FL sized cases will not chamber

Chuckbuster

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I have been having an issue with my .308 reloads of late. Many of them will not chamber after full length resizing...empty cases and loaded rounds. I have screwed the die in and out, a little at a time, to see if that makes a difference, but no luck. The brass in question is within spec length wise. However, as to what it was fired in and how many times...who knows? I load and fire, refill and repeat until such time as I notice cases cracking or splitting, and then toss them.

I doubt it can be a problem with almost every case, as some have been through the cycle a few times, whereas others have only been fired once or twice. Any thoughts or suggestions? I guess the quickest way would be to toss my current stash of empties and start from scratch...but I'd like to avoid that as I really do have a lot of .308 brass. So, ideas, suggestions and possible solutions are most welcome. Thanks.
 
If you've got your ram bottoming out against the die and camming over, you can't get much more full length than that.

I have a Model 94 that was always tough to close the lever on.

Long story short I tried a set of Lee dies, which someone told me were nearly Small Base spec as compared with my old RCBS generic 30-30 ones. Sure enough the problem went away.

Have you tried a small base sizing die?
 
A picture might help along with taking precise measurements of everything and comparing them to specs in a book. Is it set up like the manufacturer says, is the resizing die the correct one that is stamped in the side along with correct mandrel in the middle. What kind of length do you have in total? Is there a bunch of junk built up inside the die? Im only guessing until more info is obtained.
 
I am using Lee dies, and started out with the die screwed in as per Lee's instructions(as I always do). But I started adjusting the die in the press in response to the non chambering issue. Oddly enough, it only seems to be happening with my .308 cases. Also, while I have been reloading for many years, I'm not a tekkie, and so I'll admit that I don't know what "camming over" is...!

In regard to the die, it is the correct resizing die. However, it is a few years old, and may well be in need of a cleaning inside...? The resized cases are coming out within spec, as are the loaded rounds.
 
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1. Be sure you are using a full length sizing die.

2. Raise the ram all the way to the top, screw in die until it touches the shell holder. Lower the ram and turn die down 1/8th turn

The handle should over center when pulled all the way down. Lock die in place, try resizing a case. Try it in the gun.
 
I am using Lee dies, and started out with the die screwed in as per Lee's instructions(as I always do). But I started adjusting the die in the press in response to the non chambering issue. Oddly enough, it only seems to be happening with my .308 cases. Also, while I have been reloading for many years, I'm not a tekkie, and so I'll admit that I don't know what "camming over" is...!


Sorry... Put the ram all the way up and screw your die down tight against it. Back the ram off and give the die another 1/8 turn in or so, lock it down, and try running the ram up again. It should press against the die then, when you fully press the handle down, the toggle on the handle/ram should move past the top dead centre position, with a bit of a clunk. It shouldn't be a big clunk or require a gorilla on the handle. It's just enough to ensure that the shell plate is indeed fully compressed against the bottom of the die when you work the press.
 
I am using Lee dies, and started out with the die screwed in as per Lee's instructions(as I always do). But I started adjusting the die in the press in response to the non chambering issue. Oddly enough, it only seems to be happening with my .308 cases. Also, while I have been reloading for many years, I'm not a tekkie, and so I'll admit that I don't know what "camming over" is...!

Camming over is when the press handle continues to travel down after the shell holder contacts the die.
 
.....In regard to the die, it is the correct resizing die. However, it is a few years old, and may well be in need of a cleaning inside...? The resized cases are coming out within spec, as are the loaded rounds.

It may not cause your problem but I suspect that your sizing die is all gunked up as well after a few years. I clean my dies after each session. Remove the decapper rod and check with flash light what your die looks inside. Use Hoppes #9 or any good bore cleaner to clean your die(s). Cleaning dies is no different than cleaning your rifle bores after use.
 
Sorry... Put the ram all the way up and screw your die down tight against it. Back the ram off and give the die another 1/8 turn in or so, lock it down, and try running the ram up again. It should press against the die then, when you fully press the handle down, the toggle on the handle/ram should move past the top dead centre position, with a bit of a clunk. It shouldn't be a big clunk or require a gorilla on the handle. It's just enough to ensure that the shell plate is indeed fully compressed against the bottom of the die when you work the press.

Okay, I'm guessing that that is taken care of when the die is screwed in as per Lee's instructions, yes?

Have you tried a collet die for neck sizing only?
Yes, I have tried a collet die in the past, but as I said, I collect all kinds of brass, not just that fired in a given rifle, so I need to FL size the cases as the ammo can end up being used in a few different rifles.
 
Sorry... Put the ram all the way up and screw your die down tight against it. Back the ram off and give the die another 1/8 turn in or so, lock it down, and try running the ram up again. It should press against the die then, when you fully press the handle down, the toggle on the handle/ram should move past the top dead centre position, with a bit of a clunk. It shouldn't be a big clunk or require a gorilla on the handle. It's just enough to ensure that the shell plate is indeed fully compressed against the bottom of the die when you work the press.

Camming over is when the press handle continues to travel down after the shell holder contacts the die.

Okay, thanks. I am going to check that this evening, and give it another go.
 
