How important is an expensive m14 scope mount?

45ACPKING said:
scope mounts have nothing to do with accuracy, the mechanics of your rifle and the trigger man's ability to shoot dictate how accurate it is or isn't
the best mount in the world installed by the best smith in the world will not make a crappy shooting rifle into a tack driver.
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I agree with that, I just want to hear someone say that I dont need to spend big money for a mount! My cheap ass wants to keep the one I already have and not have a reason to buy a new one LOL

I am a fairly decent shooter so I KNOW its not be causing 8" groups with my m14. My buddy who is even better than me, got the same type of group when he was behind my gun.

Before dropping money on a new mount, im gonna "look at the small things" and install my cheek riser. After that if she sill dont shoot, maybe it will be time to look at the optic setup.

As for irons, I honestly havent tried them yet outside of 25 yards. Still lots to do and lots of time to do it! lol
 
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the problem with most cheap mounts is that they don't tension correctly and shake loose and while they still seem tight, the mount is shifting under recoil and throwing rounds all over the place
yes, there are some of the more beefier aluminum mounts , made for the m14/m1a rifle (not airsoft) that are decent , but often with these mounts, the fasteners are total junk and either strip or break or are just ill fitting.

the cheapest mounts, with proven track records spanning years of use that I would steer someone too cost 200 bucks or there abouts
 
84wh1 said:
Before dropping money on a new mount, im gonna "look at the small things" and install my cheek riser. After that if she sill dont shoot, maybe it will be time to look at the optic setup.

As for irons, I honestly havent tried them yet outside of 25 yards. Still lots to do and lots of time to do it! lol
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Here's a complete list of things to check...

http://m14forum.com/reference/73926-m14-m1a-health-check.html

Tony.
 
I've always been of the opinion that you are better off with a cheaper rifle with expensive optics than an expensive rifle with cheap optics. Mount's are part of the optics package as are rings. Can't say I'm a fan of the casm as it eliminates the iron sights completely but others seem to like them. If you really want to do it cheap a couple of hose clamps will hold your scope in place sort of. I don't use a scope much on m14 but I do have a Smith mount for one of them. Seems pretty solid.
 
I used to shoot the nads off gophers at a thousand yards with my Norinco........... and then....... ah, I awoke from my slumbers...now, onto the question:- As Tony Ben and 45ACPKING have already alluded to, money spent on a quality mount is not wasted. If you wish to retain use of irons use a ARMS or Sadlak. If you can happily dispense with irons then use the CASM which is really quite excellent.
 
Believe me I understand the concept of trying to build a shooter on a budget (I've been gathering parts to do my m305 mod stock project for months already & could be months more before complete), but I also subscribe to the quality mount mentality. Your looking at $400-$800 for good optics so why mount it on $100 mounts & cheap rings? My feeling is a quality mount removes at least one possibility from the list of accurizing variables.
 
We have had excellent user feedback over the past 7 years from our 7075 aluminum CASM GEN II scope mount. Designed and made in Canada and priced at $140, the CASM GEN II will not shoot loose, period. Each large 1/4x20TPI fastener is set with a set screw + MIL-S-46163A blue threadlocker ships with each mount. You will never have to shim it, nor worry about receiver side walls being to spec., nor worry about modern optic oculars interfering with iron sight apertures, nor problems with short eye relief scopes, it's never too low, so no cartridge case jams will occur due to the mount itself. You can set it for "0" MOA upon installation. Removing the irons and adding a CASM adds "0" weight gain to your rifle. It is also one of the longest mounts made and installs n 15 minutes. If you need a mount, call me directly. Cheers, Frank G., Owner, M14.ca

CASM-S.BUIS.jpg
 
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A scope mount is important of course, now having said that your rifle is shooting within specifications for a rack grade M305. U can make em shoot better if U want to spend the bucks. U must have the knowledge on where and how to spend the money on making it more accurate. Do not expect to get better accuracy until you at least start loading your own ammunition. The M305 is incredibly sensitive to loads, powder and bullet type. I have made a few changes in mine including a Sage EBR stock and carefully prepared hand loads. With these changes I am getting about 1moa or better. You have already done the basics with the op rod guide and the op rod spring, try changing out the gas piston to a Sadlak as well. Gas pistons can also have a huge implication on accuracy. The US Marine Corps rifle teams are well aware of this and they routinely change out gas pistons until they find the right one. Dont ask me why this is so only the gun gods know and they ante tellen us mortals.
 
has it really been 7 years LOL
it does go by fast but some of us were around for that debut
still 4 or 5 years, and seems fairly popular

