What free floating AR15 barrel nut do I need for this hanguard? + CQ-A Whisper pic

Juster

Juster

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I have the free floating AR15 handguard parts below, I got them free, but I don't have the barrel nut thingy.
I know little about AR building and would love some expert wisdom. Or any input at all :)
My question is, would this amazon part fit? ht tp://www.amazon.ca/Ar-15-Free-Float-Barrel-Nut/dp/B00C5USK6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429838188&sr=8-1&keywords=Ar-15+Free+Float+Barrel+Nut
41zRUdnVX5L._SY355_.jpg

handguard.jpg


If anybody is interested, my CQ-A barrel came off easily with a Marstar wrench.
The 300 Whisper barrel wants to go on, but need the free floating nut:
(The barrel came off easily with the Marstar wrench, No Dremel required, Jerry @ Mystic had me worried)
nobarrel.jpg
 
If it's as pictured, no, it won't fit.

That looks like a LaRue style of rail.

The barrel nut will look similar to have, but a lot thinner.

And somewhere, there is suppose to be pins. They go into the holes of the barrel nut and into the holes you see inside the back of your rail.

There is a possibility, with the right tools and skills, you could cut that amazon nut down and fit it into that rail.

Ideally, a machinist to lathe it down. Now, that assume that nut is the right diameter. Then it would also need a lip on the back of it, that the big hand nut would fit into.

Quick search of youtube shows how a rail of this style goes together.

Skip to about 3:10 and note the design of the barrel nut.

[youtube]yXiPXXvLeDU[/youtube]
 
Happy ending, thanks Conte.
ar.jpg

I got a forend from canadaammo $49.99, it arrived today. It is a bit like a UTG. I think the threads are a bit off on the Norinco, it was tight.
 
The Norinco receiver threads. I had 2 different barrel nuts for different rails, 1 only went on 2/3 of the way, the other was murder. I don't mean torquing it, just finger tight to the point where the barrel doesn't wobble. I got the impression that the thread pitch was slightly off. I thought it was the barrel nut, but 2 different kinds had the same problem.
They were both cheap chinese handguards. I haven't heard anyone else complain, and the threads aren't damaged, I'm surprised there was a problem. Maybe it's just me.
The rail above has good access to the adjustable gas plug.
It is 23" with the stock closed, I'll put something on the rail to stop my hand sliding over the muzzle. The Sterling had a little lip on the right, but underneath seem to work better with this guy.
Again, thanks for your help.
 
Oh ok, that's different. I've ran into a barrel nut just not matching well the a receiver and could not get the gas tube channel to line up within torque specs but you situation is quite a bit more.

Good thing it worked out.

For a hand stop, what I like to do it put a Flip Front Sight on the top of the rail, but put it backwards so the horns point forward.
Since I typically hold my AR using the TOF grip as I call it, that's where you have your thumb going over top, my thumb indexes up against the buis and that's my stop.
 
Conte said:
For a hand stop, what I like to do it put a Flip Front Sight on the top of the rail, but put it backwards so the horns point forward.
Since I typically hold my AR using the TOF grip as I call it, that's where you have your thumb going over top, my thumb indexes up against the buis and that's my stop.
Click to expand...
I torqued it to 30 and the gas tube was perfect. I was expecting a struggle, but no.
I have a backwards 45 degree front sight at the moment, so 1.30 o'clock, but that isn't perfect for the TOF grip. It does give an index so you know where your hand is, and finally justifies my rear 45 degree sight :).
 
Hmmm. 30 is too loose. I think minimum is 30-35, max is 80 and target is 50 to 60.

I think you can get way with 30, but it could come loose easy.
Perhaps if you find yourself working on it again one day, or feel like working on it, try seeing if you can line it up with the next hole over while staying under 80 lbs.

If not, and you do want it tighter I know some tricks to fit it.
 
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