New to Handgun reloading, .45ACP

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calvin5673

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Hey all,


Im a relative newcomer to the reloading game, only about a years exp. reloading .223, maybe 2000 rounds. Recently decided I didn't like paying 2 arms a leg and my left ear for .45ACP ammo, plus I enjoy reloading and have most of the major equipment already. So here's what I need to know:

1) Everything. :p

I've watched a ton of videos and read more than few websites and posts. The dies, 3 die set or 4? basically do I need to crimp? Never have on my .223 and have had excellent results. Also I can barely hit my targets with a handgun anyways so super consistency isn't huge factor.

And wheres my best bet for getting bulk bullets? and if I go to LRN am I going to have an easier/harder time with the whole process?

Heard that sometimes .45 is loaded with small pistol primers other times with large? Yes, no? easy to tell?

Finally all said and done does reloading (lets assume my time is free) .45ACP work out much cheaper than buying bulk (+/- $0.55/rd)

Thats all for now folks,
Thanks in advance! :D
 
way cheaper reloading, bras is easily found on CGN, my guess at cost $0.10 each, majority are large primers, there are small primers out there, if you get brass from range you likely will have both, easy to tell the difference between them, I use 4 die on a Hornday progressive, I also crimp
 
I load 45 on a progressive 3-die press, then run each round through a factory crimp die. You can use the bullet seater to crimp if you don't want to bother with the FC, but you do need to crimp or you'll have bullets being driven back into the case.
MARSTAR sells bulk jacketed bullets.
Yes, these days there are 45 cases that use small pistol primers. I usually discard these as they're still the minority compared to large pistol primer cases, and yes, you can tell by looking at the case if it's small or large primed.
Can't speak to cost saving, I haven't bought factory 45's in a long time.
Hope this helped.
 
yes 45acp is a great round for saving money, or shooting more for the same price, when reloading. cast bullets (even if you buy cast) makes it that much cheaper.

i just use the lee crimp/bullet seat die with a light crimp, if it's only a couple bucks more i would opt for the 4 die just in case. with the 4 die set you can have the 3rd die seat the bullet then the 4th crimp only.

once i have enough brass to start cleaning them i will fill 50 rounds trays from factory ammo with clean brass. i flip them over (primer side up) and scan for small pistol primers and set them to the side. once i have 400 or more of the small pistol i will convert my pro1000 to small pistol and reload them. i don't change my load data as i don't go near max powder charges.

using prices from 3-4 years ago a box of 50 using my cast bullets costs around $6. using plated or jacketed closer to $10-12.
 
I run 4 dies I love my lee factory crimp die provides reliable consistent ammo. Btw im using lee classic turret press.
 
45Acp is a great caliber to load. I use Lee Dies with factory crimp. You can use any type bullet you like, a 45 never seems to be to picky. Leads your cheapest bet. Berry and Campro also reasonable price. Again 45 is not picky about powder. Try some 200gr LSWC with n310, it will make look like Dead Eye ####;). I believe Henry at Budget Shooting Supply has 200LSWC in stock.
Didn't note if you said pistol was new or not. Lead loads can cause some cycling problems in a new pistol due to lower pressures and tight fit of gun. If you find this, load some hardball and shoot those until the gun breaks in. A hundred rounds or so do the trick.
 
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At current costs for components and powder .45acp will run you about .25 cents a round. Back before the present panic pricing I was buying the plated bullets and loading up .45acp for just a hair under 22 cents a round. But it's all gone up now. It may well be a few to a bunch of 1/10's over 25 cents.

If loading cast rounds I strongly suggest you go with separate seating and crimping. If you try to do it all in one go you run the risk of the crimp going in and plowing lead ahead of the mouth and the buildup holding your gun from going into battery. Been there and have the round that need to be shot in some other gun which isn't as fussy.
 
Brianma65 said:
Any reason why no one is taper crimping with the seater die? That's all I use for 9 mm.
Click to expand...

I have hornady seating die that taper crimps, i crimp to .472 and check each one in case gage

check the cases for primer size and load small and large they are both ok.
 
HI; A few random thoughts. Range brass, shot in others gun can be bulged in unsupported barrels, so I push all fired brass through a Lee BULGE buster die to reform the out side rim.
Seat the bullet in one step and taper crimp in a separate step to avoid causing your own issue.
Measure the top of the brass to make sure it is not over crushed or to flared and will not fully chamber. Look in the reloading book for measurement .473 come to mind but read the book.
200 grain bullets are good plinkers, Round nose bullets are less hassel and cycle in almost all guns.
Be sure the ogive is deep enough as to not interfere with chambering as there is almost no free bore on most guns.
VERINER is your friend, measure the over all length, push bullet to deep will pump up the pressure.
 
45 ACP is just about the most forgiving thing in the world to reload. 90% of what people have said are totally optional, but may make life easier. If you can reload a rifle cartridge, you will be amazed how easy it is. Primer brand and size don't matter. Brass lasts until you lose it. Any powder that's in the manual will work great (look to the fast end). You can make stuff that will make your hand tingle, or powder puff bullseye loads. Dead soft lead to rich-people JHPs all work. There is considerable leeway in OAL depending on what your gun will feed (remembering to drop the charge if you go shorter).
 
Getting brass can be problematic. Everyone is cheap at our range (almost everyone seems to reload). Anyone that finds a single round on the ground is on it like a fat kid on a smartee. I don't like buying other peoples brass, and if you have to buy, I found it cheaper to buy a k of loaded rounds and use the brass off that.
 
I've loaded thousands of lead bullets in my .45 seating and crimping at the same time.
Just set the die till the it takes the bell out and the mouth measures .470 on your calipers.
These have almost all been random range brass, never used a bulge buster, I think they were invented for .40 cal Glocks.
 
In my experience a small percentage of your brass will split over time but I have found 45 acp brass to be resilient. I have brass from the late 80's that have been loaded To the point where the case markings on some have worn. It's a practice I do not recommend and one I will stop as the brass I have will outlive me. I have never had a case head failure
 
4 die set here, on a hornady pro7 loaded over 1/4 million rounds on it and still plugging
I like taper crimps on all my pistol loads

If you need brass, phoenix or wild west in edmonton sells once fired brand name brass
 
I use a taper crimp die to just get rid of the slight flare from bullet seating and haven't had a problem in decades. Like most auto's the 45 headspaces off the mouth of the case so a roll crimp would be a bad idea.
The Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die is the answer to a non-existant problem and can actually cause problems by undersizing cast bullets when it resizes the loaded round, I can't imagine why you would want to or need to rezize a reloaded round. Great marketing by Lee I guess.
I have never seen a bulged 45 ACP brass other than one that was double loaded by a guy at our range years ago, luckily it was a really light load and he and his pistol weren't hurt other than his pride. Like others have said, that is mainly a 40 S&W problem from early Glocks with unsupported chambers, 40 S&W has a SAAMI max. pressure of 35,000 psi and even 45 ACP +P is only 23,000 psi.
 
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