I'd use a mount like the casm or troy battle rail , but everyone knows I love keeping my irons
I have a troy chassis in my closet just in case I get the urge LOL
 
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eaglesnester said:
Gas pistons can also have a huge implication on accuracy.
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The Chinese gas cylinder bores may not be to GI spec. so adding a new piston with a new diameter may not have desirable results. It may even make accuracy worse. Ideally, you need a matched gas cylinder and gas piston and a properly timed gas lock to lock it up nice from 4:30/5 o'clock... . :)
 
M14.CA said:
The Chinese gas cylinder bores may not be to GI spec. so adding a new piston with a new diameter may not have desirable results. It may even make accuracy worse. Ideally, you need a matched gas cylinder and gas piston and a properly timed gas lock to lock it up nice from 4:30/5 o'clock... . :)
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The Sadlak gas pistons fit the ChiCom M305, I have two, one is grooved for 168gr rounds and heaver up to 175 gr. The other is for NATO rounds which are around 147 gr or so and is not grooved. there is a difference. My rifle passes the tilt test with the Sadlak gas pistons it does not pass the tilt test with OEM ChiCom pistons. Yes lock up is important and at 4:30 is just about perfect. Not to get off the subject but I also have a stacking problem. I routinely get doubling bump fire and a failure to #### the hammer in auto mode. Going to send it down to Bits of Pieces in Vancouver for a trigger job and machining of the trigger well on the stock for proper lock up of the trigger group.
 
84wh1 said:
I agree with that, I just want to hear someone say that I dont need to spend big money for a mount! My cheap ass wants to keep the one I already have and not have a reason to buy a new one LOL

I am a fairly decent shooter so I KNOW its not be causing 8" groups with my m14. My buddy who is even better than me, got the same type of group when he was behind my gun.

Before dropping money on a new mount, im gonna "look at the small things" and install my cheek riser. After that if she sill dont shoot, maybe it will be time to look at the optic setup.

As for irons, I honestly havent tried them yet outside of 25 yards. Still lots to do and lots of time to do it! lol
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8 inch groups at 100 meters is within specks for the M305, it is a battle rifle. They will however shoot better than that.
 
eaglesnester said:
The Sadlak gas pistons fit the ChiCom M305, I have two, one is grooved for 168gr rounds and heaver up to 175 gr. The other is for NATO rounds which are around 147 gr or so and is not grooved. there is a difference. My rifle passes the tilt test with the Sadlak gas pistons it does not pass the tilt test with OEM ChiCom pistons. Yes lock up is important and at 4:30 is just about perfect. Not to get off the subject but I also have a stacking problem. I routinely get doubling bump fire and a failure to #### the hammer in auto mode. Going to send it down to Bits of Pieces in Vancouver for a trigger job and machining of the trigger well on the stock for proper lock up of the trigger group.
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I would not send yer m14 to that place, I would run out of fingers and toes counting how many folks with these rifles have had very unsatisfactory results. many have even posted about it in the past. they do good work there, just not to these rifles.
 
I owned the ncstar mount and it was garbage! Went to the casm and no disappointment there. Worth the money. But as others have stated if you can't shoot tighter groups with irons, it may be the rifle or your shooting ability. There is a lot of kick out of the 305. Hold her tight.
 
Well I tweeked with my gun today. I realized that the barrel band was really tight into the stock feral (no gap at all as Tony Ben suggested) so I added a couple shims that I has laying around. The gas lock tightened up decently snug at 6 now (and has a small gap) where as before without shims it was tight at 6 with NO GAP. The bottom lip of the band does sit tight on the feral as well now)

I also sanded down some on the inside of the forend of the Norc plastic stock where it was coming into contact with the gun. I also removed my bipod (had it mounted using a swivel stud in the hole at the front/ bottom of the forend) as I noticed the nut inside was contacting the gas cylinder.

I've also added a tacpro cheek riser which should improve groups.

Hopefully some of this will help a little. At this point, I still re installed the scope mount that I had (it will be temporary) and will keep it on until I get something better. I added some loctite so hopefully it will hold for now.

I will report back once I get to shooting her again. Prob gonna pick up some new rings and maybe a vortex crossfire 4-12 this week (the cabelas pine ridge and no name rings were on the rifle when I got it off the EE and the plan was always short term use).
 
84wh1 said:
Well I tweeked with my gun today. I realized that the barrel band was really tight into the stock feral (no gap at all as Tony Ben suggested) so I added a couple shims that I has laying around. The gas lock tightened up decently snug at 6 now (and has a small gap) where as before without shims it was tight at 6 with NO GAP. The bottom lip of the band does sit tight on the feral as well now)
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Where's this gap you're referring to?
 
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