I have been having an issue with my .308 reloads of late. Many of them will not chamber after full length resizing...empty cases and loaded rounds. I have screwed the die in and out, a little at a time, to see if that makes a difference, but no luck. The brass in question is within spec length wise. However, as to what it was fired in and how many times...who knows? I load and fire, refill and repeat until such time as I notice cases cracking or splitting, and then toss them.

I doubt it can be a problem with almost every case, as some have been through the cycle a few times, whereas others have only been fired once or twice. Any thoughts or suggestions? I guess the quickest way would be to toss my current stash of empties and start from scratch...but I'd like to avoid that as I really do have a lot of .308 brass. So, ideas, suggestions and possible solutions are most welcome. Thanks.

If you are sizing brass fired in other rifles the brass will "springs back" after sizing and become larger. Some times you need a small base die and adjust the die and press to cam over and reduce the case to minimum dimensions.

If you pause at the top of the ram stroke for a few seconds (count to four) you will let the brass know who's the boss and you will have much less spring back. Try pausing before getting a small base die and see if it works.

Note: I was given three five gallon buckets of .223/5.56 brass fired by our local police departments. And because they were fired in so many different chambers I full length resized all these cases with a small base die to ensure they will chamber in my AR15 rifles.

Your problem is as simple as the illustration below, your resized cases are between the blue and red dotted lines. And you need to push the shoulder back between the red and green dotted lines. Meaning keep adjusting the die downward until the cases fits your chamber.

shouldersetback_zps59bf1b04.jpg
 
Mark II explained camming over, perfectly.. Read it carefully, make sure you understand it.
And no, the instructions with dies do not usually take care of this action, because, before it will cam over it must take all the slack out of the joints in the press, that occurs under pressure. The "looser" your press is in the joints, the more you will have to turn the dies down.
Upon reading your post, I think you are describing a perfect instance where the cases need to be annealed.
Here is what could easily be causing your problem.
1) Your rifle has a tight chamber with a very minimum of head space.
2) When the case shoulder area has been work hardened, by several cycles of reloading, the brass becomes harder and when the die pushes the shoulder back, it doesn't stay back, but springs ahead when taken from the die, just enough to prevent it from going into the chamber.
The fact that some, but not all of the cases will not chamber, even before reloading, points to this as the problem.
I have had the exact thing happen with two different rifles, each of which were in 243 calibre. After annealing the shoulder area of the case, the sized cases went in the chamber with the same ease as a factory loaded round did.
So, when you have properly set the die, but the case won't go into the chamber, try annealing.
 
I have been having an issue with my .308 reloads of late. Many of them will not chamber after full length resizing...empty cases and loaded rounds. I have screwed the die in and out, a little at a time, to see if that makes a difference, but no luck. The brass in question is within spec length wise. However, as to what it was fired in and how many times...who knows? I load and fire, refill and repeat until such time as I notice cases cracking or splitting, and then toss them.

I doubt it can be a problem with almost every case, as some have been through the cycle a few times, whereas others have only been fired once or twice. Any thoughts or suggestions? I guess the quickest way would be to toss my current stash of empties and start from scratch...but I'd like to avoid that as I really do have a lot of .308 brass. So, ideas, suggestions and possible solutions are most welcome. Thanks.

Pick up a small base die. It will solve your problem
 
If I understand your post, you have loaded 308 before, with no problem. Now there is a problem.

Others have suggested cleaning the dies. I have not done this in the last 50 years, but it won't hurt.

I adjust my FL die so it bottoms out solidly on the shell holder well before the bottom of the stroke. When the die hits that shellholder, you got all the sizing action that die has. That case should fit.

If it does not, then either your chamber is dirty or the brass is so old it needs annealing.
 
Ganderite, that is correct...no problems and now, BAM! problems. As has been suggested, I am going to check for cam over, adjust if necessary and then try again. Also, I doubt it can be the chamber of the particular rifle I am using to check fit...it has only seen a few rounds due to being relatively new.
 
Ganderite, that is correct...no problems and now, BAM! problems. As has been suggested, I am going to check for cam over, adjust if necessary and then try again. Also, I doubt it can be the chamber of the particular rifle I am using to check fit...it has only seen a few rounds due to being relatively new.

new rifles have preservative in the chamber. Squirt some brake cleaner in there and clean it - just in case.

Adjust die so it hits the shell holder hard.

lets us know how it goes.
 
---------- Also, I doubt it can be the chamber of the particular rifle I am using to check fit...it has only seen a few rounds due to being relatively new.

This is exactly why it is likely your rifle has a minimum of headspace. New rifles are often pretty tight.
However, if you want to completely ignore even talking about the likely solution of annealing, forget it, I'm done.
 
This is exactly why it is likely your rifle has a minimum of headspace. New rifles are often pretty tight.
However, if you want to completely ignore even talking about the likely solution of annealing, forget it, I'm done.

No, I don't want to ignore a potential solution. I just didn't think it could be due to fouling or crud in the chamber because it has only been fired a few times. If you can elaborate as to how it is properly done, I am all ears. Thanks.
 
Annealing is a great tip, as it will also prevent neck splits from killing your brass. I hate to be the guy to tell you to go google it, but honestly there are so many ways to do it and so many good articles on it that you're better off there than having one of us go through it

Just remember - if it glows red, it's dead ;)
 
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