New to pistols, bought a norinco 1911

Markus88 said:
what about an aluminum trigger?
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Derp moment - all metal indeed. Mine has an aluminum shoe. Great for clogging fine files and stones, but not hard to fit.

RobertMcC said:
Ive been running a STI Trigger since 2005 Or since I had the frame rebuilt to STI parts.
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I've had mine in 2 different SAM guns and it was loose n jiggly in the trigger guards, and the shoe was out of true with the bow. Adjusting the tines for the pre-travel exacerbated this, so it has suffered much corrective bending. The thin bow also had vertical movement in the channels. Out of spec frames? Believe me, I'd not be surprised, but a cheap and overpriced trigger nonetheless, I respectfully opine, and cannot recommend.

Or else I just hate plastic on a 1911 ;)
 
And when you say the trigger needs to be fitted, could you go.into detail on just what aspect needs to be fitted, and how? Gun is a full size norc 1911a1. As seen in pics, standard non skeletonized hammer, etc. Bare bones.

Just want preferably a fiber optic front sight and longer trigger for my lanky alien fingers haha
 
Mark-II said:
Derp moment - all metal indeed. Mine has an aluminum shoe. Great for clogging fine files and stones, but not hard to fit.



I've had mine in 2 different SAM guns and it was loose n jiggly in the trigger guards, and the shoe was out of true with the bow. Adjusting the tines for the pre-travel exacerbated this, so it has suffered much corrective bending. The thin bow also had vertical movement in the channels. Out of spec frames? Believe me, I'd not be surprised, but a cheap and overpriced trigger nonetheless, I respectfully opine, and cannot recommend.

Or else I just hate plastic on a 1911 ;)
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Yea I got 700$ just in parts. Old STI prices. I don't notice then again I only got like a 2# trigger. My Sam I just run it stock. Minus the S.A. milspec parts because I broke the safety. So upgraded the springs.

Markus your a machinist you will see. Mainly will be tight fit and you will need to file the parts to fit the frame. No thing as drop in parts really for a 1911.
 
I only changed the trigger in mine because I was playing with ergonomics and at the time it was the only one that I could find on short instant gratification notice ;)

As for fitting the Greider(?) trigger. I compared it with my stock Ruger one and it was a few thou taller....maybe 1/32" even. So I progressively lapped it down, top and bottom of the shoe, test fitting it in the pistol many times, making sure that the bow was true in the channel - in case I was removing more from one side of the trigger than the other.

Eventually it popped into position. then I dehorned it some, since the edges of the finger pad had become sharp, polished the sides, checked and eliminated any points where it was dragging in the frame...

This was my first time fitting an oversized trigger, BTW. It's obviously not terribly difficult, since I'm not terribly mechanically inclined. I do know proper problem solving techniques, however!

There's no pretravel adjustment on mine - just the over travel. That one is easy to adjust. Install the trigger and the mag release, sear, disconnect, hammer, sear spring and pop the MSH in, but do not connect the hammer strut to the main spring. Apply thumb pressure to the hammer and trip the trigger, noting how much further it travels before it stops. Crank in the set screw until the trigger travels just far enough that the hammer will release and drop smoothly, without rubbing against the sear at any point on its travel, then back off the screw a touch for good measure, to ensure good repeatable clearance in use.

That's how I did it anyway
 
I purchased the 5" Norinco 1911 A1.

Out of the box, I had a gunsmith reduce the trigger pull to 3 pounds, which is maybe lower than you would want to go. It shot perfectly.

I replaced the awful Norinco grips with Hogue grips, available at Cabella's, nothing fancy.

Up to and including 400 rounds, the recoil spring got worse.... 400 rounds is nothing. I've worn out a recoil spring in a CZ 75B 9mm before around 4000 rounds, & the Norinco recoil spring feels like the same problem.

A friend generously has given me a few new recoil springs to try. Tomorrow at the range I'll try 20 & 18.5 pound recoil springs. My guess is I'll like the 18.5 pound spring. I've got the 20 pounder in the gun and ready to go, and at face value, the slide is awfully stiff with the 20.

As in life, recoil springs are about balance. Right now, the gun slide is slamming to hard as it recoils backwards into the gun frame. If I over correct with too heavy a spring I'll end up cycling the slide too hard forwards. I'll also be mindful of possibly jamming the gun if the heavier spring causes problems in the ejection of brass casings.

The recommendation for a 1911 gun is a 16 pound recoil spring.

I'm shooting American Eagle factory ammo, and will never be firing lower power factor loads.
 
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