Reloading goals

heronfish

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maybe a few of the old timers can give a newbie a few words of wisdom/encouragement.

I've hunted since as long as I remember and until a few years ago used the same gun with whatever 3006 ammo the hardware store had.

But in the last few years, I started buying additional guns and recently acquired my first loading set up. And until very recently, had never shot at a proper range with a good set up.

I don't want to shoot paper as a passion, but want to build accurate hunting ammunition. I've conducted a few ladder tests, but grouping is very similiar for every load. This is mostly due to my shooting ability. Because it is a hunting application in a hunting rifle, (3006 husqvarna in this case) do I simply take the max load and run? Practicing along with way with my rim fires on bench rest shooting.

Is this an honest goal, or am I selling myself short?
 
My words of encouragement with this great hobbie is safety of your reloads, meaning max loads are not necessarily always needed. Lots of times the difference between starting loads & Max loads is less than about 8% in FPS, but there is a sweet spot there in between where the groups should tighten up. There are so many other things that come into play (variables) that a couple of good reloading manuals will explain. Another good one to read is "The ABC"s of Reloading".

I hunt too & try for those close shots, meaning at a distance that you can put a 10" dinners sized plate group, consistently into. I use a pistol cartridge rifle for that so for me it is within 75 yds or so. I have passed up many shots because, well I don't need the meat that bad, & I didn't feel like tracking an injured animal. Either I'm getting lazy &/or getting old. (63) :confused:

The other advice is to read, read, understand & if you are still not sure, don't be hesitant to ask questions.
Safety & the fun factors are what it's all about for hunting, reloading ammo & for anything else that we all like to do! JMHO.

Thanks for your question, & hope this helps. I am sure you will get lots of good answers in this thread....

Cheers.:)
 
Pressure is affected by temperature so a max load in the fall can be over pressured in the summer, how far away are you shooting your ladder tests? Look up OCW load testing, works well for me. Basically round robin groups of 3 in .5 increments and watching where the groups print and move.
 
I reload to hunt, don't shoot much paper.

My goal is to use rounds that cost me a buck or less every time it goes bang instead of $2.50

I don't crank it up to the max load because most times it isn't needed.

I can put either of my two main hunting rifles in a gun vice and get well below 1" groups @ 100, but if I shoot the way I will hunt, front supported only, I'm more of an 1 1/2" shooter (twitches, shakes, whatever).

So I load for the best group. Not because I think I will get off five shots at the same animal, but if the first or the forth shot is going in pretty much the same place, I have probably wrung out most of the variables.

If that grouping comes just above/near/at a starting load, then that's what I will shoot. If it's up near a max load, then it gets the nod.

Depending on your components your best grouping could fall anywhere in a safe power charge range.

For me accuracy trumps speed every time.

If you are finding that your accuracy is no different, then the speed certainly won't hurt.
 
maybe a few of the old timers can give a newbie a few words of wisdom/encouragement.

I've hunted since as long as I remember and until a few years ago used the same gun with whatever 3006 ammo the hardware store had.

But in the last few years, I started buying additional guns and recently acquired my first loading set up. And until very recently, had never shot at a proper range with a good set up.

I don't want to shoot paper as a passion, but want to build accurate hunting ammunition. I've conducted a few ladder tests, but grouping is very similiar for every load. This is mostly due to my shooting ability. Because it is a hunting application in a hunting rifle, (3006 husqvarna in this case) do I simply take the max load and run? Practicing along with way with my rim fires on bench rest shooting.

Is this an honest goal, or am I selling myself short?

You can do exactly whatever you like. If the accuracy of your reloads is within your expectations then it is right for you. There is a lot of silliness on the internet that raisies expectations above realistic levels and causes people to lose sleep over it. Some of the guys who spend lots of $ and time developing "the" load for hunting shoot 0.5 MOA from a bench but bench shooting skills don't count for much when you're shooting at a deer offhand at 200 yds.

Check your reloads for accuracy. Ladder testing in a sporterweight barrel might not show you anything but at least you're getting trigger practise so it's not actually wasted time. If a ladder test doesn't give results that jump out at you then do what you suggested - pick a load that is good enough and go for it. Nothing wrong with that.
 
You can do exactly whatever you like. If the accuracy of your reloads is within your expectations then it is right for you. There is a lot of silliness on the internet that raisies expectations above realistic levels and causes people to lose sleep over it. Some of the guys who spend lots of $ and time developing "the" load for hunting shoot 0.5 MOA from a bench but bench shooting skills don't count for much when you're shooting at a deer offhand at 200 yds.

Check your reloads for accuracy. Ladder testing in a sporterweight barrel might not show you anything but at least you're getting trigger practise so it's not actually wasted time. If a ladder test doesn't give results that jump out at you then do what you suggested - pick a load that is good enough and go for it. Nothing wrong with that.

Common sense reply. +1
 
I maybe should have elaborated.
I took my 3006 and loaded 180 gr speer hot cor with Varget that I upped in .5 grain increments from min to max. These were all shot over an afternoon with plenty of time between sets. Group sizes were all in that inch range at 100 yards. Factory ammo performs the same or similiar. Nothing showed any signs of pressure that I could perceive.
Given the need for practice, what is my next step? I'm guessing just practice shooting technique using this affordable combination and readjust my goals once my skills improve.

