S&W 686 pre/post lock?

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Brianma65

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So , I'm thinking of getting 357 , and after looking at all the options , I've decided on the Colt 686 . I've googled the Pre/Post lock issue and am still not clear on the issues. I think the post lock model can some how lock on you ,so you can't fire the gun ? Can you just unlock it? I've seen a used pre lock for $800 and a new , I'm assuming post lock for $1000. So , does pre or post really matter much?.. Thanks
 
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I think you mean S&W 686? I've read that sometimes that stupid lock will engage itself also that the hole for it in the frame is fugly. It can just be unlocked again but I think you need that stupid little key that comes with it. Idk why S&W doesn't axe that lock, if it wasn't for it buying a 686 or 586 in that price range would be a no brainer. The trigger is much smoother and less "stage-y" than the Ruger gp100 though so I'm in the same dilemma which one to get.
 
Colt 686? If it's going to lock you out, just call the certified locksmith. Colt is providing the list of the certified locksmiths across the country with every manual. Their service is free of charge except for Ramadan, Hanukkah and Christmas. On a more serious note, the lock on S&W revolvers doesn't matter except for the collectors who are usually less than happy with one.
 
One has an internal lock (and mechanism you actuate with a key under the cylinder release) one doesn't. a lot of people really seem to dislike the lock (unnecessary, could fail (though highly unlikely). i don't think it matters. if you want new, it will have the lock. if you are willing to buy used, you could get either. i haven't noticed a huge price difference.
 
Most of all the moaning and whining about the lock seems to come from the US and revolves around what if the gun locked in a self defense situation. Up here if the lock somehow happened to engage (extremely remote possibility from what I read) it would almost certainly be on the range so really, who cares?

Many people consider the older S&W's to be better made and finished but I think you have to go back well before the L frames came out for that to be true so it doesn't apply here.
 
Hmm , sorry about the Colt mix up, was daydreaming. I can get a new one on the rock for a $1000+ hst or a used one off the EE for $800. Now , I'm not concerned about the lock issue but when you state it's fugly , I can't see it in a pic. I'm just not sure if a new one is worth $330 more , but I'm always a bit leery of buying used especially when you can't see it before you buy it.
 
Brianma65 said:
Hmm , sorry about the Colt mix up, was daydreaming. I can get a new one on the rock for a $1000+ hst or a used one off the EE for $800. Now , I'm not concerned about the lock issue but when you state it's fugly , I can't see it in a pic. I'm just not sure if a new one is worth $330 more , but I'm always a bit leery of buying used especially when you can't see it before you buy it.
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That's just how I've read it described as on other forums, it's a hole in the frame. I haven't been able to find any clear pictures of it though, and my LGS doesn't have one atm. Buying a revolver used is a gamble if you can't check it over in person, I'd also be leery of buying used on the net. I'd be afraid it's been cowboy'd and its out of index or the frame was separating.
 
Get the Smith & Wesson.IMO the best made,very accurate,best looking, best trigger pull on any off the shelf revolver and I have shoot a few in my time.Not only that but their warranty program is fantastic also and it's lifetime.
 
686-lock.jpg

I guess it's the hole above the cylinder release. It stands out but idk if it would put me off the revolver, it's still a sweet piece of gear
 
The lock doesn't matter to me one way or the other, and on models that weren't available in the olden times, you don't have a choice anyway. I certainly don't take visual note of it unless I'm cleaning the gun.

The feature that I do like that was scrapped is the hammer mounted firing pin. Sad to see that long gone, but still not a deal breaker.

I intend to buy every smith that catches my fancy. Perhaps down the road I will develop a strong preference, but right now it doesn't matter much - I'm about shooting more than collecting.

Plus the newer models can dismount the cylinder without needing to unscrew the ejector rod. That's a bonus to me. Don't know what year that came about.
 
Mark-II, i'm with you on the hammer mounted firing pin. My favorite smiths to shoot all have it.

On the lock, i have 3 or 4 smiths with it. I've been shooting them lot's (1000's of rounds) and never have had the lock "turn it self on" I'd just as soon not have it, but it doesn't really bother me either. It has 0 affect on the trigger pull so I can't get that worked up over it. I imagine when Smith redesigns tooling when the current stuff wears out they will remove it, but i bet their lawyers wring their hands at night at the though of removing a "safety device", as foolish as it is. If your buying a shooter, just get a new one and have at it. A non-locking model will be a better collecting investment, but if you shoot it lots, your devaluing your investment anyways.
 
I think I read somewhere of someone having the lock removed and filling the frame hole... But if you're willing to go to that extreme it's best to just buy an older gun, I'd think.

Local dealer here has a nice looking older 586 that I'd love to pick up. Wish I had seen it before I bought a new one....it's cheaper for one thing lol.

Perhaps if he still has it in a month....

But my 586 does have a very sweet SA trigger. I don't shoot DA for more than close range zombie attack drills at the end of the evening (bit of fun after the zen of target shooting), so I've not done much to adjust mainspring tension.
 
Well , I just ordered a new one. What's this cowboyed shooting about? I have a SA .45 and know how that works , but when you say that you use it in SA and not DA, do you mean that you manually #### the hammer for each shot opposed to pulling the trigger only?
 
Yup. Manually #### it as SA or pulling the trigger as DA.
Brianma65 said:
Well , I just ordered a new one. What's this cowboyed shooting about? I have a SA .45 and know how that works , but when you say that you use it in SA and not DA, do you mean that you manually #### the hammer for each shot opposed to pulling the trigger only?
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Can anyone recommend a good place to buy wood grips , holsters ,etc? Anything I should be concerned with , regards to loading my own cartridges? Lol .. Thanks and sorry for all the questions.
 
Cowboyed (or hollywood) in terms of swing out cylinder revolvers is a derogatory term used to describe the practice of thumbing the cylinder release and using a rapid wrist snap to flick the cylinder open and closed.

Don't do this.

As unlike putting a noob scratch on a 1911, this practice can cause actual physical damage to the crane.


Ps - yes I manually #### for each shot. Slow n sweet baby!
 
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