Looking for a stock for my new custom rifle and need advice!

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If my father left me that, there is no way in hell I would be dragging it through the bush. It is a lovely gun. Beautiful stock and a meaningful and unique touch on the butt plate. As I mentioned on the email, send a few pics of the action and markings and I will post them right up. Guys like Cat, Woodchopper, Lefty #### and others will likely be able to shed some light on what forces used that particular gun and for what specific purpose. If that were mine, I would want to know everything there is to know about it. Really nice.

I have a similar rifle from an uncle and I would like to see if they are similar. Please include a close up on all three sides of the action.
 
Nice piece of lumber for sure. Are you still considering a rubberized stock on the new one?

ABSOLUTELY MAN!!! That rifle as much as I love It the stock kicks the crap out of you. 4 shots while practicing I put a pillow in-between it and I. Got use to Princess real fast!!!! Shooting that 300wsm was like shooting a pellet gun in comparison.
 
If my father left me that, there is no way in hell I would be dragging it through the bush. It is a lovely gun. Beautiful stock and a meaningful and unique touch on the butt plate. As I mentioned on the email, send a few pics of the action and markings and I will post them right up. Guys like Cat, Woodchopper, Lefty #### and others will likely be able to shed some light on what forces used that particular gun and for what specific purpose. If that were mine, I would want to know everything there is to know about it. Really nice.

Now you know why I want to retire it! Thanks for the compliment.
 
Now back to the rifle you are in the process of deciding on. It seems you are not really decided, and a T3 with an aftermarket stock is nothing very special anyhow, so I am gonna make a couple of suggestions for you to ponder. For $1450 you can get a Sako A7 Roughtech Pro. It has the type of stock you are looking for, comes with two 5mm spacers to customize LOP, fluted barrel, and a nice squishy recoil pad. It is a really nice hunting rifle that offers a few upgrades over a Tikka T3. Just google A7 vs T3. Because it is new, you likely won't have guys sitting on either side of you at the range with the same rifle, as you may with a T3.

As for the Jard trigger, spend the cash if you want, but Sakos and Tikkas have triggers that many people consider very nice. For a hunting rifle, I do not think you need to change it at all, and 12 oz is just to light for most people anyway in a hunting situation.

Another gun you may want to look at is a Montana Rifle Co Extreme X2. Prophet River sells them in Canada. They are in a sense semi-custom as they are made to order. They are built on a Model 70 style action and come with the old model 70 trigger which is light years better than what they have now. The stock is made in house and is also quite nice. All reports have them as very accurate and people who have bought them seem to love them. As well, there is a huge range of cartridges they can be ordered in. Here is a link... http://montanarifleco.com/?page_id=180 In my opinion, this is as solid of a pure hunting rifle as is offered right now, and you will be way further ahead than chucking a different stock on a T3. I believe they about $1750 (ish).
 
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Thanks for getting back to the original thread! I have been shooting for many years, spent nearly every weekend for 5 years at a shooting club. Most people can not shot like I can, and there are many that can shoot better, my father was one!

When it comes to hunting with rifles I prefer the lightest trigger weight possible. With my last rifle I bought off the shelf I had the trigger adjusted to the lowest possible weight, which was 2 lbs. I believe, not low enough for my liking, which is why I am going with the Jard trigger system.

Once I am on target I want to breath on the trigger and let it fly, no point on overthinking everything! I was looking at Sakos the other day, I did not particularly like the fit for me. I was told by my gunsmith, that the Tikka out preforms the Sako.

I checked out the Sako A7 Roughtech Pro, nice rifle but at 7.49 lbs., so with the scope I am putting on it, that will be 9.11 lbs and a little on the heavy side for my liking.

Now back to the rifle you are in the process of deciding on. It seems you are not really decided, and a T3 with an aftermarket stock is nothing very special anyhow, so I am gonna make a couple of suggestions for you to ponder. For $1450 you can get a Sako A7 Roughtech Pro. It has the type of stock you are looking for, comes with two 5mm spacers to customize LOP, fluted barrel, and a nice squishy recoil pad. It is a really nice hunting rifle that offers a few upgrades over a Tikka T3. Just google A7 vs T3. Because it is new, you likely won't have guys sitting on either side of you at the range with the same rifle, as you may with a T3.

As for the Jard trigger, spend the cash if you want, but Sakos and Tikkas have triggers that many people consider very nice. For a hunting rifle, I do not think you need to change it at all, and 12 oz is just to light for most people anyway in a hunting situation.