The next step will be getting Jethunters cast bullets to get a 38-55. If my reading has been correct, this could be an interesting challenge.
 
I agree with jo6, look up ocw load testing. It helps you find a tolerant load for your rifle. The method allows for pressure variations from temperature changes which helps maintain consistent year-round accuracy. Get a solid rest for your rifle and try to remove as many external variables as possible from the equation for best results. Once you get bit by the reloading bug punching paper may become more enjoyable, I also like some ar500 for 300+ yard practice. Good luck!
 
Set goal real world goals. A 500 yard deer load with your best guess at a fast opening bullet is a goal. Decent accuracy high velocity, violent expansion and adequate penetration would be a good blend. Some thought to wind-drift and retaining velocity wouldn't hurt.

The best penetrating solids at max velocity for braining elephants at 25 yards is also a goal, but with a different set of criteria. Performance (straight line penetration) is everything, and accuracy is a bit of a joke in that case. Picking your elephant load based on what shoots the best would be dumb. Picking a bullet by BC would be insane. The best bullets at the highest safe velocities is the goal.

If your goal is 1000 yard F-Class then a blend of all the long range accuracy you can get and the least wind drift possible would be your goal. Bullet terminal performance means nothing. Hitting the target means everything.

Selecting a hunting load by whatever groups the best at 100 is sort of pointless. An arbitrary accuracy standard, with an random bullet, with whatever powder giving whatever velocity that makes close range holes in paper close together may not be the best way to kill things.

Remember what you're trying to do, pick one of several projectiles that would be suitable then get to work.
 
I must have picked the wrong hobby I guess, can't hardly see that 500 yard gong, let alone think of hitting the darn thing. A lot of rest shooting I hope will be in my future, then maybe work into getting more specific.
 
Duplicating a favorite factory load at a lower price is a goal too. The point is know what you want/need and work toward it. I see people who will never take a long shot obsessing about accuracy, and people who will never shoot anything bigger than a deer picking bullets that would be better suited for a buffalo. They are probably convinced that what they are doing is somehow "better" but in reality they have lost their way.
 
Duplicating a favorite factory load at a lower price is a goal too. The point is know what you want/need and work toward it. I see people who will never take a long shot obsessing about accuracy, and people who will never shoot anything bigger than a deer picking bullets that would be better suited for a buffalo. They are probably convinced that what they are doing is somehow "better" but in reality they have lost their way.
This is why I have several rifle/cartridge combos. Hunting white tails in closed woods gets one (Savage 340 in .30-30 w/150gn interlocks), hunting them where the shots stretch out to 400yds gets another (usually an M77 in '06 w/ 150gn Hornady's). Moose in tight gets another (1898 Lee Enfield Cavalry in .303Br w/ 200gn SP from Steve Redgewell), while moose and elk over 150yds get a Savage 111 in '06 w/ 165gn Silvertips.
It's all in the matching of knowing what you want to do, what you have to do it, and how to get there.
While I don't have anything fancy, I have reached a point where I can scout 20 areas and then build 20 combos to match, but nothing is over 400yds. If you were to call me and invite me out somewhere I don't know, for anything deer to moose, then it's gonna be a Mossberg 100ATR in '06 w/180gn interlocks. This is the one rifle that hits everything I point it at.
OP, match situation with reality. I used to chase velocity, thinking it would be the end of every shot leaving dead animals. I had a dozen powders, guaranteed to squeeze the last bit of speed out of every shot. After a chip flew out of a stock, I did some checking and come to realize I wasn't doing myself any favours. Today, I use one rifle powder and work out the best group in all of them with that powder. I bring home lots of meat each year, no matter what the situation I have chosen is.
 
maybe a few of the old timers can give a newbie a few words of wisdom/encouragement.

I've hunted since as long as I remember and until a few years ago used the same gun with whatever 3006 ammo the hardware store had.

But in the last few years, I started buying additional guns and recently acquired my first loading set up. And until very recently, had never shot at a proper range with a good set up.

I don't want to shoot paper as a passion, but want to build accurate hunting ammunition. I've conducted a few ladder tests, but grouping is very similiar for every load. This is mostly due to my shooting ability. Because it is a hunting application in a hunting rifle, (3006 husqvarna in this case) do I simply take the max load and run? Practicing along with way with my rim fires on bench rest shooting.

Is this an honest goal, or am I selling myself short?

Carefull on the "pick the max load and go with it". That was max on the test equipment and could very well be over max on your rig. As others suggested look up the vid on ladder testing. From what I've read ladders shouldn't be done at less than 3 or 400 yards. I'm the same as you in that I want to build the most accurate load for my hunting rig - punching paper is part of it. A couple of hours here and there at the range beats the heck out of most off the things in the job jar anyway. The way I look at it is by loading my own, testing from a bench with a solid rest, I will know that all the variables have been taken out so that when in the field I have the confidence that my set-up is capable of the shot. All is then up to me to do my part. By stretching out the ladder you may find a sweet spot that everything consistently comes together. It doesn't have to be the fastest load. As someone else here stated - accuracy trumps speed for me.
 
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