That was easy! My first glass bedding turned out great...what do you think?

kilohertz

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My trusty Husqvarna 1640 in 30-06 has been sitting on the shelf for a year now..waiting for me to try my hand at glass bedding the stock. The 2 action screws had worked themselves loose and the recoil had split the stock at the rear tang, as well the recoil lug was split. I started by using the Dremel to route out some grooves across the recoil lug and remove some material from in and around the recoil lug. I put in brass 4-40 piece of threaded rod across the split recoil lug and CA'd the wood to keep it together until I got the epoxy on it. (should have taken pics of this but forgot) I did some research on what "glass" to use and ended up choosing PC-7 2 part epoxy paste, which turned out to be a great material to work with. I could have used "acra glass" which has been around forever, but thought I would try something new. Found out it has very little shrinkage and thought it would work well. I also looked at JB weld, which would probably work as well, it's just a little thinner and would run everywhere until it set. The PC7 I found out after I mixed it, has at least an hour working time and is a thick paste with a 24 hour cure time. It doesn't run and cleans off of tools easily. I mixed up a batch and spread it all around the recoil lug and up to the front of the receiver, placed the Kiwi wax coated receiver carefully into place, and tightened up the action using the rear bolt and some spacers, in the front lug hole. It worked great. I used some vinyl tubing around the recoil lug threaded hole, and it protected the thread area and gave a nice space around the lug bolt. (waxed it as well) After the epoxy was a little tacky, about 4 hours before it was starting to firm up, I removed the bolt and spacer and trimmed a little bit around the lug hole and replaced the trigger guard and magazine cover and tightened up the bolts and let it sit overnight in a warm place to cure.

Today was the big reveal, trying to get the receiver out of the stock. Removed the bolts and I couldn't get the trigger guard off the receiver...uh ohhh. No epoxy leaked that I could see so I dropped the hinged floor plate and wiggled with equal force, the front and rear and it finally popped out. (turned out the epoxy made a nice tight fit around the lug hole and the guard had to come straight up and away) Then came the action, tapped the barrel, nothing, pushed up on the action, nothing, banged the barrel harder, nothing, still stuck, then I remembered reading somewhere, bang the stock down while holding the barrel, did that with a solid rap and out she popped! :rockOn::d I cleaned up around the lug hole and here is the result. I am pretty happy with it for my first go at it. It was pretty easy, just took a little time and thinking.

Your thoughts?

Cheers

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If it were mine I would now scrape a little clearance on the front, sides and bottom of the lug...
 
If it were mine I would now scrape a little clearance on the front, sides and bottom of the lug...

Just out of curiosity, why?
If the bedding job is good enough that there is no stress on the action, what would be gained by not leaving well enough alone? I've always wrestled with the idea of applying tape to the front, sides and bottom of the lug, but have never really bothered. With a rifle like this, that has the bolt through the lug, it always seemed to me that the only place there might be a benefit in removing bedding material would be the bottom, so that tightening the bolt makes the lug wedge itself down tighter on its tapered sides. Maybe...i dunno. I will let you set me straight if I am missing something.
 
All else being equal, it has never been demonstrated that a fully bedded lug is more accurate than one with clearance on the sides, front and bottom. In most cases it will probably be just as accurate... but a lug with clearance will never be a problem.

I don't like to have to wrestle an action out the stock or into the stock... and some lugs have edges that will shave and deposit a little material under the lug... I don't want a lug ever to bottom out...

An old Benchrest Shooter 45 years ago had me bed his actions stress free and he made a point of telling me to make sure the lug had clearance on the bottom, sides and front... it was the proven way for most reliable bedding.
 
From what I now understand, if I have it correct, is tape the bottom, front and sides of the lug. Makes sense about removing the action from the stock, as it is currently stiff, but how often do we need to separate the two?

Cheers

Once is too many if it is hard to do...
 
Once is too many if it is hard to do...

I guess I got lucky with my lug shape as it is stiff, but if I take it out square, ie equal force on barrel and action with my thumb thru the magazine hole, it comes out easy. I'll certainly keep this in mind though for my next bedding...which may be soon as I have a few to do now that I know it is so easy.

So all you newbies to bedding..just do it..it really is easy and will hopefully will improve the accuracy of the rifle.

cheers
 
All else being equal, it has never been demonstrated that a fully bedded lug is more accurate than one with clearance on the sides, front and bottom. In most cases it will probably be just as accurate... but a lug with clearance will never be a problem.

I don't like to have to wrestle an action out the stock or into the stock... and some lugs have edges that will shave and deposit a little material under the lug... I don't want a lug ever to bottom out...

An old Benchrest Shooter 45 years ago had me bed his actions stress free and he made a point of telling me to make sure the lug had clearance on the bottom, sides and front... it was the proven way for most reliable bedding.

Thanks Guntec I will be doing what you have said on my next bedding job. This is why CGN is such a great site.
Cheers
 
The join where the barrel meets the receiver can cause a lot of grief. It can be recessed slightly, causing interference when the bedding compound seats. I put a small fillet of silly putty at the interface to avoid this.
 
My forte is TR and F rifles. I bed them so that there will not be a battle to get a gun apart if needed when time is an issue and it needs to go back together with the first shot in the group. The way I bed depends on the stock material and who made it. A wood stock as shown I would pillar bed, touching on the bottom of the front lug because that is where the screw is. I would tape the sides and front of the lug. I would bed every part of the action from front to back including the sides. The action and bottom would sit hard on the pillars. I think I have some of that epoxy and I found it too stiff to use for bedding. It is VERY easy to flex an action especially one like shown.
 
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