Another gun you may want to look at is a Montana Rifle Co Extreme X2. Prophet River sells them in Canada. They are in a sense semi-custom as they are made to order. They are built on a Model 70 style action and come with the old model 70 trigger which is light years better than what they have now. The stock is made in house and is also quite nice. All reports have them as very accurate and people who have bought them seem to love them. As well, there is a huge range of cartridges they can be ordered in. Here is a link... http://montanarifleco.com/?page_id=180 In my opinion, this is as solid of a pure hunting rifle as is offered right now, and you will be way further ahead than chucking a different stock on a T3. I believe they about $1750 (ish).
 
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I was told by my gunsmith, that the Tikka out preforms the Sako.

No way... Tikka's were made as an entry level line... and do not have the overall quality of a Sako... that doesn't mean that they are necessarily inferior in the accuracy department... but if that is your only benchmark, you might as well drop an Axis into a Boyd's stock and be happy with your "custom" rifle.

If you weren't so hung up on the word "custom" (and it's meaning), many really excellent options would open up...
 
In strictly performance terms, in what way does the Sako outperform a Tikka?

Design intent, finish quality, aesthetics and such aren't measures of performance, to my mind.

I wouldn't argue if you said Sakos were "better" than Tikkas. "Better" is a subjective term, but "outperforms" implies objective measures.

Tikkas and Sakos are likely a wash in accuracy.

Their triggers are likely a wash as well.

Sakos have greater magazine capacity.

That leaves reliability and weight as objective "performance" criteria. Are Sakos more reliable than Tikkas? I simply don't know. I know Tikkas weigh less, across the board. Weight is probably not a performance criteria, on reflection.

Cheers,

D

No way... Tikka's were made as an entry level line... and do not have the overall quality of a Sako... that doesn't mean that they are necessarily inferior in the accuracy department... but if that is your only benchmark, you might as well drop an Axis into a Boyd's stock and be happy with your "custom" rifle.

If you weren't so hung up on the word "custom" (and it's meaning), many really excellent options would open up...
 
I am not really hung up on anything, maybe I am using the wrong vernacular, from now on I will call it the rifle I will design/modify for myself.

As for my gunsmith's opinion on the accuracy/consistency/variances (call it what you will) of the Tikka v Sako barrels. He shoots thousands of rounds a year, testing which bullet and Gr. work best in the particular rifle he sets up for scopes. In his opinion the consistency of the Tikka outperforms Sako. I have personally shot neither brand, so I am going to rely on his experience. At the end of the day, I am sure any variances between the two are less then minimal or discernable.

I like his approach, as an example when I purchased my last rifle, I sent him the rifle he then installed the scope and took it out to the range and shot several brands of bullets and Gr.'s though it and sent me all the data and targets. The bullet that that rifle liked best (a Browning Mountain Ti 300 WSM) was the Nosler Accubond Trophy Grade 180 Gr. cartridge. I used nothing but when I got it back, with awesome results.

I kinda prefer the Barnes bullet so I am hoping that Barnes out performs the Accubond in my next rifle, at the same time I am secretly hoping that the rifle prefers the cheapest bullets on the market, like the Winchester Super X! lol

No way... Tikka's were made as an entry level line... and do not have the overall quality of a Sako... that doesn't mean that they are necessarily inferior in the accuracy department... but if that is your only benchmark, you might as well drop an Axis into a Boyd's stock and be happy with your "custom" rifle.

If you weren't so hung up on the word "custom" (and it's meaning), many really excellent options would open up...
 
Your M-17 rifle is a beauty, with a fine piece of lumber, excellent machining, high grade blueing; it would be a treasure in anyone's gun safe. Just out of curiosity, was it converted to #### on opening? At one time that was a popular feature, but IMHO, weakens the extraction power of the action as it must #### and extract in a single motion, where #### on closing performs a single function with each movement. It appears to have kept the original two stage trigger which I also consider advantageous, and is an expensive upgrade if adapted to a modern sporting rifle.
 
Thanks for the compliment on my P17, yes it does in fact have the original two stage trigger and I love it!

I am not a gun collector, or any type of knowledgeable rifle connoisseur like Cat for example, could you explain what you mean by "#### on opening" thanks.

Your M-17 rifle is a beauty, with a fine piece of lumber, excellent machining, high grade blueing; it would be a treasure in anyone's gun safe. Just out of curiosity, was it converted to #### on opening? At one time that was a popular feature, but IMHO, weakens the extraction power of the action as it must #### and extract in a single motion, where #### on closing performs a single function with each movement. It appears to have kept the original two stage trigger which I also consider advantageous, and is an expensive upgrade if adapted to a modern sporting rifle.
 
No way... Tikka's were made as an entry level line... and do not have the overall quality of a Sako... that doesn't mean that they are necessarily inferior in the accuracy department... but if that is your only benchmark, you might as well drop an Axis into a Boyd's stock and be happy with your "custom" rifle.

