Hi, I picked up a Ruger SR22 rifle in a local trade. I like it and it has the pop-up sights on it mounted on the top rail. Problem is, when I hold the front part of the receiver when shooting it tends to shift around... up to 45 degrees clockwise. I put a weaver sling mount between the receiver and the front of the rifle (on the top rail) to stop it from shifting but it looks goofy. Obviously, I don't want this and nobody wants a rifle where things (including the front sight) are moving around while you're firing! How do I fix this?
Ruger SR22 (rifle) owners... how do I stop the front from shifting??
- Thread starter fonestar
- Start date
Yes, that's what I'm talking about. Thanks for the reply but just loctite or gluing your gun together doesn't seem to be much of a solution. One drop or hit against something and it will break the loctite. I can't believe Ruger didn't think that these should be pinned together or have some type of fastener? IMHO rimfires are not and should not be any different that a centerfire rifle, they need to be solid and 100% reliable.
Is it the jam nut or the hand guard . I had a Nordic component kit , which is the kit that Ruger uses. When I would screw the hand guard on, it would screw on about an 1/8 of inch too much when tight. I just lined it up , added blue locktite and forgot about it .
I'm talking about the round tube that screws on over the barrel ( hand guard ) is that what's moving on your gun? I had two SR 22 and I used blue locktite on both . The rail screws would come loose all the time also.
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I thought the same thing when I had to locktite mine. Maybe we both got lemons and maybe it's common. But it's not the only rifle I had to use blue lock tite on. Clear fingernail polish works even better. I use it more than the locktite.
Seems like just a bad design... the handguard mating at least, not the entire rifle. You spend $700, $800 on something that's supposed to be emulating the feel of a tactical rifle and you shouldn't need to be gluing things together. Okay, I guess it is what it is... maybe I will try make a weaver-to-weaver adapter for the upper rail, something that is lower profile than this sling mount. /rant off.
Keep your blow dryer away from your 10/22 and you should be fine.
I read that many people will Locktite the barrel into the receiver on the 10/22, I was wondering if the heat from many rounds would weaken it but it must not be a problem as many still do it. Just tried it myself but have yet to put it to the test.
Locktite is great insurance for aluminum parts, you want to be sure to not strip them so you can't torque them like you would steel items. A wee bit of Locktite keeps things from getting loose, prevents any danger of over tightening, and like you say, when you want the part off, use a heat gun.
You need a special spanner wrench for that style free float rail system. I just bridged a weaver mount between the rails. Then tighten as much as I could then used a brass bunch and hammer and shocked it. Used brass punch hooked into a groove on the jam nut and hammered it tighting more.
Not ruger problem someone hasn't dl the manual.
I figure I won't need to take it off again.
But that's like complaining a ar stock is loose because the castle nut needs to be tighten. Tighten it and then carry on. I bought my sr22 chassis system second hand and I had many ar15 and free float rails so I knew you need to tighten the jam nut.
Not ruger problem someone hasn't dl the manual.
I figure I won't need to take it off again.
But that's like complaining a ar stock is loose because the castle nut needs to be tighten. Tighten it and then carry on. I bought my sr22 chassis system second hand and I had many ar15 and free float rails so I knew you need to tighten the jam nut.
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Loctite 242(blue) and 271(red) have a service temperature of 300F. 2422 is good to 650F
I'd love to see your Hairdryer do that. Proper surface prep is required for it too work.
Also it has a shelf life.
Any way that's the end of my pissing match about Loctite.
