•••Remington 700 MLR 338 Owners •• Potential Buyer with questions

SudburyShooter

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•••Remington 700 MLR 338 Owners •• Potential Buyer with questions

I'm looking at a new .338 after selling off my Savage Long range Hunter.
I have heard about the action being a little small for the .338 and the muzzle break being horrible.
Assuming the rifle has been in production for many years without an action grenade, and the muzzle break being replaceable. Am I in for a ride with this rifle?

The guys on the sniper forums hate on this rifle like its their day job.

Claims of ####ty finish, unusable barrel length, limp extraction, ect.

I have searched for a decent video review that demonstrates these issues but
every video is a 30 second weekend warrior pulling the trigger for the first time just for the
sake of tagging "338" in the title.

I know the cost of 338 and I reload already so that's not a major concern.

Any info good or bad. Reported groups. Upgrades needed/ recommended.
Thanks so much. Losing sleep on this one. :/
 
I feel I have a pretty good input on this one.

I have owned, shot, and modified this rife for over four years now, and put several thousands of rounds downrange, from point blank, to 1760 yards, and just about everything in between, including moving targets at 600 meters, and rapid fire at 1000.

So the long story short...

The action is a bit small for the cartridge. Remington stretched the design of the action to fit this big cartridge in. The general industry standard for .338 bolt heads seems to be .750", but with Remingtons bolt head, it is the standard Remington magnum bolt face of .700", and since the .338 Lapua uses a Rigby .585″ bolt face, it leaves very little material around the outside of the bolt. That said, I have run very hot loads through this gun over my load testing period, and never had anything worse than a sticky bolt and extractor marks. In fact, I have never seen nor even heard of any catastrophic failure of the Remington 700 MLR, ever. This is not to say it has never happened, but if it has, people hushed it up.

The rifle as it comes from the factory is a good, usable rifle. Make sure you loctite your scope base down, I found in the first years that under heavy recoil loads they had a tendency to become loose.

The trigger is a good adjustable trigger, not timney or Jewell quality, but I still run it after all these years, so that attests to how nice you can tune it.

Fit and finish was what I expected from any Remington law enforcement product, good machining, no tool marks, finish was close to flawless other than minor areas that are not visible unless rifle is taken apart.

Limp extraction with the M16 style ejector is present, if you do not pull the bolt back firmly the empty brass will not clear the action. This is a simple fix, either cycle the action firmly, or install a stronger ejector spring. I never replaced mine, I just pretend I am not a girl scout when cycling the action.

Accuracy was surprisingly good on my rifle, tends to be right around or below the MOA mark, but that MOA stays consistent out to a longggggg way away... weather conditions depending of course. If you can hold MOA, that is good enough to hit most targets a long way away the vast majority of the time.


Upgrades I did to the rifle?

-Installed a built in adjustable cheek riser.
-Action bedded
-Muzzle brake removed and replaced with an APA Fat bastard. (Factory brake is utter cow chit... you can't fire heavy loads prone without getting sore after a few rounds, and it kicks up so much dirt from the ground that your eyes are left stinging and watering after every shot. Do this mod first)
-Purchased spare magazine (Hard to find, they run around $120.00)
-Installed badger bolt knob. Makes the rifle much easier to run, a worthwhile upgrade.
-Cheek riser bag. I shoot all year, and touching a cold riflestock at -35c is not my idea of a fun day, so a neoprene and fabric stock back make winter shooting comfortable, and also hold a few spare tools and ammo.
-SAP two round velcro holder. Stick it on the side of your stock just in front of the action, and have two rounds ready for immediate reload. Great product.


Long story short, I want to keep this rifle forever. The biggest reason I am going the custom build route is because I am a hopeless tinkerer and I like making new things, but in the end, the MLR has done just about everything I have asked of it, and even with all the money into gunsmithing, I am still cheaper by a large margin than a custom build, and the finished product is exactly what I had wanted.

In fact, I had it out just on Sunday, was making hits at 1300 meters in 30-40kph wind gusts, on small faraway steel gongs. Too much fun.





Depending on your purpose, the gun can be an excellent companion, but be prepared to put some legwork into making it that way.


Feel free to ask any other questions you have, and I'll do my best to answer them.

Cheers.
 
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M
I feel I have a pretty good input on this one.

I have owned, shot, and modified this rife for aver four years now, and put several thousands of rounds downrange, from point blank, to 1760 yards.

(will update this post shortly, takes too long on mobile, swapping to pc)

Awesomeness. Eagerly waiting.
Just found out it has an intergrated brake. So much for addressing that issue lol
 
M

Awesomeness. Eagerly waiting.
Just found out it has an intergrated brake. So much for addressing that issue lol

Aha! No, at least on the MLR model, they are threaded, but the joint is hard to see because it was painted as one, and they used heat to apply the brake, so heat needs to be applied, along with a good bit of elbow grease, to get the factory brake off. Most reccomend a large screwdriver through one of the ports, and slow, careful application of heat until you can spin the brake off.
 
Hey Kevin, what bubble level are you using on that rifle ? I am putting my 338 RUM back together and need to find a level that does not hang out to much from the rifle, and the one you have seems to be just the ticket.
Regards
 
I have had both the MLR (first productiion) and the XCR Tactical. Both were good and as Kevin mentioned, expected fit and finish.
The XCR has a nice durable coating, and has the OPS brake which is medium at best but an upgrade to a better brake isn't much but well worth it....keep in mind these rifles are also much lighter than most custom rifles with MTU barrel contours.
For a low budget (for .338 Lapua), these are a pretty good rifle overall.

My XCR would shoot 1/2 moa on a good day with factory scenars or good reloads but I would class it as a reliable 1 MOA rifle, but wouldn't shoot Hornady or S&B worth a sh!t....
 
Hey Kevin, what bubble level are you using on that rifle ? I am putting my 338 RUM back together and need to find a level that does not hang out to much from the rifle, and the one you have seems to be just the ticket.
Regards

The bubble level is integrated into my scope base. Look up the SPUHR ISMS. They are not cheap, retailing around $450.00, but they are far and away the best scope mount that money can buy, just ask any competition shooter, and nearly half of them have switched to this system in the last few years because of how good they perform, and how many features they put into it.
 
^^ Thanks man. Appreciate the info.
Assuming you were talking about Hornady//SB factory ammo?

Yes...the Hornady and S&B were factory offerings....the Lapua lockbase and scenars all shot great as factory ammo.
Reloading has only been with scenars...they worked great so didn't do too much exploring.
Rifle was bedded and also had come with a 40X trigger....the new XCR's are back to the XMP trigger.
 
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