First time out with my mosin was... interesting
- Thread starter Rifter
- Start date
I tried to use heat shrink tubing... it works, but I sucked at cutting it right. With JB - after mixing, I left it to "dry" for about 20-30 minutes, then applied blob with toothpick. Left it upsidedown to set and dry overnight, then shaped sight post with x-acto knife and needle file ;]
Got the scope mounted, hopefully it works out this time, but i can always go back to the irons i guess if all else fails.
I have the same mount, got it a month or two ago, havent used it yet. Maybe mine will fair better ? Did you use the tensioner screw under the scope too ? I mean for a 40$ mount, it feels pretty study but i will test mine out soon
I got it for 20, and yes I used both vertical screws, I did not however drill the top of the dovetail to give anything for those 2 vertical screws to grip into.
I'm thinking maybe too trying to use the original pins and drill a little hole through both sides and tapping the pins through again to grip it as well. If i bugger it up well... i guess that's on me but after reading your thread saying it came loose, i had high hopes when i first saw we have the same one.
I thought of that as well, but as you can see from the pics the pin holes are mostly below the scope mount, might be able to notch the bottom of the rail and have it hold the pin that way.
I think the locktite was the issue, might give it another shot without it. I tightened them as much as I thought the aluminum threads could take for the two main screws on the rail.
And just past finger tight for the ring screws, the rings stayed perfect its the bottom rail screws that came loose after the locktite melted and the whole mount shifted forward to the point its now touching the hand guard.
Hahahah. I feel like we're going through this together man hahaha....well just an hour or so ago i took the scope and mount off, took the tensioner screw out, positioned it as i wanted, tightened the side bolts, removed the tensioner, drilled a tiny recess using the tensioner hole as a guide, can now feel the tensioner screw stop when you slide it forward and back. Put th blue locktite on the tensioner screw and just tightened up the sides. If i need more if it moves, im drilling the pins in. I just need to get some range time.
The blue locktite will melt, that was my issue, and I wasn't burning the barrel either, was letting it cool and it still melted. Im going to try no locktite, then high temp Loctite if that fails
I bought one of these. I'm going to drill and tap a third screw in to apply more even pressure. No lock tight at first. Failing that, I'll try the Red Lock Tite.
It might even be worth replacing the screws with longer ones and tightening nuts on the back to lock the screws into the aluminum threads.
It might even be worth replacing the screws with longer ones and tightening nuts on the back to lock the screws into the aluminum threads.
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That also could seem like a good idea.......
I've read all the posts in this thread and I can't understand for the life of me why everyone is hell bent on wasting money on this mount or that mount over the existing rails that are part of the barrel and available for mounting standard steel rings for a low and centered scope mounting.
There are those that say that it doesn't lock in the scope and it slides off during firing. But these same individuals will drill into the bought base adapters to lock them into that same existing base but never think of simply locking the steel rings to the base with a mig welded stop at the front end.
That's all it takes boys to make the best and cheapest base of all. I welded a small piece of a allen key to the extreme front end and installed the front steel ring to rest against it, problem solved.
We have fired more than a hundred rounds through it so far and still like the day it was installed.
It's impossible to mount a scope any lower than that. Comes up like a dream and makes the perfect scout carbine.
Trick is never use cheap aluminum mounts or rings.
There are those that say that it doesn't lock in the scope and it slides off during firing. But these same individuals will drill into the bought base adapters to lock them into that same existing base but never think of simply locking the steel rings to the base with a mig welded stop at the front end.
That's all it takes boys to make the best and cheapest base of all. I welded a small piece of a allen key to the extreme front end and installed the front steel ring to rest against it, problem solved.
We have fired more than a hundred rounds through it so far and still like the day it was installed.
It's impossible to mount a scope any lower than that. Comes up like a dream and makes the perfect scout carbine.
Trick is never use cheap aluminum mounts or rings.
^^^^ It sounds like that would work but not all of us have welding machine at home...
That would cost a lot more than a couple of nuts n bolts.
Still, you make a good point if one had easy access to a welder. There's also something to be said for being able to revert the installation back to original.
That would cost a lot more than a couple of nuts n bolts.
Still, you make a good point if one had easy access to a welder. There's also something to be said for being able to revert the installation back to original.
I don't have a welder at home but we all know someone who does and would add a tack for free or a few bucks. Cost me $5.
A file will return the gun back to original.
Tried a different program to post picture, didn't work.
A file will return the gun back to original.
Tried a different program to post picture, didn't work.
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This is a good idea, if I can find steel rings, most of the 3/8 dovetail rings are for airguns and made from aluminum.
