i'm reading back threw my reloading manual(lyman 49th) and i been trying to comprehend on what projectile I'm allowed to use, Im still green in reloading so please bare with me. First of I'm loading for my 270WSM with Rem brass, winchester WLRM primers, IMR 4350, and Hornaty 110SPT, thats what i have picked for my first loads. So far its been going well, but with the shortage of reloading supplies going around in some areas,bullets in particular for me, can i use a different tipped bullet ex) instead of the 110SPT as said in the book can i use a 110HP or 110V-max instead. Im just plinking at the moment so complete accuracy isn't an issue right now, i just want to do basic loads to make sure I'm not going to blow my face off or ruin my firearm.
projectile difference's
- Thread starter FromTheNorth
- Start date
The weight is the main thing.
From there work up towards the max pressure in small batches to find out where the sweet spot is for your particular rifle with a given bullet and powder. As you work towards the max load be on the lookout for the signs of too high a pressure. You're looking for overly deformed primers mostly. Some imprinting of the bolt face pattern and some corner squaring on the primer cups is OK. But when it starts getting to where you're really starting to form the primer to the pocket hard then most folks would agree that you're pushing the limits.
MOST rifles will find their best accuracy somewhere within the min to max load data so that you don't need to load to the max.
For your first loads just to get a feel for it all start with the minimum load. Use this for working on your trickling technique and weighing the charges. You'll want to weigh each charge for when you begin loading serious accuracy loads so now is a good time to get started.
And starting with the minimum loads regardless of bullet shape is certainly going to be safe.
From there work up towards the max pressure in small batches to find out where the sweet spot is for your particular rifle with a given bullet and powder. As you work towards the max load be on the lookout for the signs of too high a pressure. You're looking for overly deformed primers mostly. Some imprinting of the bolt face pattern and some corner squaring on the primer cups is OK. But when it starts getting to where you're really starting to form the primer to the pocket hard then most folks would agree that you're pushing the limits.
MOST rifles will find their best accuracy somewhere within the min to max load data so that you don't need to load to the max.
For your first loads just to get a feel for it all start with the minimum load. Use this for working on your trickling technique and weighing the charges. You'll want to weigh each charge for when you begin loading serious accuracy loads so now is a good time to get started.
And starting with the minimum loads regardless of bullet shape is certainly going to be safe.
so i take it that the bullet shape its self will has no bearing on how its projected, just the impact(hence why we use different bullets for different applications regarding expansion)
Different shapes will make a difference, less/more aerodynamic than another, ect.
But that difference isn't enough that your gun will blow up on you or anything. Pay attention to the bullet weights and work your way up from whatever the minimum load is in your book. If you find good accuracy or pressure signs before you max out, stop there.
Hotwheels81
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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How much of the case the bullet takes up has a direct correlation to pressure, how the bullet engages the rifling does as well (jump/jamb)... Hence the ALWAYS WORK UP LOADS STARTING FROM THE MINAMUM warning everybody reinforces around here.
"Most" <---- (not all!!!!) starting loads are safe to shoot with a broad selection of bullets.
Another point that is often made is to get load data from a few sources before you load anything, the worst I have seen from not paying heed to that warning is a stuck bolt and some head scratching after the trigger was pulled but it does happen.
Not "no bearing". There's a bunch of things like how much of the side rides in the casing and rifling along with the BC of the bullet which affects the trajectory over a longer distance. So you can't expect the same load for two bullets of the same weight but different design to fly exactly the same.
Hotwheels makes note of how the seating of the different bullets can possibly affect the peak pressure. And he's right on that account even if the reply is a bit dramatic. For bullets of the same weight the insertion depth is going to be similar but it's good to take note of any difference and work to minimizing that difference. Or at least note that it's occurring and adjust back the powder charge for any that seat more deeply.
Depending on the powder you might not need to go right back to the beginning loads but for your first few times changing between bullets it's a wise thing to do. After all, the peak accuracy for the new bullet may well occur at a lower charge. And if you only back off a little you might miss it totally.
So yeah, each bullet needs the full treatment not only from a loading safety aspect but also to ensure you hit the point for that powder with that bullet that gives you the best accuracy with your rifle.
And wherever possible I also agree that it's wise to get loading data from two or three or even more sources. With far heavier confidence given to proper sources as opposed to currently popular user based load data. I still look up loads on such sources but they are treated with a heavy salt grind and compared to proper commercial sources before deciding on how I'm going to load.
Generally when I go to such user sites I'm looking more for data on mid power loads and the results others have had for accuracy while shooting similar guns and bullets to what I'm after. My pet cartridge being .38-55 which doesn't have a huge commercial data base to work with other than max safe loads. So I end up needing to rely on user information for a guide towards shortening my own development time.
Simply put; a given load, say ( My own example here) .312 60 grain JHP over 4.5 grains of Unique. Devastatingly effective , no pressure signs.
Put a .312 110 grain JHP over 4.5 grains of Unique; got a neat little donut effect on the primer. Pressure sign...back things off somewhat.
Even one brand of component change, will affect things somewhat. IMO
Stay safe.
Put a .312 110 grain JHP over 4.5 grains of Unique; got a neat little donut effect on the primer. Pressure sign...back things off somewhat.
Even one brand of component change, will affect things somewhat. IMO
Stay safe.
You need to get a copy of the ABC's of Reloading, read it from cover to cover,, and read it again, like you are studying for a final exam. A good explanation of what goes into creating pressure, and the variables, and when and where informed interpolation might be successful. A significant factor on pressure is the bearing surface of the bullet as it proceeds down the rifle bore. Of the same weight, long pointy boat tail bullets have less bearing surface than short, flat base round nose bullets, and hence, less resistance to being forced down the barrel. Seating depth affects apparent case volume - less volume resulting from the bullet base intruding deeper into the case, more pressure. Depending on the pressure curve of the powder in question, this may, or may not, be a critical factor.
use lots of references from reliable sources. Hint. Although you will find may advocates of the flat earth theory on the wonderweb, me, I tend to think the earth is round. Same credibility with loads from forums!
use lots of references from reliable sources. Hint. Although you will find may advocates of the flat earth theory on the wonderweb, me, I tend to think the earth is round. Same credibility with loads from forums!
You almost doubled the bullet weight and kept the charge the same. That's not a minor change, it's a major one. And rather hugely major to boot. I would never alter the bullet weight by such an amount and expect to be able to shoot the same charge weight.
A minor one would be switching between two brands or styles of 60gn bullets such as the OP is worried about.
