Powder Coat Lead Cast Bullets

Some guys over on the cast boolits forums are talking about 3000fps. In my experience I find they are still limited to cast bullet velocities but do totally prevent leading. You can still apply gas checks as normal when sizing.

With a good alloy you should be able to do at least 2000fps in rifles like other good cast bullets.
 
Thanks for chiming in Lutnit. Just one question about your reply, if you don't mind. If I size before powder coating, I'm thinking I'll have to lube in order to size. Wouldn't I have to then somehow clean the lube completely before the PC?

What I was thinking of doing is using the Lyman 450 GC tool to force the GC on, then PC, and finally size using a Lee through type sizer. That way I wouldn't have to lube, then remove the lube before PC. Would that make sense?
 
theshootist said:
Thanks for chiming in Lutnit. Just one question about your reply, if you don't mind. If I size before powder coating, I'm thinking I'll have to lube in order to size. Wouldn't I have to then somehow clean the lube completely before the PC?

What I was thinking of doing is using the Lyman 450 GC tool to force the GC on, then PC, and finally size using a Lee through type sizer. That way I wouldn't have to lube, then remove the lube before PC. Would that make sense?
Click to expand...

Simple quick swish in Acetone gets it off. But I'm just using Dillon spray lube. It seems to also really help with adhesion.
 
I don't size before PC'ing. I cast, PC, and then size, but you need to take the as-cast size and powder coat thickness into account.
What I'm doing for 44 mag is using a Lee .430" mold that I know with pure WW alloy casts .4310" to .4315" and my powder coat brings them up to .433" to .435". I then use a custom .434" sizer to apply the gas checks and it just barely touches the bullets. These are going in a Marlin with a Micro Groove bore that slugs .4315" so I need oversized cast bullets.

That's just my personal method and it works well for me. There are various methods including mixing the PC paint with acetone and tumble it like liquid alox and let them dry. The PC paint adheres better so you don't rub it off while handling them before baking. I want to give this method a shot but without a heated garage and being -20'C for the last week or two (since I read about this method), I haven't had a chance.

As CreamySmooth (it feels so weird to type that...) said you can also use case lube to size the bullets before PC'ing and remove it with acetone. Traditional bullet lube is meant to stick for when it gets seated and goes through the barrel. If you're just sizing you can use practically anything since you're removing it before it gets fired. I've heard of people using a thin motor oil for case sizing and would also work here.
 
V
f55 said:
Nice bullets CS

its time for show some more :)

Traffic Red also gives good coating.

pc.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice. I gotta ask if that's .40 on the left? I've been looking all over for the 140 grain .40 cal Lee mold for a long time... If it is where'd you get it? Wholesale won't even special it for me as it's not in their inventory....
 
Last edited:
from left to right

45 acp 185gr, 44mag 240gr, 44mag 240gr, 45-70 405g, 308 230gr, 45-70 405gr, 45-70 405gr, 44mag 240gr and last is 9mm 124gr.

No .40 :)
 
I have everything ready to go towards the PC end, the one thing I need to do still, is either do a fresh cast or possibly try acetone or some method to maybe deoxidize some existing bullets to save doing the cast session.
Anyone tried that or some other method of deoxidizing existing bullets? I gather that perhaps it doesn't necessarily work all that well to PC oxidized bullets, and the paint may not stick properly if the bullets are not fairly fresh cast??
Or was I perhaps reading posts from someone just not using a good PC app method or the wrong type of paint? There is so much garbage to read thru on CB, that I hesitate to try to find that info again..
I remember reading something about there being no way to deoxidize them also.
How old are the bullets you folks have PC'd. Mine are about 2-3 yrs, never lubed or sized yet.
 
K
209jones said:
I have everything ready to go towards the PC end, the one thing I need to do still, is either do a fresh cast or possibly try acetone or some method to maybe deoxidize some existing bullets to save doing the cast session.
Anyone tried that or some other method of deoxidizing existing bullets? I gather that perhaps it doesn't necessarily work all that well to PC oxidized bullets, and the paint may not stick properly if the bullets are not fairly fresh cast??
Or was I perhaps reading posts from someone just not using a good PC app method or the wrong type of paint? There is so much garbage to read thru on CB, that I hesitate to try to find that info again..
I remember reading something about there being no way to deoxidize them also.
How old are the bullets you folks have PC'd. Mine are about 2-3 yrs, never lubed or sized yet.
Click to expand...

I have nothing scientific to add except from experience doing, and this was with good ol' Tool Blue, casting later did not get the same good results. It appears thus, but the PC starts to slowly come off when we used old bullets. I typically try to PC within 3 days and haven't therefore had any issues. The pics at the top are PCed the next day.

Also, of sad note, my favorite colour that always performed well, Tool Blue, is no longer available. I took previous advice from this thread and ordered Tractor and Traffic reds, as well as 6 other half pounds to try to discover a similar PC. PhantomWet White, Tractor Red and Kubota Orange seem to show similiar stats. I've also got AK Mirror Black, Mirrir Blue and Mirror Red coming and some other weird ones to check out. Hopefully one covers as well. Kawasaki Green seems to size right off the bullet during sizing, tool blue never did that, which is the only other colour I currently have.
 
CS

What do you mean by it slowly comes off?

Do you mean you can rub the pc off the bullets or do you mean it comes off and deposits in the barrel?
 
.
f55 said:
CS

What do you mean by it slowly comes off?

Do you mean you can rub the pc off the bullets or do you mean it comes off and deposits in the barrel?
Click to expand...

When we used bullets that had been cast months ago, the PC would slowly come off I'm noticing, as is just start to come off the bullet. I'm trying now to cast and then coat with 3 days max. It does seem to matter.
 
Interesting, i will have to check some 308 i cast in jan and see if pc starts to come off.



CreamySmooth said:
.

When we used bullets that had been cast months ago, the PC would slowly come off I'm noticing, as is just start to come off the bullet. I'm trying now to cast and then coat with 3 days max. It does seem to matter.
Click to expand...
 
Just to add a few pics as I finally have some time. I finished what I hope to be this years bullet coating. Here's how we've been doing it.

First, covered like this in a tub, and shaken around. No beads.

IMG_0641_zpscsvpfzt2.jpg


Then into a kiln a buddy has at the prescribed temp.

IMG_0693_zpskfe2z0dw.jpg


13 minutes later you get these.

IMG_0698_zpsge8gldc8.jpg


And then after 8 hours of doing you have this:

IMG_0696_zps9uolpzt2.jpg


They've all shot very well so far. As I said earlier though, we are out of Tool Blue and need to find another colour. Boo.
 
Nice work CS, you have a good process and excellent results.

You finished all your powder, you should be able to get 6000+ bullets coated with 1lb powder.
 
Last edited:
Has anyone figured out why a certain colour works better than another ? You would assume (probably the problem ) that all compositions would be the same except for the colour dye ??
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom