Modifying a S&W Model 10 from 12.6 to restricted

Ardrossin

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Is there some way, without breaking the bank, of modifying a S&W model 10 with a 4 inch bull barrel so that it is restricted and not prohib, without completely ruining the aestethics of the revolver? I have had it suggested to replace it with a 6 inch barrel, even a pencil barrel, which both defeat the purpose.
 
Depends on what you think is aesthetically pleasing. I like a 6" barrel. A 4.1" barrel would take it out of Prohib, but it's unlikely you'll find one out there... I think 4.1" was made for the Canadian Market (mostly), so would have only appeared on newer pistols.

I've heard tell of a gunsmith doing wonders, though that comes with a hefty bill, and unless the gun has sentimental value, it probably wouldn't be worth the effort. You'd have to find the right gunsmith, and run the numbers.
 
I have seen them bored out and sleeved with an extra bit of barrel. That would take a decent gunsmith to do since it's not just changing parts...
 
There is not enough metal to put a 0.357 liner in a K frame barrel... ...the threads are 0.532-36 so there is about 70 thous between outside of forcing cone and the bore in which you need to share between original barrel material and liner.
 
There are some 5 inch barrels for the Mod 10 - this was an issue length for the RCMP for many years. Talk to Murray Charlton (google Murray Charlton enterprises) He'll give you a good idea of what's involved. A 4.2 inch L frame barrel should work too.
 
The centre of cylinder to center of bore is different between K and L frame and the L threads are 0.562-36 so extensive rework required of an L frame barrel.

The 5 inch M10 bbl swap is certainly the most cost effective way.

If realy wanting an a 4.2 inch K frame, think that the new M66 comes this way, but then you'd have to put up with adjustable sights and the temptation to put full house loads through it.
 
There has been a somewhat steady appearance of prohib to restricted revolver conversions on the EE over the past couple of years. The process involves boring the barrel out and sleeving it with a longer 4.2 inch long sleeve then pressing or welding a button on the end that is finished to the same outer size as the barrel. They look a little odd from the side since the front sight is still in the original spot with the extension sticking out ahead.

These converted revolvers are selling for $500 to $550. So it can't be all THAT expensive a process.

You can see what the finished product looks like by the pictures of the two that are currently for sale on the EE....

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...0-13-Glock-27-Tanfoglio-limited-pro-NEW-PRICE
 
There has been a somewhat steady appearance of prohib to restricted revolver conversions on the EE over the past couple of years. The process involves boring the barrel out and sleeving it with a longer 4.2 inch long sleeve then pressing or welding a button on the end that is finished to the same outer size as the barrel. They look a little odd from the side since the front sight is still in the original spot with the extension sticking out ahead.

These converted revolvers are selling for $500 to $550. So it can't be all THAT expensive a process.

You can see what the finished product looks like by the pictures of the two that are currently for sale on the EE....

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...0-13-Glock-27-Tanfoglio-limited-pro-NEW-PRICE

I saw a 686 (?) like this at the HACS Gun Show in Chilliwack in March. The original barrel must have been very close to non-prohib. length because the sleeve only showed as slightly rounded at the end; I don't remember seeing an actual button. I didn't particularly notice the sights looking odd on that one. Vendor was asking $750 I think. I nearly bought it. The outside was a bit rough but mechanically it felt fine and the bore was good.

:) Stuart
 
I know of a 4 inch model 66 that was bored and sleeved, after some time ( a few months) rounds?, the barrel and liner separated
at the forcing cone, hence a lot of money wasted.
I don't know why you would spend that kind of money on a model 10
 
Exactly the outcome one should expect!
Just not enought metal for thing to hold together.

I know of a 4 inch model 66 that was bored and sleeved, after some time ( a few months) rounds?, the barrel and liner separated
at the forcing cone, hence a lot of money wasted.
I don't know why you would spend that kind of money on a model 10
 
Done the right way, the sleeve scheme is just like a Dan Wesson barrel, or the newer S&W 2-part barrels. The "liner" is the barrel, is threaded, etc. The old barrel is bored out quite a bit. There are many different ways to hold everything on and together when complete. Nothing fails or "de-laminates" if done right. S&W actually went to this barrel design, certainly my 60-18 barrel is made this way, and it's a wonderfully accurate and sturdy little revolver. 5 inch barrel.
 
I certainly agree that the new barrel/shroud method works out for the barrel/frame interface issues with traditional liners; however, it gets tricky at the business end if one is looking to retain the tapered pencil barrel required by the OP.
Done the right way, the sleeve scheme is just like a Dan Wesson barrel, or the newer S&W 2-part barrels. The "liner" is the barrel, is threaded, etc. The old barrel is bored out quite a bit. There are many different ways to hold everything on and together when complete. Nothing fails or "de-laminates" if done right. S&W actually went to this barrel design, certainly my 60-18 barrel is made this way, and it's a wonderfully accurate and sturdy little revolver. 5 inch barrel.
 
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