Ruger sr22 chassis gap

I have the same issue if I use my older receiver from my 80s vintage 10/22 but if I use my receiver from my new 10/22 it sits almost flush. Don't know why but figured I'd throw it out there, maybe there's slight differences? My chassis is a Nordic but shouldn't be any different than your ruger chassis.
 
OP, does your 10/22 have some kind of textured finish on it? Looking through the gap at the 10/22 underneath, it appears to have a non-skid texture on the paint?
 
Not too sure. Why would that make a difference?


I had a Nordic chassis that fit perfectly until I added the pistol grip, then there was a slight gap, similar to yours. In my case the pistol grip screw was slightly too long and forced the receiver up slightly. However I have no idea if that would be a factor in your situation.
 
I had a Nordic chassis that fit perfectly until I added the pistol grip, then there was a slight gap, similar to yours. In my case the pistol grip screw was slightly too long and forced the receiver up slightly. However I have no idea if that would be a factor in your situation.

Thanks man. I will take a look and see if that changes anything
 
OP, does your 10/22 have some kind of textured finish on it? Looking through the gap at the 10/22 underneath, it appears to have a non-skid texture on the paint?

I put a 10/22 together with a blue Boyds laminate stock and blue Tac-Sol barrel. I used a newer receiver. It was a painted receiver. I stripped the paint with aircraft stripper (aluminum-safe). It took 2 applications of stripper and some scraper/brass brush work to get it all off. I'm not sure when they stopped anodizing the receivers and went to paint. It does strip off, but it's some work. By the way, once you get the paint off, there's some work with sandpaper to get rid of the machining marks on the receiver. I guess that's why they switched from anodizing to paint.....................less finishing work at the factory.
 
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