In a non-chromed bore you have to remove the copper to get down to the powder fouling and get the bore clean of any corrosive residue. Wipe-out is awesome for corrosive cleanup. Cleans everything down to bare metal overnight and leaves a corrosion inhibitor in the bore. Rust dies. It's offspring dies. It's eggs die. It ceases to exist.
CZ 858 Corroded And Rusted (HELP!)
- Thread starter hghuman85
- Start date
GunsNotPuns
CGN frequent flyer
As WeaponsMan wrote on his blog a few days ago:
Your friend may have well cleaned it quite well but not inspecting the firearm for years was your error, and a greater one at that.
1.Inspect your guns on a periodic schedule. Twice a year is better than once, once a month is better than semiannually, twice a month beats that, and weekly is good if it’s practically attainable. (Don’t set your inspection schedule more frequently than you really can do it, or after a few missed dates you’ll be inclined to let it slide completely.
2.Store them in as dry a place as possible. For most people
3.Make your storage place as dry as you can. For example, here in the Mad Science Lab, we have an electromechanical dehumidifier draining into a sump hole (with sump pump, just in case), and additional rechargeable dessicant units inside the gun safes.
4.Keep lube on your guns. Oxygen causes corrosion, so keep a barrier between it and your arms.
5.Keep bare fingers off your guns. Ever notice that when the NRA Museum does a video of some rare treasure, the curator holds it in gloves? Ever notice that the guns in the museum stay in really fine shape? Exercise: 2+2= _____. Cotton gloves are OK, so are nitrile gloves. Use them once and throw them away (nitrile) or launder them (cotton). We knew a guy who used nitriles. Then he peeled them off and dropped them on the bench… they’d naturally be inside out. Next time, he’d put them on and all the skin acids and oils that had been on the inside of the gloves were now on the outside.
Repeat after us: Inspection, dessication, barrier, hands-off. Inspection, dessication, barrier, hands-off. Inspection… and all that. And remember that vintage guns need more care than the more durable (if less beautiful) finishes like Melonite and Cerakote on modern firearms.
2.Store them in as dry a place as possible. For most people
3.Make your storage place as dry as you can. For example, here in the Mad Science Lab, we have an electromechanical dehumidifier draining into a sump hole (with sump pump, just in case), and additional rechargeable dessicant units inside the gun safes.
4.Keep lube on your guns. Oxygen causes corrosion, so keep a barrier between it and your arms.
5.Keep bare fingers off your guns. Ever notice that when the NRA Museum does a video of some rare treasure, the curator holds it in gloves? Ever notice that the guns in the museum stay in really fine shape? Exercise: 2+2= _____. Cotton gloves are OK, so are nitrile gloves. Use them once and throw them away (nitrile) or launder them (cotton). We knew a guy who used nitriles. Then he peeled them off and dropped them on the bench… they’d naturally be inside out. Next time, he’d put them on and all the skin acids and oils that had been on the inside of the gloves were now on the outside.
Repeat after us: Inspection, dessication, barrier, hands-off. Inspection, dessication, barrier, hands-off. Inspection… and all that. And remember that vintage guns need more care than the more durable (if less beautiful) finishes like Melonite and Cerakote on modern firearms.
Your friend may have well cleaned it quite well but not inspecting the firearm for years was your error, and a greater one at that.
Commie milsurp gun...break it down, scotchbrite and oil, reassemble and shoot.
There's no way I'd spend the time pulling every single one of my guns out monthly. Probably not even annually. I probably have guns that haven't been touched in three years in the big safe.
Next time, just liberally apply oil and forget about it.
There's no way I'd spend the time pulling every single one of my guns out monthly. Probably not even annually. I probably have guns that haven't been touched in three years in the big safe.
Next time, just liberally apply oil and forget about it.
$900 isn't that cheap. Most accessories people add to the price aren't worth it or aren't what people want. It's like putting rims on a car. Barely increases price if at all.
A new VZ is 960 for non chrome lined or $1060 chrome lined.
Most people would pay that $60-160 instead of dealing with a used gun that might not have been cleaned perfect and has mods they wouldn't have done
It's all meh. Id say fair but not "cheap".
All the 858's over 1000 are over priced and laughable.
Dorian Gray
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
...Does it remove the blue too? Cause i could use something to take some rust off but not screw up the blueing on a gun or 2 now that i think of it....
x2, but 6 or 8.........
To each his own but this is how I'd look at that package, and I would guess this is the reaction most people would have:
$150 red dot = garbage and therefore adds nothing
$110 scope rail is so far off the bore it's in orbit and I wouldn't pay anything for that style of scope mount
$80 stock has way too long LOP and that's why they went out of style, so either I buy a replacement or run a stock I don't want
Useful components: 1 used VZ with stock I don't want, total value maybe $600
I'd pull the accessories and cut the price, but that's just me. I don't buy other people's package deals unless the value significantly exceeds the price of the components, and I either want the components or know they'll sell because they're quality parts with known value on the secondary market.
G-Man_Quagmire
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- North Delta B.C.
I hate those guys.....
Ill buy it when you give up.. and then we can see what evaporust and the dishwasher does to it. And i saw a guy talking about neglect saying that you cant neglect a car for 5 years and throw a battery in it and it works. But jurassic world taught me even if you leave a jeep for 22 years in the jungle all it needs to run is a battery and everything on tv is true.
you can strip it down and submerge either just the parts or the entire rifle / removal of stock and such in a vinegar(different types for acidic levels) solution for acouple days.beware that vinegar will remove bluing. that's the cheap route. Canadian tire has a evapro-rust that works well, plug barrel and fill up/submerge parts. if your looking for something alittle stronger birchwood has a blue and rust remover that you can use, again plug and fill the barrel leave in for 1-2 mins and then scrub up after you empty it. same with the parts. Not much you can do about the pitting. It is more then likely still a good rifle with many many years left in !!! Also the way things are going who knows if any of these rifles will ever be entering the country again, so don't get rid of it just yet!!! Or like zelly said trade it with cash for his VZ 
I do an inspection every 6 months on firearms that I don't shoot often. The inspection include oil everywhere in and out of the firearm. I even think that only one time/year could do the trick, but it's so easy and fast so.....
Wow. Just wow. So a gun that is 1000 bucks new + tax (120) so 1120 plus a brand name red dot (bushnell) and the manufacturers scope mount (vz, not ncstar) even without that stuff it should be sold for 600 used....? So used guns are worth 50% of there new value. Is that your opinion or blue book?
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