My new Tikka T3 Hunter 30-06 100 yard group

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PlayDoh

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So I'm just trying to get a 2nd opinion on this. I know its only 3 shots and probably impossible to determine anything from it. Yet its far from the same hole group pics I've seen. I did a group of 5 earlier at around 45 yards and they were pretty much all touching. That was with some a bit more expensive ammo.
This group is with Remington Core-loct ammo, using a Lead-sled plus. The scope is a Burris 3-9 40 Fullfield E1. It came with the rifle in a package on sale deal. I wonder how much of this is ammo related, or 'normal'.

Anyone have any recommendations on factory ammo for T3's? I'm going for a Bull Moose in Northern AB and a Mule Doe in central AB.

The high and low ones were sighing in shots and one was a shot my wife took to feel the recoil. Only the 3 above the Bulls Eye were part of the group. I was aiming at Bulls and wanted 2 inch above for 300 yards

group_zpsfkfiwkk1.jpg
 
I should add the obvious that this is my first center-fire rifle. I've shot .22 since I was a kid but never used a rest and zero'ed in a rifle before this one. I've learned that not all .22 ammo is equal, as with using a rest and trying groups some brands have quite a few strays.
 
if the group is the 3 holes between the 3 and 1 then its a 1" group and you're good to go. Perfectly adequate for your first time shooting a big game rifle with cheap factory ammo. It might shoot better with other ammo and it might shoot better with someone else behind the trigger but either way, you are good to go hunting. Spend a bit more time at the bench and shoot some other groups out farther then 100 yards and get to know her.
 
Thanks Savage. I'll be reloading as soon as I can afford it. Even just looking at the tips of these cartridges makes me wish I never had to buy any.
Not to brag or anything but I'm a crack shot. I hit gophers at 200 yards when I want to test my limits. I have little doubt I can hit moose vitals at 300 yards or a bit more. Not that I plan on testing my limits with big game.

I kinda sold the farm to afford this rifle so I'll have to wait awhile to get some more ammo.

Thanks again for the reply and info.
 
Not a bad group but try a different type of ammo and you might find it gets better, my Savage 30-06 doesn't like Remington factory ammo it liked Winchester better each gun is different now I reload for it. On your led sled is that the model that has the strap that goes over the barrel in the front? If so that could be screwing with your barrel harmonics. And just a note if your 2" inches high at 100 yards your gonna be real low at 300.
 
Play Doh, your group is pretty good, especially with factory ammo. Tikka T3 rifles are not fussy about ammo. At least not in a big way like other makes can be. Brownings have always been extremely fussy in my experience.

Now you have learned two things. One the rifle was expensive but well worth the cost. Two ammo is also expensive. Time to put out some money on reloading equipment when you can afford it. The Lee hand press for around a hundred dollars including dies is a great place to start on a tight budget. For $200 you can use the brass you already have for reloading, buy the equipment/components and load up five boxes of ammo. The pay off is quick and leaves you with a whole new spectrum to increase your accuracy and enjoyment levels.

Your vertical stringing is often indicative of a load that needs a bit more powder or needs the bullet to be seated closer to the leade. It may also be a symptom of stock/shoulder placement inconsistency or sloppy rests.

Tikka T3 rifles are no longer the dogs they were once thought to be. They never were but people didn't like the composite stocks ton the Lite models and thought they were cheap. The introductory prices on them were low as well. New stainless rifles for under $600 taxes in. That has certainly changed. Same goes for Savage rifles. They still are for the most part an economy priced rifle but they shoot like lasers if the operator does their part. To bad they are so fugly.
 
Thanks a lot BearHunter. Lots of good info. I've looked into the Lee presses and dies just need the bullet, primer, powder and other supplies I'll need, knowledge. It looks like I might as well grab reloading gear right away, since it doesn't look like I'll spend any more then I would buying factory ammo.

I wish I could shoot 5 boxes a day lol.

Can either of you, or anyone advise me as to how I should sight in for 300 yards? I'm pretty sure I'll be up near FtMcMurray for Moose first so I'm not even 100% sure I should be set for 300 yards. Maybe that's something I shoul ask in a new thread.
 
PlayDoh said:
Thanks a lot BearHunter. Lots of good info. I've looked into the Lee presses and dies just need the bullet, primer, powder and other supplies I'll need, knowledge. It looks like I might as well grab reloading gear right away, since it doesn't look like I'll spend any more then I would buying factory ammo.

I wish I could shoot 5 boxes a day lol.

Can either of you, or anyone advise me as to how I should sight in for 300 yards? I'm pretty sure I'll be up near FtMcMurray for Moose first so I'm not even 100% sure I should be set for 300 yards. Maybe that's something I shoul ask in a new thread.
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I've got a hand press you can have, for what it's worth.
 
Wow. Very generous of you Bartledan. Looks like your in B.C? And your deceased, lol. I just did a quick google and checked them out, since I wasn't sure what a hand press was. Looks fairly small, and might be cheap enough to mail.
 
