SAM 1911 9mm, anyone else get hit with brass?

actually looks like your weak had is a slight bit high and forward, but that is just my observation

I have never saw anyone use such a grip on weak had that covers so much of the trigger guard and thumb so forward usually the thumbs tip is not too much forward of the front of the trigger guard.
 
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I am not a 1911 expert, but it does not sound like an extraction issue. The case is being 100% extracted.

the issue is where it is going. the angle of the ejection is determined by the ejector. No?

If I am reading the little diagram correctly, it looks like you want to try the red profile.
 
The longer the ejector, the earlier and harder the ejection part of the cycle.
The shape and angles of the ejector nose determines pretty well, the angle of ejection out the port.
I see you have a long ejector. (nothing personal Eh!):d
The angle of this ejector nose means that the case will be directed More up, than to the side.
To adjust the angle of ejection, a bit of metal can be removed from the ejector.
In order to change the impact point of the ejector on the rear of the case.
Which in turn determines whether the case ejects in your face, or off to the side.

There is a lot of metal there to play with.
Experimenting with it, is not expensive if you go too far.:p
Ejectors are simple to replace, and relatively inexpensive.

Plus you can learn a bit about tuning a 1911 pistol.

2 cents Eh!

Last time I had a 1911 built was heres a box of parts call me when done. Back in 2004. Found with 1911s its easy to replace parts, but even more easy to screw them up.
 
I am not a 1911 expert, but it does not sound like an extraction issue. The case is being 100% extracted.

the issue is where it is going. the angle of the ejection is determined by the ejector. No?

If I am reading the little diagram correctly, it looks like you want to try the red profile.

Your right, It extracts perfect and hard...

11846645_10153556678416241_2706627395539910009_n.jpg
 
I am not a 1911 expert, but it does not sound like an extraction issue. The case is being 100% extracted.

the issue is where it is going. the angle of the ejection is determined by the ejector. No?

If I am reading the little diagram correctly, it looks like you want to try the red profile.
 
I actually went through this process with a sam. Angled the ejector... No improvement. Replaced and profiled the extractor... No improvement. I learned a lot, but finally found out that the slide was moving so fast, the brass was hitting the slide on ejection, and the speed of ejection was overcoming the redirection from the ejector. I replaced the spring with a stock kimber spring and the ejection problem has cleared up.
 
I actually went through this process with a sam. Angled the ejector... No improvement. Replaced and profiled the extractor... No improvement. I learned a lot, but finally found out that the slide was moving so fast, the brass was hitting the slide on ejection, and the speed of ejection was overcoming the redirection from the ejector. I replaced the spring with a stock kimber spring and the ejection problem has cleared up.

Thats what I wanted to hear. I took the one out of my Norc that felt a bit stiffer. I'll try it next week, Thanks.
 
Full-face motorcycle helmet.

Or file a bit off the lower front of the ejector.

Fine cut file, a bit of tape over the rail to save from slips.
I tune at the range, using this method.
You can fire a couple shots away from your noggin so as not to add to your pain (and complete disfigurement) see where the cases fly.
File a bit to move the point of contact up a bit.
Shoot and observe direction.
Repeat as necessary.
The angle can be tweaked from side to side of the ejector nose a little also. For more fine tuning.
Break the newly made corner with your file to leave a small flat where it will contact the case.

It is not an expensive part!
Don't worry....Be Happy.;)

 
Full-face motorcycle helmet.

Or file a bit off the lower front of the ejector.

Fine cut file, a bit of tape over the rail to save from slips.
I tune at the range, using this method.
You can fire a couple shots away from your noggin so as not to add to your pain (and complete disfigurement) see where the cases fly.
File a bit to move the point of contact up a bit.
Shoot and observe direction.
Repeat as necessary.
The angle can be tweaked from side to side of the ejector nose a little also. For more fine tuning.
Break the newly made corner with your file to leave a small flat where it will contact the case.

It is not an expensive part!
Don't worry....Be Happy.;)

Hardest part is marking the ejector and cutting the groove for the pin...
 
Did you notice if the last case hit your head when the slide locked back? That would take the slide return out of the equation.
Where a hat for you next session.
 
Did you notice if the last case hit your head when the slide locked back? That would take the slide return out of the equation.
Where a hat for you next session.

Nope. During firing..I need to find one without a flipped up brim...
 
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I sort of assumed it wasn't only the last case that was hitting you.... what I'm trying to say is on the last round when the slide locks back, the recoil spring weight will not be effecting the return speed of the slide.

If you pay attention to the last shot, or only load one round at a time you might be able to rule out the recoil spring as the problem.

Good luck.
 
It's not the slide flying forward, it's the speed of the slide flying back that's the problem. The casing is being removed from the chamber and pulled back so hard that it's difficult for the ejector to change the flight path. Just out of curiosity, do you see any ejector stamping on the bottom of the brass?

This is a common problem with 1911's with weak or older recoil springs. If you start to get beaned in the forehead, a new/heavier recoil sprig will likely fix the problem. It's also a cheap fix and it'll save your frame from unneccessary punishment.

(Also, limp-wristing can contribute to getting pinged lol)
 
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