my new to me savage12 "precision" rig

T

TheM4chef

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Hi guys, I'm new to this section so bare with me if I'm not totally on my a game. My new to me .223 savage mod12 arrived today. The action is fantastic! And the trigger is amazing too.

I'm mounting a Vortex Viper hst 6-24x50 and I'm curious, it had a millett 20moa riser and I noticed that it had a tiny bit of a bow in it (like 1/64") is this normal? Will it effect accuracy?

Most of my shooting will be out to just past 200 with the possibility of getting to do some longer shots. Should I keep the riser on or take it off and use normal bases and rings?

Btw the stock makes it feel like a toy. Any reasonably priced options to upgrade for target work. I won't be humping it through the woods and I said before.

 
While the bow in the rail may not effect accuracy, it might not be a 20moa rail any more either, it's visibly bowed in those pictures.

I'd replace it because I would never want to second guess my equipment. The most expensive part of shooting is the ammo, and replacing the rail is cheap insurance and piece of mind.
 
I have the same gun in .308 , I put a Bell and Carlson tactical on it/ glass bed and I love it. Like you said, it's not something you want to walk miles through the bush with as it's now a beast weight wise.
 
I would get a new rail! I would look into a hs precision type stock. I have a Kevlar tactical stock on my 223 and it's pretty light and rigid. I have one for sale, the only reason getting rid of it is because I want all my precision guns to be setup the same.
 
timmy204 said:
First put a straight edge on top of that action to determine what's crooked...
Click to expand...

Indeed. If the rail is indeed bowed, remove it from the receiver and check to see if it is still bowed or straightens out against a straight edge. If it is still warped after removing it, buy a new one. If it straightens out great! Mount the rail with just the front screws, is the rear end of the rail floating above the rear receiver? If so, bed the rear end of the receiver with some Devcon or JB Weld and you're good to go.
 
Thanks for the advice you guys. With a strait edge against the top of the rail there deff is a bow to it. I'll take it off and see what happens.

Trinimon, you mean just install the front two screws and use jb welt to secure the back end of the rail if it's strait?
 
TheM4chef said:
Thanks for the advice you guys. With a strait edge against the top of the rail there deff is a bow to it. I'll take it off and see what happens.

Trinimon, you mean just install the front two screws and use jb welt to secure the back end of the rail if it's strait?
Click to expand...

Yup. Install the front screws just finger snug. If there is a hairline gap between the receiver and the rear end of the rail, you need to bed the rail.

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Remove the rail, buff down the underside of the rear rail contact point (NOT THE RIFLE!) with some 150grit sandpaper. Wipe it down with some acetone to remove any grease. On the receiver, use some Playdoh/Plasticine/modeling clay to plug the screw holes on the rear receiver and rear end of the rail. Use some masking tape and tape off the area to avoid making a mess and getting JB Weld/Devcon all over your rifle. Apply some paste wax or shoe polish on the rear receiver.

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Mix up a small batch of JB Weld/Devcon, you won't need a whole lot, and apply it generously to the contact area of the rail you prepped earlier. Don't discard the excess epoxy! Just set it aside for now.

Place one of the screws into the front end of the rail to help with aligning it on your rifle in order to avoid letting the rear end of the rail touch your rifle in the wrong spot and making a mess. Install the second front screw and snug them down finger tight. Using a straightedge, check the rail to see if it's still perfectly flat. Avoid placing any pressure on the rear end of the rail to prevent any excess squeeze-out.

Use some q-tips soaked in WD40 or other lube to wipe off the excess JB Weld/Devcon from the area.

Remember the excess epoxy you set aside earlier? Use it to gauge how much it has cured. If you used JB Weld, after 5hrs it should be pretty firm but still somewhat pliable, perfect. If it is a bit on the soft side, wait another 30min-1hr. Remove the rail from the receiver and use a sharp utility knife to square up the excess epoxy from it if you like. Remove the tape and Playdoh\Plasticine from the screw holes in the receiver and rail and clean off the paste wax using acetone. You can give it nice wipe with a oiled rag after to prevent any rusting.

Apply some Blue loctite to the rail screws and mount the rail onto your rifle. Torque the screws to spec and you're ready to mount your scope.
 
Thanks for the great tutorial! I took the rail off and using a strait edge it is indeed strait I messed with placement and it's much much better than it was at first. Once my rings arrive I'll take a look again. I got some jb weld in the truck so I might end up doing that fix
 
I figured out the problem the recoil lug sits just a hair higher than the receiver. So I took out the dremel and relieved the area on the bottom of the base a hair and now everything sits perfectly strait
 
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