Best way I have found is to zero for 300 first and then check to see where you hit at 200 and 100. There is not such huge differences shooting closer as there is shooting farther away. Example would be a .308 drops about 4-6 inches from 100 to 200 yards (depending) but its only about 1-2 inches high at 100 if zeroed at 200. So what would you prefer to compensate for 1-2 inches or 4-6 inches?? Myself 1-2 inches wont make a difference on a moose 4-6 could and 13 inches definitely will. A quick google look at 30-06 ballistics and factory loads can drop up to 13" from 100 to 300 yards. That's a big guess when looking through the scope at 300 yards for me. I am no expert here just trying to help you out.
 
gwes2003 said:
My tikka shoots very well with federal fusion in 165 and 180 grain. Try that stuff, its a great bullet at a good price. Even the cheap winchester from wallmart gives me 1" groups at 100y. I'd strongly recommend getting rid of the lead sled.
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I'm returning the lead sled today ironically, but I'm curious as to your reason? I read it's hard on the bedding, but I'm just going to use my bipod and sandbags.
 
Thanks a lot Barnard. Makes sense to me. I'm going to have to try and find a fairly flat 300 yard stretch now, which isn't as easy as I thought it would be. I've tried to pick the brains of my hunting friends and uncle but it's impossible to remember everything or know to ask about the things you don't even know you need to know, lol
Plus everyone's so busy.
Much appreciated Barnard and everyone for the help.
 
gwes2003 said:
Yeah Ive seen guys crack stocks using a lead sled. From what Ive read it doesnt allow the recoil to properly transfer out of the stock or something like that. More importantly it doesnt allow you to get used to the recoil and feel of you rifle.
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I think there are a few things to consider, here.

1) Don't use too much weight in the sled.

2) I'd rather have a stock break in a lead sled then in my flesh face.

3) getting used to the recoil and feel of a rifle can be "getting a horrific flinch trying to sight in with a broken scope".

The lead sled has its place. Confirming setup, sighting in.

Especially if you're doing 5 rifles! :)

Cheers
 
Game isn't killed by shooting groups, its killed by putting one bullet, preferably the first out of the barrel, into the vitals of the game animal. Your bullet holes are close to the center line of the target, and that will serve you well in the field. None of those rounds would have missed a target larger than a jack rabbit, but the more shooting you do from field positions, the better you'll get, and the more confident you'll become. Pick a brand of ammo you like, and buy as much of it as you can afford. Shoot and record your performance and the conditions you shot under, including wind, light, and temperature, in addition to the rifle and load. It won't be long until you have a reference that you can fall back on for years to come.

When you fire at a live target, shoot from the most stable position (read lowest position) that will provide you good visibility of the target. When you press the trigger, cycle the action as hard and as fast as you can with the butt of the rifle in your shoulder, don't lower the rifle to admire your handiwork, until the target is down and unable to get back up.

Predetermine what you longest shot will be, and try to arrange some shooting at that distance to see if your expectations are realistic. Figuring out bullet drop at moderate ranges is easy, estimating wind drift is tough. Despite this, shooting high is a common mistake once a guy gets off the manicured range with it's known target distances, and he gets out in the field, and has to estimate range.
 
The ballistics calculator on the winchester site is handy for seeing how things change as you select different zeros. http://ballisticscalculator.winchester.com/ Just select center fire rifle and the type/weight of bullet your going to use. Then you can select your sight in range on the slider. If you don' have access to a 300yd range, you can see in the data were the bullet should impact at 100yds and sight in accordingly. Your mileage may vary but it should be close. Hornady also has a tool but is a little more work.

PlayDoh said:
Thanks a lot BearHunter. Lots of good info. I've looked into the Lee presses and dies just need the bullet, primer, powder and other supplies I'll need, knowledge. It looks like I might as well grab reloading gear right away, since it doesn't look like I'll spend any more then I would buying factory ammo.

I wish I could shoot 5 boxes a day lol.

Can either of you, or anyone advise me as to how I should sight in for 300 yards? I'm pretty sure I'll be up near FtMcMurray for Moose first so I'm not even 100% sure I should be set for 300 yards. Maybe that's something I shoul ask in a new thread.
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Wow. I never would have guessed a 12"+ drop in 100+ to 300 yards. That complicates things big time. I wish I had a range finder, or one to use for a few days to try and get better at guesstimating.
It's interesting when you go to a Football game the 110 yard field looks like it's half a mile long, and when you walk out 100 yards it seems more like 200' or so. Odd.

How much does shooting downhill or up hill effect trajectory? With shooting a .22 for 25+ years I know it's a factor. I feel like I need a line of credit again to have everything I need to go hunting.

Speaking of spending more $. Can anyone advise me on the 50th anniversary Lee Kit. Looks like I might grab that when I can afford it. All I'll need is Dies, then the bullets, primer, powder. And the other dozen things I don't know about, like 'lube'?
 
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