Tips or Tricks for M&P

Still alive said:
Brianma,
Do you have perfect eyesight? I have poor close range vision so I need corrective lenses to actually pick up my sights. Real pain with scopes too! My handgun sights are always fuzzy regardless of what kind I have. I'm always looking for something I can see clearly without corrective lenses.
I don't even know if the ones I'm thinking about exist for the M&P but the undercut front sights like the older S&W target sights on the K frame revolvers are really good for target shooting as the undercut on the sight deflects light so the front sight is very clear. They don't make a good choice for holster use as they may snag leather during the draw, Kydex, not so much.
If your M&P is only for target use and you want the blacked out front sight, see if anyone here has info on the undercut ones ( maybe S&W themselves can help?) Good luck Brian!
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Sadly only my hindsight is 20/20 :) But I can still see the sights fine , I just don't like having to cover the target with my from sight. And all that space between the front blade and back blades , suck.
 
Brianma65 said:
Sadly only my hindsight is 20/20 :) But I can still see the sights fine , I just don't like having to cover the target with my from sight. And all that space between the front blade and back blades , suck.
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Millet? Bo-Mar? Novek ( don't think there's an adjustable version though)? Bo Mar makes really nice target adjustable sights, esp for 1911. Give them a look see.
 
My eyes are not very good, so I use shooting glasses with the right lens set to make the front sight sharp. I have several M&Ps, and ordered a new front sight for each, to correct the elevation error and while I was at it, I ordered a narrower sight, so there is lots of light on each side of the sight. I find this makes it faster to get on aim and easier to center up in the rear sight.
 
dinsdale said:
Depends on the competition.
IPSC yes, IDPA no.
No idea CQB or SR
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I should clarify,
Sight don't matter as long as it is the same style. i.e. notch & post
Trigger work can be done but replacing trigger with something like an Apex will move you from SSP or Production into ESP or Standard.

I could be wrong, there were changes to rule books recently and I have not updated my knowledge yet.
 
tiriaq said:
Being able to actually zero the pistol is worthwhile, regardless of the shooting discipline.
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At what distance would you normally zero it at? I am also sure it would depend on what type of competition you would be going into but is there a general guideline especially for new shooters. I guess once you have that consistent grouping is when zeroing would be a factor. My groupings on my M&P 22 are way better than my M&P 9 as have had the 22 longer.
 
Can someone please explain why the apex forward sear trigger kit is $165US at brownells or apex yet it is $300Cad ctcsupplies and $321cad at amazon? Plus shipping and taxes i might add. Am i missing something?
 
Protege said:
Can someone please explain why the apex forward sear trigger kit is $165US at brownells or apex yet it is $300Cad ctcsupplies and $321cad at amazon? Plus shipping and taxes i might add. Am i missing something?
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I just ordered the competition enhancement kit from brownells , for my buddy.. $130 all in. The kit your looking at would cost you about $230 all in.
 
dinsdale said:
I should clarify,
Sight don't matter as long as it is the same style. i.e. notch & post
Trigger work can be done but replacing trigger with something like an Apex will move you from SSP or Production into ESP or Standard.

I could be wrong, there were changes to rule books recently and I have not updated my knowledge yet.
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You have it right. The trigger replacement puts you into ESP. The Competition or Duty Kit is what you want from Apex. I have the FSS & trigger in one of my M&P's and it really does nothing for me. Some it might but for shooting IDPA, unless you are really, really good I am not sure there is much advantage to the trigger and it does take you out of SSP Division.. If I had to do it all over again and on a budget I might just buy the Apex USB and trigger return spring. The former smooths out the trigger and the latter will reduce the trigger pull down some. Otherwise either the Duty Kit or Competition Kit turns the gun into a very respectable piece of kit for playing IDPA.

One thing I did that aids in the grip is to stipple the back strap , the piece that you can replace (S,M,L). I used a cheap sodering gun from Canadian Tire. Just do the replaceable back strap or you get moved to EDP. The back straps are cheap from Brownells so if you screw up you can always get another.

Take Care

Bob
 
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