SAM Commander Tactical...issues?

I had mine out yesterday, ran fine. Fired a bunch of RN, as well as some gold dot HP. All were my reloads. First rounds through it, and all was good. I noticed the spring was much longer than the 20# wolf spring I have in the drawer, so I didn't know if I should change it out. I did notice it seemed weak though. My only ##### about the gun is why is there no full length guide rod? I mean come on!
 
jdman said:
I had mine out yesterday, ran fine. Fired a bunch of RN, as well as some gold dot HP. All were my reloads. First rounds through it, and all was good. I noticed the spring was much longer than the 20# wolf spring I have in the drawer, so I didn't know if I should change it out. I did notice it seemed weak though. My only ##### about the gun is why is there no full length guide rod? I mean come on!
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it was the first time I had mine out as well. I'm hoping to get it running smoothly. Turns out, the Commander feels really good in my hands. I'm going to degrease and lube with gun oil and try my lead reloads again as I'm just about out of ball. If over the next outing or two feed issues don't improve, then I will try a different (heavier?) spring.
 
Chuckbuster said:
I was wondering about the magazine as well. A friend with a full size SAM 1911, mentioned that he found some after market magazines to function better in his pistol than did the magazine it came with. I did clean the gun and lubricate with Gun Grease. Maybe I'll throw some more on. I'll lube'er up some more, try a couple of different mags and see if things settle in over the next few weeks. And, I guess it's Loc-Tite for the thread protector.
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I've got 4 SAMs in various configurations. The two 9mms and the 40 S&W came with Mec-Gar mags and the 45 Commander came with an ACT mag, all of which are pretty good quality. Not saying that mags can't be the problem but unlike, for example, Norincos, these don't come with cheap quality mags.
 
jdman said:
Yeah me too. I don't usually like railed 1911s, but this one is great. I usually get bored by the time I get a gun, but this one is a keeper. They are miles ahead of norinco for about 100$ more. Just wish it had the full length guide rod.
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I hated the standard FLGR on my Archangel but am much happier with the EGW kit I replaced it with. It's a 1/4 " FLGR set up with a Flat Wire spring. It's drilled and so easier to manage. I got a custom bushing cut at the same time which really tightened things up and should improve accuracy.
 
hercster said:
Mr.Wayne,

You might take a look at the EGW ambi. The retention system is much better IMO and the connection is reinforced by a tightly fitting sleeve over the joint. I can't see how it could break as once assembled, there is no wiggle room at all and it's like the shaft was one continuous rod. I have a similar system on my Night Hawk Custom and while not as good as the EGW, its very good. EGW just takes the idea further with that sleeve. Their parts are incredibly precise and a pleasure to work with even if the assembly is a bit demanding the first time. I needed to really think out the assembly sequence. They are also a very nice company to deal with as they are very friendly and helpful with excellent advice and explanations. They will be my go to from now on. They ship here too but have restrictions.
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ill add one to my next order from Brownells and give it a try.
 
wayupnorth said:
ill add one to my next order from Brownells and give it a try.
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The paddles on mine are fairly wide, they may have narrower options. If you do get one and I can help, PM me. Start by getting a smooth fit and rotation in the bare frame. As I said, I had to clean out the frame channel at the "nub" quite a bit. I used a pillar file I bought at Brownells and it was really a must as it has two safe edges. So you can widen that "channel" without deepening it. I'd by two files as I got a lot of use out of mine and it needs replaced. The one I got was flat and about 5-6 mm wide by 1.5 mm thick. Have fun !!

Another really useful tool is the 10-8 armourers block. It has holes for most common parts and jobs. It holds the safety perfectly so that you can file as the right angles. It also has two hole for the hammer and sear pins so that you can mount hammers and sears to test the interface and see your work clearly. You get a little booklet with suggested uses.
 
Well, following the advice, I removed the gun grease and wet it down instead with plain ol'Hoppes #9. I took it out again this weekend, but much to my horror, I didn't pack enough ammo for it: I only had about a box and a half of lead reloads with me (SWCs). However, I used what I had and the gun only had 1 failure to feed when my nephew limp wristed it. It ran flawlessly for me, and as I said previously, the inherent accuracy seems very good as I had no trouble hitting small metal plates at 25m.

My nephew shooting the Commander Tactical...however, as I discovered, if all that stood between us and zombies was him and the pistol...well, prepare to be zombified.



...But then...this is what he really wants to shoot when we go out...

 
Chuck,

I hate to go back on you, but I would use something with a little more body than Hoppes as it is more a cleaner/solvent. The are a gazillion oils on the market and more opinions than can be counted but many favour synthetic motor oil as in Mobil 1 which will cost you $1. for a long term supply. Now at risk of starting a major debate, I will tell you that I use Frog Lube. It works for me and many others but for some doesn't perform well in the cold. I treat all my guns with the paste when they are new and cook it in as per the instructions. Thereafter I use the liquid. I like it because it cleans up easily and doesn't smell like a dead rat. Many will argue these things and you can read threads on lubes until you go blind. I would think that long-term use of Hoppes will buy you wear.
 
No worries, hercster...I have some other oils I can use. It just so happened that I saw the Hoppes bottle while removing the gun grease, so I used it. But thanks for the additional heads up as I kind of wondered the same thing as I was applying it. Since the switch seems to have worked, I will just wash, rinse and repeat as they say, but with something a little more full bodied. Thanks.
 
Triflow all the way, try it once and you will understand why.

Find it at local bike shops, used it for over 30 years and no rust on anything either
 
hercster said:
I would start by up grading the recoil spring. Commanders are a little fussy in that respect. I have an 18.5 in mine. I've read reports of too soft springs in those guns.

The other common issue is with magazines. Because the cycle is shorter in commanders, timing is critical and you might get better results from other mags or heavier magazine springs.

As the gun breaks in, things will change and micro seconds count. I don't think that pistol is tight but breakin will make the cycle a tiny bit quicker.

Lubrication can be an issue in a new gun too. Many will tell you to run the gun wet.

I'm going to predict that your issues will get resolved. Try changes that don't cost much and are reversible like a recoil spring you can count on to be to spec. You can get a selection of Wolfe springs to try but 18 or 18.5 is what a lot of "experts" recommend.

You can try Blue Loctite on the threads to see if it handles the heat. Red will require heat to remove it. I don't have a threaded barrel but I might try a turn or two of pipe tape.

Gord
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In what way is the action shorter? The action still needs to cycle the same 45acp round at apx 1.2".
 
Actually the commanders have ~4mm less travel. If you measure the slides locked back of a full size govt model and commander you will see the difference.
Less travel = faster cycle rate.

Commanders need normally 18# recoil springs, and decent mages to operate reliably. Thats why with most commanders, finding brass is kind of hide and seek sometimes, as brass doesn't drop in a nice little area.
 
Chuckbuster said:
No worries, hercster...I have some other oils I can use. It just so happened that I saw the Hoppes bottle while removing the gun grease, so I used it. But thanks for the additional heads up as I kind of wondered the same thing as I was applying it. Since the switch seems to have worked, I will just wash, rinse and repeat as they say, but with something a little more full bodied. Thanks.
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ive got the same agun as you and so does my dad.
we both use G96 in ours and ive never had a failure of any kinds nor has my dads.
not saying G96 is the cure all..... but it is.
hahaha!

no seriously, nothing beats a good oil.
G96 gun treatment.
take gun down, spray foam on everything wait 1 minute, whip off, reassemble and your done. (and it smells good!)
and your also good to -50 if you should so choose.
 
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