as I have 200+ pieces of Federal brass (1x fired) for this old war vet and I really don't want to take any chances with it as it's a complete rifle with matching serial #'s all the way down to the scope and scope rings.

I had hoped to find another Enfield at this point but they are becoming rare it would seem.

Enfields are rare ?!? There is a finite quantity of No.4 T Enfields (29,000 or so), but millions of common battle rifles. It is your rifle to shoot as you wish, but the rifles aren't the vulnerable part. The 75 year old glues and bonding agents used in the lens assemblies are much more fragile than people realize. There are only a few guys working on No.32 scopes (Wheaty for instance), so if you have a failure you are almost guaranteed to lose $$$$ off the value of the rifle and scope combination.
 
Instead of having you FL die adjusted so it hits the shellholder, back it out a couple revs so it clears the shell holder by about the thickness of a nickle.

Size a handful of brass at that setting and make sure they all chamber easily. If they do, use that setting. This will avoid setting the shoulder back and will reduce case stretching.

Ditto........
 
Whoops, guess I should clarify.....the 200+ pieces of 1x fired brass are from MY rifle. Brand new factory ammunition.

I'm planning on just re-sizing the neck.

Tried the paperclip thing just for S&G's and I can't feel a thing. Only time I could feel a difference was when the wall curved into the base.
The 75 year old glues and bonding agents used in the lens assemblies are much more fragile than people realize.

Hmm, that didn't even cross my mind. Good point.

Ultimately I want to build a secure display case for this rifle and have it proudly hung on my wall. Maybe I should forget about reloading for it until I find one I'm not concerned with damaging.

I'd be devastated if I damaged it somehow.
 
Great Crouton

Below is a new unfired case on the left and a fired case on the right, the biggest problem the Enfield rifle has are cartridge cases not made to military standards. And the sizing dies that are set up for American civilian SAAMI standards. (and a chamber I have never seen)

cases303_zps52504629.jpg


The amount the case is sticking above the Wilson case gauge below is how much longer the Enfield military chamber is. In 1914 the British reamed the chambers larger in diameter and longer in shoulder location to make room for the mud of Flanders fields. (muddy dirty trench warfare)

100_1637_zpsdd85ab06.jpg


Below is a animated illustration of what happens when you fire a civilian .303 cartridge in the military British .303 Enfield chamber. In the photo below I'm holding a fired case in the die with my little finger. Meaning all this die will touch when sized is the shoulder of the case and following this you will need to neck size the case also. If you use a full length resizing die to bump the shoulder back you may over resize the base of the case.

headspacestretch-c_zps8f362fcb.gif


If your serious about reloading the Enfield rifle then the first time you fireform a new case, then slip a small thin rubber O-ring around the rim. This holds the case against the bolt face and keeps the case from stretching.

o-ring_zpsfc086c19.jpg


After the case is fire formed for your chamber then only neck size your cases and let the case headspace on its shoulder and not the rim. Again this method holds the rear of the case against the bolt face to prevent stretching.

zeroheadspace_zpsbaf7579c.jpg


When the case becomes a tight fit and excess force is needed to close the bolt you can use a .303 British case forming and trim die to bump the shoulder back for chamber clearance. The case forming die is oversized and the "fired" case below is being held in position with my little finger. Meaning when the die is setup "only" the shoulder of the case will be touched and not the body of the case or the neck. After bumping the shoulder of the case it will need to be neck sized for proper neck tension.

caseformingdie_zpsd75208f9.jpg


When fire forming your cases with the O-ring make sure you grease the locking lugs to prevent lug wear and do not use too big of an O-ring that excessive force is required to close the bolt. Using the rubber O-ring has the added benefit when being compressed that it centers the rear of the case in the chamber as the O-ring is flattened. This improves case alignment in the rear due to the chambers larger diameter with cases that are minimum base diameter. Meaning better accuracy with your reloaded ammunition.

Now I'm going to go with what maple_leaf_eh said, "There is a finite quantity of No.4 T Enfields (29,000 or so), but millions of common battle rifles". and if it was me I would find another Enfield rifle to shoot.

It is your rifle and you can do as you wish with it, and you will always have collector and shooter opinions in any forum. BUT your rifle has not been in the hands of a trained armourer in a long time and if the wood has dried out you could damage the rifle the first time you pull the trigger.
 
Last edited:
I have just had a couple enfields rebuilt and I am new to reloading .
On my 1st reloads I had a couple separated casings and was told I should only neck size instead of full length resize them.
After visually looking for a ring near the base I straighten out a paper clip and have the end at a right angle. I rub that on the inside of the shell to feel for a ridge building up .
Wait a tick! You say you had a couple of Enfields recently rebuilt AND you had case separations on firing new cases? The shop that rebuilt your rifles didn't adjust headspace? WTF? Take them back and demand proper gun smithing be carried out.
 
Bit late finding this, but...

In my opinion, no reason to park that fine rifle if you want to shoot it. Nothing requires you to hot rod your reloads, and you won't be the first guy shooting a "T" out at the ranges. Not even close. However, I'm one of those guys that thinks old firearms deserve to be fired if they aren't unsafe. My Long Branch gets range time, as does my grandfather's 1895 Winchester and .455 Webley... I appreciate others think they should just be preserved, protected, and admired, but that's not me.

You can go a long way towards dealing with ammunition issues by fitting future new cases to the rifle before first firing. Privy is good brass to start with if you can hunt some down.

Somebody already mentioned using an o-ring ahead of the ring. The other thing I do is expand the case neck using M dies, then neck them back down to .303 until they will just chamber with a light crush fit - this gives you a false shoulder as well as the o-ring support at the rear for the first firing. Centers the brass up pretty good in the chamber for that first firing with centering support at the back and at the front. Once that is done, using a Lee collet sizer die and the full length sizer only when and as much as necessary, you should get good case life from your brass.
 
Back
Top Bottom