need to improve stock

FromTheNorth

FromTheNorth

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i have this Tikka T3 Light, and I need to improve the cheek...i really don't want to resort to putting on one of those slap on cheek risers, but rather have it built in and blent with it(synthetic stock for the record). I don't really want to drop money down for a new stock so Im hoping i might find some input or ideas from others. Pictures would be great to see from what other have done.
FTN
 
I solved the issue for a year by putting a varmint stock on my hunting rifle, now I have a bell and carlson, seams to fix the issue of the cheek weld.
 
FromTheNorth said:
i have this Tikka T3 Light, and I need to improve the cheek...i really don't want to resort to putting on one of those slap on cheek risers, but rather have it built in and blent with it(synthetic stock for the record). I don't really want to drop money down for a new stock so Im hoping i might find some input or ideas from others. Pictures would be great to see from what other have done.
FTN
Click to expand...
What's the big deal with using a stick on cheek pad on a plastic tupperware stock? I could see it if you had a fine walnut stock, but ....... really?

Google "stick on cheek pad". Cost about 20 bucks, do it yourself and comes in different thicknesses.
 
I have had to add risers and LOP to all my rifles. I'll take some pics tomorrow for you. I did a "custom" cheek rest from a bolt on one on my 6.5, and added a Kydex up-down slidy one on my .338.

There are 3 T3's at my house right now, and I wouldn't hesitate to put a kydex on. They're not the prettiest, buy they're very effective, and they'll greatly improve your cheek weld and accuracy. I also added some pach-skin to the kydex rest as it is hard plastic.

If you want something that looks factory, you're gonna have to buy a new stock. Boyd's are nice, with an adjustable comb option, and great value, but it's gonna make your T3 "not-lite".

Also, don't forget that you still have to get your bolt out for cleaning.....

To add the LOP I use the Pachmayr slip on decelerator pads. Love 'em, make a nice weld to my shoulder, and soak up some recoil too. Again, not super fancy, but very functional. One day I'll have "my rifle" with a full custom or 3-way adjustable stock, but these work great for now.

-J.

Found links:

http://matthewsfabrication.com/product/adjustable-kydex-cheek-rest/

Matthew was fantastic to deal with...

http://www.accu-riser.com/accu-riser-ambidextrious-comb-raiser-cr-6000/

I knocked the left side off of the accuriser and screwed it to the stock. It comes with two different heights of rubber pads for your cheek. It's a prettier option (sort of) but less adjustable.
 
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Unless you are mounting the scope ridiculously high, the factory varmint stocks work well, and they can usually be found used for a very reasonable price. As has been previously mentioned, whatever you do, make sure that you can still remove the bolt once you are done.
 
I find that even with low or extra low rings I have to get my eyes higher. A varmint stock might be better, but standard ones need a lift for me.

-J.

addendum: nope, I just put my face on my T3 varmint, and I'm staring at the scope base!!!
 
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The GRS stocks are adjustable, lightweight, and pretty nice from what I've seen, and probably not far off on price from the bell and carlson.
 
Hmmm
For a composite stock, one made from a laminated composite/epoxy resin material.
Place a piece of drawing paper over the stock and draw the shape you want the riser to be. Take that off, cut it out and trace on cardboard. Cut that out and you have a good template. Trace that onto your stock.
Use thick masking tape and layer by layer, build up the outline of the cheek r riser to form a dam in the thickness you want the riser to be off the stock.
Cut out carbon or fiberglass cloth using the cardboard template from earlier.
Now, take a drill or dremel and put crap loads of holes or better , divots in the cheekrest area to give resin something to tooth into. Better to not puncture thru laminate, but 1/2 way thru is good.
Lay in your cloth/resin up to top of tape and then cover and force air out with some stretchy saran wrap.
Leave it for a couple days in a room 20degrees C to 30C. Then peel off saran and let it cure another day.
Sand smooth and detail. Fill any anomalies with 2 part epoxy putty.
Paint as desired.
Sounds complicated but it's dead simple.
Most guys seem so afraid to modify their mcmillans and other higher end stocks.... It's not difficult if you are at all handy, to make mods to stocks to adapt them to your personal needs.
 
Throttle_monkey1 said:
How much do you want to raise it?
Click to expand...
At least 1/2"

nowarningshot said:
Pretty sure you are stuck with one of those two options. Either one of those cheek risers or a different stock. Trying to Macguyer something on would most likely mean a new stock since you are dealing with synthetic.
Click to expand...
Im no Macguyver, and if i screw up the stock its not really going to hurt my feelings, just my wallet, but at least i'v tried with what i have.

SuperCub said:
What's the big deal with using a stick on cheek pad on a plastic tupperware stock? I could see it if you had a fine walnut stock, but ....... really?


Google "stick on cheek pad". Cost about 20 bucks, do it yourself and comes in different thicknesses.
Click to expand...
i want something better then "average". Its just my character that makes me want to do this kind of stuff. besides what wouldn't look better then one of those stick on's

Gunneegoogoo said:
As promised....

Dammit.... Why can't I add pics???

This app is finicky....

Sorry....

-J.
Click to expand...
No worries man, but thank you for your input and the links

45ACPKING said:
Hmmm
For a composite stock, one made from a laminated composite/epoxy resin material.
Place a piece of drawing paper over the stock and draw the shape you want the riser to be. Take that off, cut it out and trace on cardboard. Cut that out and you have a good template. Trace that onto your stock.
Use thick masking tape and layer by layer, build up the outline of the cheek r riser to form a dam in the thickness you want the riser to be off the stock.
Cut out carbon or fiberglass cloth using the cardboard template from earlier.
Now, take a drill or dremel and put crap loads of holes or better , divots in the cheekrest area to give resin something to tooth into. Better to not puncture thru laminate, but 1/2 way thru is good.
Lay in your cloth/resin up to top of tape and then cover and force air out with some stretchy saran wrap.
Leave it for a couple days in a room 20degrees C to 30C. Then peel off saran and let it cure another day.
Sand smooth and detail. Fill any anomalies with 2 part epoxy putty.
Paint as desired.
Sounds complicated but it's dead simple.
Most guys seem so afraid to modify their mcmillans and other higher end stocks.... It's not difficult if you are at all handy, to make mods to stocks to adapt them to your personal needs.
Click to expand...
Looks like you answered what i wanted to know. Im an amateur wood worker, certified welder, and grew up in the country on a farm were we had nothing better to do but build unspeakable contraptions...this is right up my alley thank you!

Again thank you all for contributions
FTN
 
I need to get my head/cheek weld a little higher on my T3 Hunter too, I have low Talley rings and a 2-7 X 33 scope. I think that I will buy a strap on padded contraption. I know the strap on is not the best looking but at least I can take it off if I want... Plus the padding... I am talking about my gun here okay!
 
Oh dear!!!

ATRS has some lace up cheek pieces in their clearance section. If not, try Tac-Pro, available in, and made in, Canada. Check your LOP too, it took me a while to figure out what didn't feel good, and a 30$ butt pad makes all the difference......well, most of it.
 
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