If you weren't so hung up on the word "custom" (and it's meaning), many really excellent options would open up...

That's what I have wanted to say. Take this advice. There's nothing wrong with learning. An open mind is a fertile field. A closed mind is a septic tank.
 
Markings on my 30-06 P17 Enfield:

Ok I took out my rifle this morning, first thing he enthusiastically asked me with a big smile was: "Please tell me we are going Moose Hunting today" :eek:)

Ok so here are the markings, although after the blueing process a few marking are hard to make out, this is want I can read on the left side of the barrel.

Top line: BV with a mark on top - BP with a crown on top - NP with a crown on top followed by 30/03 and I thin 3.50 with a small square beside it.

Next Line: N with a little square on the top right G - 230 Bullet

Off the barrel on the breach: LV with a crown (I think) on top

On the Bolt: BV with a crown on top.

That is all.
 
Thanks for the compliment on my P17, yes it does in fact have the original two stage trigger and I love it!

I am not a gun collector, or any type of knowledgeable rifle connoisseur like Cat for example, could you explain what you mean by "#### on opening" thanks.

#### on opening is typical of the modern bolt action sporting rifles with which you are familiar, the action spring is compressed, and the firing pin is held in it's rearward position when you lift the bolt handle. #### on closing is when the action spring is compressed and the firing pin is held in it's rearward position as you push the bolt closed, typical of unaltered M-17, P-13 & P14 rifles, Lee Enfield rifles, and the M-96 family of Mauser Actions.
 
I'm not sure why the OP is starting out, thinking he can be all he can be, by window dressing a production rifle.
Start here:
http://www.pierceengineeringltd.com/category/actions/product/pierce-action
Then go here:
https://kriegerbarrels.com/
Or here:
https://m.facebook.com/jurycustombarrels?refsrc=https://www.facebook.com/jurycustombarrels
Then see a good gunsmith.
Who will fit and turn you up the rifle of your dreams.
He will also get you or make you a stock to your specs, and desires.

Then you'll have your custom made rifle.
 
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Looks to me like that this would be the case: #### on closing is when the action spring is compressed and the firing pin is held in it's rearward position as you push the bolt closed.

Just checked out the video you posted LD. Definitely a 1917. Thank you very much for sharing that, I just can't believe that I have been hunting with the same rifle that Sargent York used in action!!! Cary Cooper is on of my favorite actors and the movie Sargent York is on my top 10 favorite movies of all time! HOW COOL IS THAT!!!!

I guess that when my father explained that it was used in the war he was talking WWI not II, my mistake. He also explained to me that this rifle was designated and was used as a sniper rifle because the boring was perfect and that not all of these rifle were created equally. :eek:)

#### on opening is typical of the modern bolt action sporting rifles with which you are familiar, the action spring is compressed, and the firing pin is held in it's rearward position when you lift the bolt handle. #### on closing is when the action spring is compressed and the firing pin is held in it's rearward position as you push the bolt closed, typical of unaltered M-17, P-13 & P14 rifles, Lee Enfield rifles, and the M-96 family of Mauser Actions.
 
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Markings on my 30-06 P17 Enfield:

Ok I took out my rifle this morning, first thing he enthusiastically asked me with a big smile was: "Please tell me we are going Moose Hunting today" :eek:)

Ok so here are the markings, although after the blueing process a few marking are hard to make out, this is want I can read on the left side of the barrel.

Top line: BV with a mark on top - BP with a crown on top - NP with a crown on top followed by 30/03 and I thin 3.50 with a small square beside it.

Next Line: N with a little square on the top right G - 230 Bullet

Off the barrel on the breach: LV with a crown (I think) on top

On the Bolt: BV with a crown on top.

That is all.

The lack of flaming bomb markings, and the presence of the crown suggests the rifle was British. There should be the manufacturer's identity marked on the top of front bridge of the action, but is covered with the front scope mount. The 30/03 I think identifies the original .30/03 chambering, which is the cartridge that replaced the .30/40 Krag, and 3.50 is cartridge length with the 220 gr round nose bullet. Shortly after the adoption of the .30/03, the upgrade to the higher velocity .30/06 with it's lighter bullet was standardized, and the barrel shank was shortened by one thread, and was then rechambered to the slightly shorter .30/06 cartridge. The .30/06 with a 150 gr bullet loaded to 2700 fps replaced the .30-03's 220 gr bullet at 2400 fps. Someone better versed in the history of these rifles will be able to provide a better idea of it's heritage and the relevance of the other markings, but the .30/03, .30/06 markings and bolt face are inconsistent with the British rifles which were .303s, but a US rifle should have flaming bomb markings.
 
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