Cleaning after shooting corrosive ammo?

Potassium Chloride is barely soluble in ammonia. Its not even worth mentioning. Acetone is more soluble. Water is the most soluble and the higher the temperature of the water, the more soluble it becomes. The most important part is the barrel. Everything else is easily cleaned. I pour boiling hot water down the barrel and gas port and then scrub, pour some more, scrub again, pour even more, and repeat until you notice no more black dirt coming out the barrel in the boiling hot water flush. Once you're done this, the gun doesn't take long to finish cleaning with patches. The water drys quickly but still leaves some water behind in the rifling so I still suggest a dry patch. Cleaning the gas port is tricky. The only thing I use is cotton swabs or the brand name everyone knows is Q-Tips. I always check on the gun for the next 5 days but I have never seen rust afterwards. Back when I did the Windex method, I always had rust afterwards and required a second day of cleaning.
 
Hot Boiling Water!

The point of windex, is not the ammonia to dissolve the salts, but that it helps the water evaporate away, hence no moisture being left behind.
 
Windex contains a light cleaning agent. Combined with that it evaporates quickly (ammonia) and contains mostly water which flushes the salts.

I use it on the bore and gas systems then spray the same areas with a generic oil for the ride home.

At home it gets a whole field strip and cleaning with solvents and oil as per usual.
No hot water used or ever needed when doing this.
 
1] Disassemble rifle [field strip]
2] Small parts in pan of HOT water
3] Lots of very hot water down the barrel and gas tube. Shake off excess or used canned compressed air...the rest should dry off quickly. Same thing with small parts.
4] Spray generously with WD-40 [WD= water displacement...this is what it's actually for]. Pay special attention to the bolt and trigger group where water may lurk. Wipe down with paper towels.
5]Clean and oil as per normal and reassemble.

This sounds a little arduous, but really takes only a few minutes longer than a strip/clean/oil of any semi-auto rifle. A check the next day for any spots of rust is a good idea. Note that atmospheric humidity makes a big difference. If you live on or near the coast/Great Lakes, you need to be more careful than us folk living in drier regions.
 
Hi : Cleaning SKS,Mosins and SVT 40 using corrosive ammo. Remove from the wood. Spray all metal parts and down the barrel liberally with WINDEX . Rinse with hot water, then clean normally and wipe down with oil.
 
run some non corrosive ammo through it right before your done for the day, i usually just spray the hell out of it with windex then spray wd through everything then clean the barrel as any other rifle, takes 10-15 mins maybe.
 
Guys water? Hmmmmmm in East German army you would all get 10 days of arrest or if sergeant felt nice 10 cleaning rods on your back. Use diesel or wd 40, flash the barrel rude diesel or wd 40 through the barrel 100 grams will do, wipe and oil do the same think to the gas port. Water is good but on the musket
 
Had accidentally negliglected to clean an sks for over 2 years, non chrome lined barrel, only bit of corrosion was at gas tube and that cleaned right up in a few mins. Humidity is a big factor but generally I think the corrosive ammo aversion is over blown. With light use swab barrel and gas port with ballistol done, move on with life.
 
bigcoupee said:
Had accidentally negliglected to clean an sks for over 2 years, non chrome lined barrel, only bit of corrosion was at gas tube and that cleaned right up in a few mins. Humidity is a big factor but generally I think the corrosive ammo aversion is over blown. With light use swab barrel and gas port with ballistol done, move on with life.
Click to expand...

it is not overstated where the air is damp.
I took my sks camping ..tent camping to be exact......
ugly fast...

I sprayed it with wd40 to stop the rusting till I got home
 
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