SKS trigger job - stoning questions

Suther

Suther

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So Im trying to get the tools together to do a trigger job on my SKS and I need some info.

I know very little about stones. I understand their use and have used them for sharpening knives plenty but thats about it.

So what sort of coarseness do I want/need? I see everything from 120 grit to 900 grit. Also where do you suggest to get them from? I see brownell's has 'em... Any other options? I am impatient and would prefer to not wait on shipping but price is the ultimate decider.

Would EZE-LAP diamond hones do the job? They are nice and cheap on amazon... but having the right tool for the job is more important than saving a few bucks...?
 
I use a GATCO kife sharpening kit that I bought years ago for kives. I don't know what they cost these days but Ive done three SKS trigger jobs with it and the stones work great! The stones are a good shape to lay flat on the table facing up and move the SKS trigger parts over. I also lay some emry cloth on top of the final stone to buff a mirror finish on the sear and hammer surfaces as a finishing touch.
 
Used some of my cheaper kitchen knife stones to do the job. Dmt coarse plate was used to re-shape the sear and remove most of the creep.

The kitchen stones (Japanese synthetic, I think 500/800 grit) did a good job at soothing it out. I'm sure any stones with the appropriate progression of grit would be good enough. If you plan on reshaping the sear, be sure to only do a little bit at a time, reassemble and reassess.

Good luck!
 
If you are only doing one trigger, use waterproof carbide grit sandpaper from Canadian Tire (the black sheets with the green back). Start with 180 and move up (280,400) to 600. Higher if you want but the practical effect is very little above 600 for an SKS trigger. Sand the trigger loose pieces using a hard flat surface to back up the paper. Light machine oil speeds cutting. Wrap small pieces around a suitable shape to do the inside work. You can always take more off but you can't put it back so go slowly and check often.
 
marc_j said:
If you are only doing one trigger, use waterproof carbide grit sandpaper from Canadian Tire (the black sheets with the green back). Start with 180 and move up (280,400) to 600. Higher if you want but the practical effect is very little above 600 for an SKS trigger. Sand the trigger loose pieces using a hard flat surface to back up the paper. Light machine oil speeds cutting. Wrap small pieces around a suitable shape to do the inside work. You can always take more off but you can't put it back so go slowly and check often.
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Okay thanks.

I am slowly trying to build up my own collection of minor gunsmithing-related tools so I'll probably look for a stone, but it is nice to know of other options in case I can't find something I like. As for oil what is a good option? Would air compressor tool oil be good? Or should I go get something more purpose-built? I think the air tool oil is all I have kicking around thats not for cooking or motors...
 
Suther said:
Okay thanks.

I am slowly trying to build up my own collection of minor gunsmithing-related tools so I'll probably look for a stone, but it is nice to know of other options in case I can't find something I like. As for oil what is a good option? Would air compressor tool oil be good? Or should I go get something more purpose-built? I think the air tool oil is all I have kicking around thats not for cooking or motors...
Click to expand...

Any light oil will do. Its purpose is to keep the abrasive particles that break free from the paper still available instead of being pushed away as dry dust. The advantage of paper is the flat backing - it stays flat as the paper wears. Stones wear unevenly and it is harder to maintain the geometry of surfaces.
 
If your wanting to build a beginner gunsmithing kit.... be sure to include a Dremel and accessory kit if you dont already have one,...... like 70% of my gunsmithing has been accomplished by only using a Dremel lol

Before you consider modifying the sear in your SKS trigger group, I would recommend you try replacing the the trigger and mag latch springs with lighter ones, ive brought alot of trigger groups down to only 3-4 lbs by only doing that to them; AND (unlike tampering with the sear) it isnt permanent if you keep the original springs! modifying your sear is risky and will only really effect the way your trigger breaks free. When the trigger bar is pushing the sear out from underneath the hammer, its the stiff mag latch spring that is applying the pull weight that your feeling in the trigger.
 
I used the stones that came with my Ed brown 1911 sear jig. I have no idea what grit they are, but they are very fine. The hardest part about an sks trigger job is taking apart the entire fire control assembly. U don't need to do a lot of cutting, just polishing the mating surfaces. My trigger is like butter, although you won't get a clean/sharp break, just smooth pull and break.
 
warrenlikesboats said:
If your wanting to build a beginner gunsmithing kit.... be sure to include a Dremel and accessory kit if you dont already have one,...... like 70% of my gunsmithing has been accomplished by only using a Dremel lol

Before you consider modifying the sear in your SKS trigger group, I would recommend you try replacing the the trigger and mag latch springs with lighter ones, ive brought alot of trigger groups down to only 3-4 lbs by only doing that to them; AND (unlike tampering with the sear) it isnt permanent if you keep the original springs! modifying your sear is risky and will only really effect the way your trigger breaks free. When the trigger bar is pushing the sear out from underneath the hammer, its the stiff mag latch spring that is applying the pull weight that your feeling in the trigger.
Click to expand...

Got a Princess Auto knock-off rotary tool so check on that one!

Trigger has a lot of creep and negative sear engagement. I want to shorten that up a bit and change the angle to a tiny bit positive (or at least neutral). Springs wont be helping any with that. I do plan on picking up some Wolff Springs from HiCal whenever I am out that way next so that is already on my list but trigger weight is not the only issue I am trying to address.

Marc_j that is a very good point about the sandpaper. I will have to consider that as more than just a cheap alternative to stones now. Thanks.
 
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