twoicebergs
Regular
I bought one from IRunGuns at Christmas and I would have received it in less than a week, except for CanPar taking it on an extra 3,000 mile journey before coming back to Winnipeg.
Things I like about it:
It fits my medium hands reasonably well, with a very good trigger position.
The larger post front sight.
More Ambi than some.
How light it is. I thought that might affect recoil, but I don't really notice it.
It has the CORE cut on the slide for an optic and you can co-witness the sights. The front blade is still useful to help acquire the dot on target.
It is accurate.
The relatively short trigger reset.
It is reliable and goes bang every time you pull the trigger.
Things I don't like about it:
The gritty trigger.
The grips.
The wide trigger guard. Holster fitment issues. Although this was not a problem using the CR Speed style holster.
The lack of good information available, even on the S&W forum.
I put the Hogue grips on it and I like it better than the stock grips, but I am still looking for something with some more bite for action shooting. Maybe the original grips with some sand and glue will eventually make their way back onto the gun. I searched the net for trigger fixes, and finally decided the original parts were going to be OK, with a bit of tweaking. With the striker fire, you are fairly limited to what you can do and still run in Production class, since you need a 5 lb trigger for the first pull.
The best bang for the buck, as it is an easy fix is, is to remove the striker block and do 2 things; ensure there are no burrs in the hole of the slide, and grind and polish a slightly different profile on it striker block. Just by doing this the trigger is just above 5 lbs in my gun and the gritty feel is gone!. If I were to work on the sear, it would drop another 1-3 lbs, but that would force me to change classes. I guess running with the optic would do the same.
This is not my striker block photo, but the one in the PDF. I just stuck mine in a drill and ran it against a fine stone to get the shape and then used 400 grit and 800 grit paper to clean it up. I then used SS polishing compound to make it sparkle.
Here is the link to the PDF for the complete trigger job with original parts. M&Ptriggerjob.pdf
If the link gets removed, just search M&P Trigger Job pdf.
For those with the older Pro guns, the removal of the rear sight gives you access to the Striker Blocker. For those with the newer Pro CORE, the access is under the Optic or the cover plate. There was a lot of debate on what tool is needed to remove the cover, with varying answers resulting in damaged screws. For the CORE models you need a very good quality 0.050" hex tool. 1.3mm will not work! The tool I bought was very accurate, pricier than I thought it would be, and fit perfectly. Needless to say, no play is very important to prevent stripping the cap.
If I decide to make this a poor man's open gun, I will finish the complete trigger job, have the barrel and slide Magna-ported (quad) and perhaps mount a larger red-dot.
Things I like about it:
It fits my medium hands reasonably well, with a very good trigger position.
The larger post front sight.
More Ambi than some.
How light it is. I thought that might affect recoil, but I don't really notice it.
It has the CORE cut on the slide for an optic and you can co-witness the sights. The front blade is still useful to help acquire the dot on target.
It is accurate.
The relatively short trigger reset.
It is reliable and goes bang every time you pull the trigger.
Things I don't like about it:
The gritty trigger.
The grips.
The wide trigger guard. Holster fitment issues. Although this was not a problem using the CR Speed style holster.
The lack of good information available, even on the S&W forum.
I put the Hogue grips on it and I like it better than the stock grips, but I am still looking for something with some more bite for action shooting. Maybe the original grips with some sand and glue will eventually make their way back onto the gun. I searched the net for trigger fixes, and finally decided the original parts were going to be OK, with a bit of tweaking. With the striker fire, you are fairly limited to what you can do and still run in Production class, since you need a 5 lb trigger for the first pull.
The best bang for the buck, as it is an easy fix is, is to remove the striker block and do 2 things; ensure there are no burrs in the hole of the slide, and grind and polish a slightly different profile on it striker block. Just by doing this the trigger is just above 5 lbs in my gun and the gritty feel is gone!. If I were to work on the sear, it would drop another 1-3 lbs, but that would force me to change classes. I guess running with the optic would do the same.
This is not my striker block photo, but the one in the PDF. I just stuck mine in a drill and ran it against a fine stone to get the shape and then used 400 grit and 800 grit paper to clean it up. I then used SS polishing compound to make it sparkle.
Here is the link to the PDF for the complete trigger job with original parts. M&Ptriggerjob.pdf
If the link gets removed, just search M&P Trigger Job pdf.
For those with the older Pro guns, the removal of the rear sight gives you access to the Striker Blocker. For those with the newer Pro CORE, the access is under the Optic or the cover plate. There was a lot of debate on what tool is needed to remove the cover, with varying answers resulting in damaged screws. For the CORE models you need a very good quality 0.050" hex tool. 1.3mm will not work! The tool I bought was very accurate, pricier than I thought it would be, and fit perfectly. Needless to say, no play is very important to prevent stripping the cap.
If I decide to make this a poor man's open gun, I will finish the complete trigger job, have the barrel and slide Magna-ported (quad) and perhaps mount a larger red-dot.
